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Discussion Starter #1
I have my Zuke in the shop for ignition timing and high idle, and some rough running occasionally. So they called today and said the CE bulb was removed, which I wasn't aware of since I bought it used. I'm a little surprised I hadn't noticed it not illuminating when I turned the key, but whatever. He said the code they got appeared to be EGR related. I'm not clear on whether they were or weren't able to get the exact code since the bulb was burned out, or how he was able to get the code. Anyway he called later and said the code he was getting was not affecting the driveability of the car, but that the cause could be a clogged intake manifold, or a clog in the head, or the intake gasket could have been put on a little crooked blocking the holes. Just curious what any of y'all make of this? And what could clog the intake, or the head like he mentioned? I thought it was just air coming in?
 

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The EGR valve recirculates Innert exhaust gasses (can not be burned) into your intake in order to make the ratio of burnable air and fuel going into your cylinders more fuel rich. It does this to cool down the cylinder temperatures and reduce NOX emissions.

The way the EGR valve gets its supply of exhaust gas is through a small passage between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. It can become blocked up from a build up of carbon deposites that coke the passage, or it can get blocked off by a miss fitted manifold gasket, or RTV formagasket squishing over the hole.

Take the intake manifold off and replace the gasket, run a wire down the passage to the exhaust manifold... I believe a coat hanger was mentioned in another post on the subject.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'll put that on my list to do next. I replaced the exhaust gasket, but didn't do anything with the other side of the engine. I won't be suprised to see some RTV over the hole you mentioned. The PO or their mechanic used that stuff on everything requiring a gasket and did not use it sparingly. LOL
 

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Unless you have a California-model Samurai there is not an ECM code that is specifically EGR/NOx related. Do you know what the code was? 51 or 54 maybe?

Izook engine light link

The EGR when operating properly will lower NOx emissions and combustion chamber temperatures as well as POWER. The EGR value will open when the engine water temperature reaches 150 degrees and stays open until the transmission is put into 5th gear, and then closes again. Hence the reason for the 5th gear switch on the transmission.

Here is another link on this board discussing the 5th gear switch

After reading this Wiki article on Exhaust gas recirculation and if it is correct, it seems like the EGR operation on the Samurai is bass ackwards.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Haptown,
I;l ask the mechanic today when I pick it up, what code he got. I'm pretty sure this isn't a CA model as if I recall when I bought it, the carfax showed in originally titled in VA. But I"ll find out. Good point.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unless you have a California-model Samurai there is not an ECM code that is specifically EGR/NOx related. Do you know what the code was? 51 or 54 maybe?
The mechanic told me it was a 51. So are you then saying that the 51 means more than just EGR specifically, or are you saying that this is a CA car? What is the 51 for, anyway? (I'll just search it on here).

Besides that, the car runs great now that the tires are all balanced, the high idle is where it should be, and he did the ignition timing. However, it still does this crazy backing thing when I decelerate. It's really annoying. I can't wait to get that figured out.
 

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From the Izook link I posted

51 EGR System (California Only)

The 90-92 FSM Supplement from acksfaq.com (what a great guy!) should have more information on EFI emissions.

The "crazy backing thing" - did you mean bucking? If bucking, you might want to check your rubber mounting points for your drivetrain such as the three transfer case mounts (especially the passenger side front one), your transmission mount, or motor mounts.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
LOL, yes the crazy BUCKing thing. Too funny. Actually someone else did mention before to check the motor mounts and I totally, totally forgot about that suggestion.
So if this is a CA car, is there anything other than exhaust that can be changed to make it less CA and more VA, less weight, etc?
Thanks Hap!
 

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Here is the link to Suzukiinfo.com that contains the TBI supplement for EFI. This site exceeds its monthly bandwidth allowance frequently so it might not be available this late in the month. The pdf is 125MB zipped and 161MB unzipped so it is a very large file. If your are unable to download it, I might be able to export parts of it to my web page so that it can be downloaded, but might not be able to do it until weekend.

Here is the page from the pdf for testing for ECM error code 51. It appears that there is an extra sensor for the California trucks according to the diagram but I'm not familiar with it. This is only one page of it, will extract the whole emission section later.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Haptown, I'll try and get the supplement, see if it's available this late in the month as you said. And on the bucking issue that everyone suggested checking motor and tranny mounts on--I checked the motor mounts and they seemed fine. The engine didn't move when gunning it, but I also didn't put a jack under the engine to see if one side lifted before the other like someone else here had suggested doing a few backs back. However, yesterday I decided to finally start replacing all my body bushings with the poly ones I had ordered a couple months ago but never got around to doing. I haven't even done all of them yet, just 6 so far but I swear the bucking has stopped. I didn't have a chance to take it on a good long drive but this time when I let off the gas, it just decelerated without any bucking at all at slow speeds like it used to do. The old bushings were in pretty rough shape, but I can't believe that this may be the solution! I'll keep you posted after driving it more if it worked, or if it was all in my head...
 

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When one of the transfer case mounts was broken (front one on the long arm), it would only do when it was sufficiently warmed up. I am guessing that it really wasn't noticable until all the other rubber mounts became softer and looser when hot.

I created the pdf for the EFI emissions but having a problem posting it since I am limited to a 20MB file size and it is 54MB unzipped. If you need the rest I can try to break it up into small files.
 
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