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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Automotive tire Wood Wrist Rim Eyelash

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What are these plugs for? What type of plug is that also. One on the left and right behind headlights.
Automotive tire Wood Wrist Rim Eyelash
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Hand Military camouflage Automotive tire Motor vehicle Gesture


2008 GV 2.4l manual.
 

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If you want to know what they are for, thats for the HID option thats not fitted on your car. You have either halogen standard or halogen projector low beams.
 

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Hi
2008GV.JB424
I'm fairly certain that is the Fog Light wiring
ta
 
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Yep, that green plug takes the same switch as the swifts( except the backlit in them is usually white.) Pull inner wheel liner plugs for fogs should be taped up nicely behind the bumper. Ali express has them, ill see which French ones also fit, can't remember if they were Renault or Peugeot but they interchange if you can't find the GV ones
 

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If you're looking for a set of Fog Lamps, I have a set off the 2016 version slightly different facia but I reckon the lights would be the same. While I'm at it I also have a ECB type 2 Nudge Bar and 5 OEM 18" Alloy rims with Dunlop tyres only done 3,000K's. I'm in Bankstown, Sydney NSW.
Thanks
 
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If its a 3G not a 4G then they will fit. The 4th gen are different
 

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Switch

NZ$ 4.43 46%OFF | Car Auto Front Fog Light Switch Button Fits For Suzuki SX4 Swift Grand Vitara 2006-2012 Black

Lamps (several versions, i have the halogen ones) these are a starting point

NZ$ 28.54 40%OFF | For Suzuki Grand Vitara Alto Swift 35500-63J00 A Pair ABS Front Bumper Fog Light Daytime Lamp With Halogen Bulb Car Accessories
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Switch

NZ$ 4.43 46%OFF | Car Auto Front Fog Light Switch Button Fits For Suzuki SX4 Swift Grand Vitara 2006-2012 Black

Lamps (several versions, i have the halogen ones) these are a starting point

NZ$ 28.54 40%OFF | For Suzuki Grand Vitara Alto Swift 35500-63J00 A Pair ABS Front Bumper Fog Light Daytime Lamp With Halogen Bulb Car Accessories
Wouldn't it be possible to use those fog light wires taped to the front bumper and modify them to put some quality LED spot lights?
 

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No, not compliant under Australian regs as they come on with the park lights so in fog you can run on those only and have all your marker lights on. Don't even think about trying to feed them from another source as they go thru 3 different wiring looms. I thought the same and decided fitting an independent loom kit was simpler.
I fitted 2 x 75W led driving lights with an independent loom fed from battery and fitted an additional switch beside the fog light switch
People ask why I have 2 fog switches. The fog one lights up at night, the driving lights one doesn't so un knowing drivers can't turn the driving lights in accidentally
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No, not compliant under Australian regs as they come on with the park lights so in fog you can run on those only and have all your marker lights on. Don't even think about trying to feed them from another source as they go thru 3 different wiring looms. I thought the same and decided fitting an independent loom kit was simpler.
I fitted 2 x 75W led driving lights with an independent loom fed from battery and fitted an additional switch beside the fog light switch
People ask why I have 2 fog switches. The fog one lights up at night, the driving lights one doesn't so un knowing drivers can't turn the driving lights in accidentally
Excellent and great advice. Thanks.
 

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Wouldn't it be possible to use those fog light wires taped to the front bumper and modify them to put some quality LED spot lights?
I know this is not what you asked, but I'll point it out, for those who may, at some point, consider it - fog lights and spot lights are VERY different things - they look alike, they both illuminate the area in front of the vehicle, but they do so in different ways, and if they are good quality units (not all are), they are designed to do different tasks.

Fog is essentially water, tiny droplets of moisture, suspended in the air, the light from your headlights is reflected off of these droplets, back to your eyes and can dazzle you - to reduce this probability, fog lights are designed to have a wide beam with a sharp horizontal cut off, ideally they will be mounted low down which is why you'll usually find them below the bumper level. Mount them higher up, closer to the driver's eyelevel and you increase the probability of the light being reflected back into the driver's eyes.

Spot lights come in different styles with different beam patterns, spot beams, driving beams, they are designed to reach further than your headlight high beams, and if mounted too close to the ground, the beams will hit the ground rather than be projected into the distance to do the job they are designed to do.

Fog/spot lights are an area where quality makes a huge difference, I've seen paired fog/spot lamps (both in the same housing) that were nothing more than H3 bulbs behind lenses (yellow for the fog, white for the spot) with no attempt at any sort of reflector. With the advent of white LEDs, the market has been flooded with "cheap Chinese" LED lights, with the manufacturers making all sorts of claims. Any LED fog light that has the LEDs visible behind a flat polycarbonate "lens" is not a fog light, it's a "flood" light, because it lacks the horizontal cut off that fog lights need to have.

Spend your money wisely, rather than a fancy LED, look at the "name brand" products, Hella, Cibie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I know this is not what you asked, but I'll point it out, for those who may, at some point, consider it - fog lights and spot lights are VERY different things - they look alike, they both illuminate the area in front of the vehicle, but they do so in different ways, and if they are good quality units (not all are), they are designed to do different tasks.

Fog is essentially water, tiny droplets of moisture, suspended in the air, the light from your headlights is reflected off of these droplets, back to your eyes and can dazzle you - to reduce this probability, fog lights are designed to have a wide beam with a sharp horizontal cut off, ideally they will be mounted low down which is why you'll usually find them below the bumper level. Mount them higher up, closer to the driver's eyelevel and you increase the probability of the light being reflected back into the driver's eyes.

Spot lights come in different styles with different beam patterns, spot beams, driving beams, they are designed to reach further than your headlight high beams, and if mounted too close to the ground, the beams will hit the ground rather than be projected into the distance to do the job they are designed to do.

Fog/spot lights are an area where quality makes a huge difference, I've seen paired fog/spot lamps (both in the same housing) that were nothing more than H3 bulbs behind lenses (yellow for the fog, white for the spot) with no attempt at any sort of reflector. With the advent of white LEDs, the market has been flooded with "cheap Chinese" LED lights, with the manufacturers making all sorts of claims. Any LED fog light that has the LEDs visible behind a flat polycarbonate "lens" is not a fog light, it's a "flood" light, because it lacks the horizontal cut off that fog lights need to have.

Spend your money wisely, rather than a fancy LED, look at the "name brand" products, Hella, Cibie.
Correct and well said. I was hoping to just use the fog light wiring, wire in a fuse and some new plugs and put a pair of 5" to 7" spot lights on the front as the wiring already goes into a switch in the cabin.

Ill install proper fog lights in the designated area and use the existing connections which is great and super easy.

Than, I'll just have to make or buy a new wire harness for either a 40" to 45" flood/spot combo lightbar for the roof or the 5" to 7" spotlights.

My only concern is how difficult it will be getting the on/off switch wiring through the firewall.

Thoughts?

I have successfully installed after market lights on two previous cars going though rubber grommets on the firewall into the cabin. Major pain both times to do it.
 

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Even though I have an LED bar on my roof rack, I generally advise against it, experience has taught me that what roof mounted lights do is illuminate the dust hanging in the air directly in front of the windscreen - I'd rather have them mounted at head lamp level.

If you do mount them on the roof try to get them far enough back that they don't shine directly onto the hood/bonnet - that can cause a very distracting (and tiring) glare.
 

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Correct and well said. I was hoping to just use the fog light wiring, wire in a fuse and some new plugs and put a pair of 5" to 7" spot lights on the front as the wiring already goes into a switch in the cabin.

Ill install proper fog lights in the designated area and use the existing connections which is great and super easy.

Than, I'll just have to make or buy a new wire harness for either a 40" to 45" flood/spot combo lightbar for the roof or the 5" to 7" spotlights.

My only concern is how difficult it will be getting the on/off switch wiring through the firewall.

Thoughts?

I have successfully installed after market lights on two previous cars going though rubber grommets on the firewall into the cabin. Major pain both times to do it.
Easy peasy
If its a manual its a bit more skin removing but in the automatic undo the bolts holding the fuse box in by the brake booster, lift up, it will pivot on the loom and give access to the main loom grommet assembly thru the firewall under the brake booster ( manuals will have thsts damned clutch slave there which gets in the way a bit)

Cut cable tie on the rubber grommet at the loom, prise/ pull / swear it off the plastic round bush on the firewall and slide back along the loom a few mm. Plastic bits clipped thru the firewall, you can leave it in place, but I removed it to make re fitting the rubber boot easier. Real obvious how it all goes together once its out. Just fiddly but oh so neat once its back together
Run new wire thru firewall and thru rubber boot, reassemble and cable tie the boot to waterproof it all. I ran my 2 switch wires as a pair ( I used heavy twin tru rip like the new battery chargers have on them) and fitted a plug up by the booster so I can isolate that wire to the cabin and saves trying yo thread 40,000 feet thru a tight rubber grommet. Run 2 sets so you have a spare for something else in future. Up past booster, along firewall following the other stuff thats there across yo the battery where I located my relay.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Even though I have an LED bar on my roof rack, I generally advise against it, experience has taught me that what roof mounted lights do is illuminate the dust hanging in the air directly in front of the windscreen - I'd rather have them mounted at head lamp level.

If you do mount them on the roof try to get them far enough back that they don't shine directly onto the hood/bonnet - that can cause a very distracting (and tiring) glare.
Easy peasy
If its a manual its a bit more skin removing but in the automatic undo the bolts holding the fuse box in by the brake booster, lift up, it will pivot on the loom and give access to the main loom grommet assembly thru the firewall under the brake booster ( manuals will have thsts damned clutch slave there which gets in the way a bit)

Cut cable tie on the rubber grommet at the loom, prise/ pull / swear it off the plastic round bush on the firewall and slide back along the loom a few mm. Plastic bits clipped thru the firewall, you can leave it in place, but I removed it to make re fitting the rubber boot easier. Real obvious how it all goes together once its out. Just fiddly but oh so neat once its back together
Run new wire thru firewall and thru rubber boot, reassemble and cable tie the boot to waterproof it all. I ran my 2 switch wires as a pair ( I used heavy twin tru rip like the new battery chargers have on them) and fitted a plug up by the booster so I can isolate that wire to the cabin and saves trying yo thread 40,000 feet thru a tight rubber grommet. Run 2 sets so you have a spare for something else in future. Up past booster, along firewall following the other stuff thats there across yo the battery where I located my relay.
She is a manual. Thanks GV2013. Running that extra wire for the future is just tops!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Even though I have an LED bar on my roof rack, I generally advise against it, experience has taught me that what roof mounted lights do is illuminate the dust hanging in the air directly in front of the windscreen - I'd rather have them mounted at head lamp level.

If you do mount them on the roof try to get them far enough back that they don't shine directly onto the hood/bonnet - that can cause a very distracting (and tiring) glare.
Thanks mate, appreciate it.
 

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I've noticed that LED lights seem to reflect back more from moisture in the air than halogen beams. I thought tat first it was just old degenerated eyeballs, 'cos I've noticed more dazzle from oncoming traffic whilst driving at night the last few years. But shooting at night has showed my halogen light to be much better in misty conditions than a new fangled LED even though the LED is much brighter & better in clear conditions. I suppose dust might show the same reflections? I have little experience of dust in Wales... mud yes: dust not so much!
 

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I agree, halogen light is more diffused so less backscatter, led is more coherent ( think incandescent vs laser for the purpose of discussion) I find that even with my hella led drl on in mist the back scatter is surprisingly large. Mine are mounted between fogs and headlights in terms of level and are surprisingly well, aligned leaving nice rectangular blobs in the ground at night ( obviously not used at night but its how I set them to meet regs here.)
Turn on normal headlights so drl go off, and much less back scatter.
My big driving lights, great at night if there's no dust or mist. They are mounted beside the main headlights. Learning years ago that you can't see Jack if a light is shining from behind you.
 
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