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I recently rebuilt my samurai tired, wore out 1.3L factory motor with new 9.5 to 1 pistons bored .20 over and new Iskenderian cam. New rings, bearings, carburetor, headers, exhaust and new wires, plugs, cap, fuel pump, fuel filter, the works! The truck ran okay except for the running rich on the Weber 32/36 through the break in period about 500-700 miles. Now for the bad stuff:

I use to have a Weber 32/36 carburetor and replaced to a new Weber 38 hoping this would correct my running problems but it hasn’t. The truck will run at an idle but as soon as it is put in a load situation it dies. So I said OK it has to be a fuel issue, took the tank off cleaned and check for flow, replaced the fuel filter and everything was good. Thinking it was a vacuum leak I did the carburetor cleaner test and no air leaks. I have checked the timing, replaced jets, tried electric fuel pumps, fuel regulators, and nothing works it still dies and runs rough! I did notice the vacuum advance was not working so I put a new vacuum advance on the distributor and still no good it still runs rough and dies under load. I recently decided to install the new MY-Side Harley Carburetor update and just do away with the Weber and still the same problem HELP ME THIS SAMMY IS GOING TO PUT ME IN AN EARLY GRAVE or EMPTY Wallet (wait; my wallet is empty after all this!):unsure:
 

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Does it die when you rev it up all the time or just when you are trying to drive it? Can you rev it up under the hood without it dying? I know this sounds stupid but I had a rear pinion bearing lock up one time and everytime I would let out the clutch I would go a little bit and then die, but it sounds like a fuel issue, maybe check fuel pressure on new pump you installed to see if it is getting the proper amount of fuel. Sometimes you can get a bad fuel pump from factory. Maybe vacuum problem like stuck open EGR valve?
 

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what was your indicator that it was running rich on the 32/36? Did you make sure to change out your plugs when you swapped carbs to the 38?

Make soure your carb has a vacuum advance line. If you ran the vacuum advance off of manifold pressure, you would be running with your timing advanced all the time (including idle) If you have your idle adjusted or timing adjusted at idle with your vacuum advancing your dist off of manifold pressure, then you need to readjust your timing and idle speed. Just leave the vacuum advance capped off for now.

Some of the 38's DO have vacuum advance ports. if this is the case then I'm barking up the wrong tree.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does it die when you rev it up all the time or just when you are trying to drive it? Can you rev it up under the hood without it dying? I know this sounds stupid but I had a rear pinion bearing lock up one time and everytime I would let out the clutch I would go a little bit and then die, but it sounds like a fuel issue, maybe check fuel pressure on new pump you installed to see if it is getting the proper amount of fuel. Sometimes you can get a bad fuel pump from factory. Maybe vacuum problem like stuck open EGR valve?
It only dies under load, stitting in the garage it revs fine. If you go in reverse its fine. I will try a new pump hopfully thats it. I will keep you posted! Thanks!
 

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what was your indicator that it was running rich on the 32/36? Did you make sure to change out your plugs when you swapped carbs to the 38?

Make soure your carb has a vacuum advance line. If you ran the vacuum advance off of manifold pressure, you would be running with your timing advanced all the time (including idle) If you have your idle adjusted or timing adjusted at idle with your vacuum advancing your dist off of manifold pressure, then you need to readjust your timing and idle speed. Just leave the vacuum advance capped off for now.

Some of the 38's DO have vacuum advance ports. if this is the case then I'm barking up the wrong tree.
Black some, eyes burning, bad, bad fuel economy 12-14 mpg running 235's. I have put in three new sets of new plugs; one on the new rebuild, one on the 38 and now one set on the myside 2! I always ran the advance line off the line indicated on the Weber port and now on the front of the myside, never off the manifold...way too much vacuum and this can damage the seal in the unit!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
:huh:Well replaced the pump and it still runs like crap, I'm about ready to tear back into it to see if something is wrong in the head or something???
 

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I have the same problem except I'm running 32's and I just put in a 1.6 8 valve that was running perfect put new timing belt on it and gaskets and put the weber 32/36 on it. now it won't run. if i put the transfer case in 4low it will go just fine even if I dont lock the front in.
 

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if it's giving you the same exact issue with 3 different carburettors, then it's most likely not the carbs or the fuel delivery. What is your timing set at? With the Isky cam you may need to adjust your ignition timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
if it's giving you the same exact issue with 3 different carburettors, then it's most likely not the carbs or the fuel delivery. What is your timing set at? With the Isky cam you may need to adjust your ignition timing.
Thats where I'm looking now, it acts like a bad cam. I have set the timing all over the place with no luck! It acts like a bad lobe. I will keep you posted. The only way it will crank now is to keep the starter going and going and it will finally take but wont stay running.
 

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check compression. That should tell you if you have a valve opening at the wrong time or not. Is there a different valve lash setting on the isky cam or is it the same valve lash?

@theblister: It sounds like you may have got your valve/crank timing synch off when you changed the belt.
 

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Thats what we thought at first so we took it apart and double checked this past weekend everything is in time and all the marks line up. When we changed belts we didnt turn anything and just slid the new one on. I did have to use the sami dist. So does it need to be wired like the 1.3 or the 1.6? I'm guessing the 1.6 8v since thats the cam we used. We've doubled checked everything. I'm taking it next week to a guy who is the local guru when it comes to zuks so hopefully he can figure it out. I'm just tired of looking at it sitting been almost a year now!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
check compression. That should tell you if you have a valve opening at the wrong time or not. Is there a different valve lash setting on the isky cam or is it the same valve lash?

@theblister: It sounds like you may have got your valve/crank timing synch off when you changed the belt.
Nope; the compression on just a couple of starter turns is around 160 on all cylinders; that was my first thought........
 

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Discussion Starter #15
aren't the 1.3 8v and the 1.6 8v the same firing order and dizzy rotation? They should both be wired the same I think.
yes, they are, I checked and the cam is lifting on the correct rotation and duration and all looks good there, it is acting like the old vapor locks of yesteryear! Back to the fuel issue. I think what I will do is make me a temp fuel sorce directly at the carb and see what happens.
 

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Long shot but could your Catalytic Converter be clogged?
definitely something to look at if your fuel mixture has been off. That will stop up a cat.... assuming you still have one.

hope you get it figured out. The fuel can with the pump feed directly sucking out of it will eliminate a few possible issues.
 

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definitely something to look at if your fuel mixture has been off. That will stop up a cat.... assuming you still have one.

hope you get it figured out. The fuel can with the pump feed directly sucking out of it will eliminate a few possible issues.
Well, I did the fuel can test with no luck; I did another compression test and just turning the engine over with the key for about 10 sec. for each bank; cyl #1 was 60 PSI
cyl #2 was 75 PSI
cyl #3 was 75 PSI
cyl #4 was 80 PSI

Does that sound anywhere near the ballpark????
 

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that's a pretty significant difference from your previous numbers. If that's your actual compression, it's too low. Too low to even get it started. If it was an exhaust lobe on the cam it would affect one cylinder. If all cylinders are equally as low, all of the lobes would have to be out of time on the cam. I don't think the valve timing changes with the isky cams. From what I understand, the grind is equal on both the intake and exhaust and shouldn't require advancing or retarding the cam gear. Do you still have the original cam? have you checked and verified that it hasn't slipped a tooth on the timing belt? loose tensioner?
 
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