[Suzescudo90]

OK, just out of curiosity, I started googling around. I come across a Subaru JDM thread, where the guy wants to change the existing JDM PCV to a US one. From the photo, I cannot tell if the location is the same. He finds that the housing is different, and needs to change the housing to adopt to a US PCV.

PCV Valve swap JDM / USDM <<SOLVED>>

How do you get this out? I'm assuming iys a press for on the JDM? The USDM has 2 tabs on the upper piece which makes you think it's a wrench. But 20mm nonfit and 22mm no fit. Must be a 21mm I dont have. Also there is no room for the wrench head to operate do to the shape of the bell housing. I...

www.subaruoutback.org

Is it possible that this type of housing is what is used in all of the JDM engines? That if you have access to a JDM catalog, it will show the differing PCV? That perhaps the PCV was removed as it was impossible to find a replacement in the US??

Hmm this is an interesting trend! If my JDM engine doesn’t have a place to put a PVC value like the one in this trend would it be possible to fit some sort of inline PCV value because I’d like to avoid trying to remove that barb on the value cover? It’s just a little annoying not knowing which parts of the engine are from the original vehicle and which parts have been swapped, like the EFI could be from the original vehicle and need a PCV value to work properly? Whereas the vehicle the swapped engine came out of may have never needed a PCV value.

 

[Bex]

Although the jubilee clips aren’t original they’ve definitely been tightened enough around those barbs to ensure there was no air leaks when we were investigating the problem. The problem was there when I bought the vehicle and the previous owner couldn’t figure out the problem.

The point about the jubilee clips is just that someone has been into this circuit before you. As you might have a way to identify the engine from a past owner, perhaps you could also get some info as to whether any modification was done to this circuit, or what, if anything, they found when they first went in there.

 

[fordem]

Whereas the vehicle the swapped engine came out of may have never needed a PCV value.

The early Escudo apparently used two different styles of PCV valve - see post #18 for the details - where you might run into a challenge is if the intake manifold and the cam cover are from different engines and neither has the fitting for the PCV valve, one will need to be modified.

PCV / High idle Escudo/Vitara 1990 G16a 16v

Hi lads, looking to get some advice on a problem I’m having with my escudo/vitara. As shown in the photo I’ve two hoses labelled one PCV and the other I’m not sure of (hoping someone can tell me if I’m correct in saying that is the PCV and not the one labelled with the question mark). Anyway...

www.suzuki-forums.com

 

[Suzescudo90]

How ye lads, so I have a little bit more info for ye now. So the guy who sold the engine to people who done the swap just said it was a “1.6 vitara” but I was also able to get some info from the people who done the engine swap and they said…
"That engine came from an identical jeep same colour and everything...that manifold came with the engine but was identical to the original....the throttle body thats on it now is the original one off that jeep as the one that came with the engine was faulty".

 

[fordem]

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say that the folks who did the swap either weren't as observant as they might have been and are mistaken, or, they haven't a clue and blowing smoke up your rear.

 

[turboguzzi]

I guess "same color" = identical mechanics, fuel, ignition and emission systems.... 😇

 

[fordem]

Used JDM engines generally aren't in the vehicle when they're shipped out of Japan, in most cases the seller never sees the vehicle the engine came out of.

 

[Suzescudo90]

Yah I’m not sure which is the case here, and I wouldn’t like to make any accusations, I’ll just have to go with what I have in front of me now and that’s a PCV without a place to put a PCV valve. Also in fairness a good few escudo’s were imported into Ireland, so it’s highly likely that the replacement jdm engine came out of a vehicle in Ireland.
Anyway I think I’ll just try to fit the below PCV valve (which you showed to me fordem) in line in the hose with some clips and see if that solves the problem.

Also is there anyway of checking for air leaks like bex was suggesting, especially around the cam cover.

 

[fordem]

You need to bear in mind that you could possible have the cam cover without the fitting for the PCV valve as well as possibly the manifold without the fitting for the PCV valve - so check that first.

 

[Suzescudo90]

How ye lads, so I’m finally getting back to ye now. So I purchased one of the above PCV valves (the top one on fordems post) and installed it inline between the cam cover and intake manifold (see photo). Now once the engine has warmed up it drops down to 600rpm which is a little on the low side. I know for a fact that the throttle position was adjusted a lot by the previous owner trying to adjust the idle down. Anyway a mate of mine and I tried to adjust it back up to 800-900rpm but it seems like the ECU is possibly fighting it because it wants to stay at 600rpm. Any thoughts? (Also in the meantime the entire cylinder head has been off and skimmed, pressure tested and fitted with new gaskets and new frost plugs , one frost plug inside in the cylinder head developed a small hole during a spell of cold weather and caused the oil and water to mix)

 

[Bex]

It might be an idea to calibrate the throttle position sensor, to make sure that it’s locked down prior to reaching 500 ohms. When you’re doing the test, you’re putting a feeler gauge in by the throttle lever and adjusting the idle screw. After the test, you run the engine, warm it up, and then readjust that screw to a steady 800 rpm idle. I don’t know how you were trying to adjust the idle….there are some screws that shouldn’t be touched, and it’s usually a good idea to try to diagnose issues with the engine at factory spec.

 

[Suzescudo90]

This is the only thing we adjusted. I might have a go at calibrating the throttle position sensor during the week so, you may have to talk me through what exactly i need to do in detail because I’m not overly familiar with the process. Just on a side note do you know if the escudos/vitaras have an idle control valve? Thanks!

 

[2013GV]

Thats the throttle cable adjustment, should be set so there's free play in the throttle cable. Nothing at all to do with the idle.

Take the cable off the bracket and remove it from the snail and check idle.

 

[Bex]

Post #10 here gives you the TPS calibration for the 16v idle switch:

1995 Suzuki Sidekick Idle drops when the engine is warm

Hi all, new to the forum. I have a 1995 Zuki Sidekick 4x4 1.6L 16 valve. 129K miles . Lately the engine idle will drop down to 2-300 rpms but only when the engine is warm, sometimes it will die. Ive read a few things in the forums that seem similar but nothing Ive done has worked. Im leaning...

www.suzuki-forums.com

There is some confusion about ‘idle control valve’. While I’m not terribly familiar with the quirks of the Escudo, there is an idle speed solenoid (which is an electrical component) and an ‘idle air valve’ (which is a mechanical, wax pellet valve that only works during cold start). If the latter was not working properly, then you would have a higher idle rpm once the engine is warmed up (as there would be a vacuum leak). If you look at this photo, the ISC is right in the center of the photo. If you pinch the vacuum line going to it, your idle should drop:

Personally, would undo whatever ‘adjustment‘ you did to try to raise the idle, and do a TPS calibration. You might also consider checking to see if the MAF is dirty (can be cleaned with CRC or a specific MAF cleaner) or check for a vacuum leak between the air filter and the MAF, which would be indicating to the ECU to provide less fuel.