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Discussion Starter #1
I got a new drivers door on the weekend, got a few Q's before I put it on. Not a panel work guru at all, so any advice appreciated:

- can I turf the original door rubbers or are they rare as hens teeth? Is there a rubber kit available?
- the pins on my door hinges are a bit hows your father (bleeding rust from these points ike a mofo). Can I just replace these pins or is it easier to replace the whole hinges?
- how do I get the glass out?
- how to get rid of the sticky tar stuff sealing the interior panel to the door? I've scraped most of it off, can't lay paint until its completely gone though.
- are the hinges secured with Locktite or something of higher strength?
- for the interior panels: where to get the fixings that secure the interior panels to the door?
- best way of rustproofing the inside of the door panels?

Also I got some general body work questions:

- Killrust: do I apply this, wait a week or two and then sand it off again before priming a panel? Not sure if killrust is a 'coat' or a temporary application. Not sure if it has to come off before I hit it with primer.
- What is the panel gap filler stuff? Is it just silicon, or something else? Can it just be removed with a wire wheel or is there a solvent I need to use? What's the easiest way to getit off?
- priming a panel: do I need to get the whole panel back to bare metal before priming, or can I just deal with the problem sections? Keeping in mind I plan to respray the whole vehicle on the other side of winter, and want the usual problem areas rustproofed as well as possible.
- also when to reapply silicon stuff? I'm really keen to seal up the gaps between the folded metal work (the bonnet is a good example). Do I prime the panel before sealing with the silicon stuff? Or does primer go over the top of silicon? And another Q - will paint stick to silicon? Last Q - is silicon the best filler or can you recommend something else?

- is primer in a spray can OK, or is primer applied via a compressor and spray gun waaay better?

Too many questions in one post I know, but any answers are appreciated. Might have a few more as I get stuck into sorting my panels out.

1,230 Posts
New door rubber is available so if the old stuff is in bad shape you can ditch it. If your hinge pins are bad, it's usually easier just to replace the whole hing

e. The rust is most likely started eating into the hinge bracket. Hinges aren't very expensive but they are a pain to remove.

Suzuki uses some kind of thread lock that was given to them by satan herself. To take off hinge screws, (and most other mounting screws using the same large philips screw head,) it's best to use an impact wrench, or grind a deep solid groove on one edge and use a small sledge or maul hammer with a flat blade drift punch, or flat blade screwdriver to tap it in a counter clockwise direction to loosen it.

Should be able to remove any hardware and unbolt the glass from the lift bracket and pull it out the top of the door. Remove the guide clips in the window's side channel so you can pull it out of the channel as you lift it up.

Door tar should wipe off with acetone.

New panels should come with body panel clips. If you are making your own, check out the different body panel clip options at your local autoparts store. Plenty available on-line as well.

Best way to rustproof the interior is to paint it with rustoleum enamel. You can use undercoating or rhinolining for heavy wear areas, but if it's inside the door with a panel covering it, there isn't a lot of wear and tear so paint is usually fine.

Rust killer:
remove dust with a soft wire brush
thoroughly vacuum the surface
rinse away any soluble salts (from winter de-icing chemicals or marine environments) with water
degrease with mineral spirits
paint it on, leave it on and paint over it when it's dry.

If you want a smooth finish and the rust has blistered and pitted the area, you can grind/sand the rusty metal flush,
Prep it following the above steps,
paint it with rust killer, let it cure, then fill any pits left with body filler, sand it flush again,
Prep it again,
paint it with rust killer again, wait for it to cure and paint it.
Any exposed rust has to be coverd by the stuff or it doesn't work. It seals the oxidized area preventing moisture and oxygen from penetrating the rust deeper into the metal and prevents the spread of rust to surrounding painted surface metal.

Painting, for small areas paint cans are fine. For large areas and panel work, you want to use a spray gun, either compressed air or airless.
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