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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks.
Getting P0400 code. I pulled EGR valve, cleaned it out well with break cleaner. Did the same with the passage where the pipe comes in at the bottom. Lots of crud. I removed the pipe from the block and cleaned that out. Put everything back on. Cleared code. Drove for 100 miles or so, code's back now. I wonder if maybe I need to check the EGR valve itself maybe it's not opening right. Can someone tell me how to check it? It's electric, I think I can back probe it somehow and listen for a click? Let me know if anyone has any experience with this issue.
Thanks!
1998 Esteem 1.6L G16B engine
 

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I wish my web site was still up it actually covered this...

Anyway...

Take a long skinny flat bladed screw driver and stick it into the hole on the intake manifold that the EGR Valve connects to, you should be able to push it all the way through the hole and hit the wall on the other side of the manifold, if you cannot hit the other wall the passageway is plugged up with carbon and oil that has turned into a thick sludge.

Spray some carb cleaner in there and keep twisting the screw driver while you are pushing on it, eventually you should be able to drill through the crud once you have punched a hole through it spray a little more carb cleaner in there and then scour out the hole with a test tube cleaning brush until the hole is completely clean.

Aside from that remove the exhaust manifold from the engine and make sure that the EGR passageway in the manifold is not plugged up, and re-check everything that you did before.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Jim, thanks for the reply. Do you think on top of doing what you said, Seafoaming the engine might also help? I've been checking Seafoam out for a while now but haven't done it. What do you think? Anyways has experience? Thx

1998 Esteem 1.6L G16B
 

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I don't think Seafoam would help with this by the time it made it into the exhaust passage ways it would have already been vaporized and incinerated in the combustion chamber.
 

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Give your EGR valve some time to free itself up.
Mine took a month or two to work properly after cleaning.
This was on my 1.6L that eventually rusted out somewhere and was scrapped.

Last fall on my 1.8L (I ordered the gasket months in advance in preparation for the servicing) I removed the EGR to clean it before the code would appear. Well worth it, it was full of crud. Used the carb cleaner and a small bottle brush to clean the holes on the engine and the EGR.

Most welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Brit, thanks for your input! I also cake across Scotty Kilmer's video about P0401 code, which is probably pretty similar to mine P0400\
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgfT3kuY8lc

Jim, I think I remember your old site with Esteem info. Was yours blue sedan, or was it white. I think last time I checked that site was in 2007 if my memory serves me right. You had some great info there. Why did you take the site down?

thanks again folks!
1998 Esteem 1.6L G16B
 

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After sleeping on my response I believe it was longer for my EGR to free up after cleaning. So keep the faith, could have been 6 months.

For those who have not cleaned their EGR, obtain the gasket, and clean away. It is not a matter of if, but when you will get the code.

Scotty rules! However in his disc brake instructional video on YouTube he does not mention that you must lube the slider pins. In my region omitting that procedure will be a problem, a must do item.
 

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Gvigorus...

Yes I had the 1999 1.6 blue sedan Esteem, that was an awesome car and the most reliable car that I ever had, but it was totaled when someone was being chased by the police and blew through a stop sign and I slammed right into the side of them, bent the front end of the car, shattered the windshield, set off the air bags, and I was sore for days.

My website no longer exists due to I parted ways with Comcast and the website went with it, but I still have the entire website backed up on my hard drive I just need to get it re-hosted somewhere else.

I will be adding a whole new section for it covering the 2002 1.8 Esteem also, when I get it re-hosted I will post something here on suzuki-forums.com
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Guys, I wanted to clean out the EGR tube also. That's the one that goes from under EGR to the block in the back correct? Are there other EGR tubes somewhere besides that one?
Thanks!
1998 Esteem 1.6 G16B
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Jim, that's sad what happened to your old Esteem. Likely you're okay, that's what matters! My first Esteem wagon was also crashed, hit and run. The front end was destroyed and I had to sell the car. I'm back though with another Esteem wagon and really enjoy it. Jim, definitely tell us when you put your site back online. It's a shame to have all that useful info hiding on your hard drive;)
 

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Gvigorus,

Yes it is sad what happened that was a good car that had a lot of miles left in it, yes I am fine but thats just the way things go sometimes.

And yes it is a shame to have all of that useful info sitting on my hard drive where no one can get to it, having all of that useful information is what made me want to create the website in the first place so that I could share my experiences on how a particular repair procedure went like where the "Mystery Bolt" was hiding, or "To remove this bolt you will need this tool and you will have to jack the engine up six inches.", things like that.

But regarding your engine... Anything that is blocking the air flow to the EGR valve and from the EGR valve back into the engine will cause the fault code to come on, and I believe that there is a little passageway on the exhaust manifold that goes from the 4th cylinder's exhaust port to the little tube that eventually goes up to the EGR valve so you will want to check that too to make sure that it is not plugged up.

If you need help getting the manifold off let me/us know.

There is a way to electronically test the EGR valve, I don't remember exactly what the readings were and that computer (with all of the website info) is currently in storage but I believe that this is the test procedure that I came up with.

This is the EGR valve's electrical connector as if you are looking directly into it, the pins are not actually marked with numbers I just gave them numbers for the test procedures:

----------
| 1 2 3 |
| 4 5 6 |
----------

Pins 1 and 3 = 300 ohms.
Pins 1 and 2 = 150 ohms.
Pins 2 and 3 = 150 ohms.

Pins 4 and 6 = 300 ohms.
Pins 4 and 5 = 150 ohms.
Pins 5 and 6 = 150 ohms.

Pins 1, 2, and 3 have no relationship what-so-ever with pins 4, 5, and 6.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Jim, thanks for the wire up. I got a set of nice small nylon brushes from Harbor Freight. Got some carb cleaner, took off EGR valve, the pipe that was going down to the head. Sprayed everything liberally with carb cleaner, soaked and brushed really well everything with the little skinny brush. Including the passage way going through the cyl head into the exhaust manifold. I checked the EGC resistance too, all checked out. Dried everything and put everything back together. Car idles nice, runs nice so far, code hasn't come back, but i drove only about 5 miles after the cleaning. We'll see later.
I also found this site explaining electronic EGR connector pinout:
EGR VALVE (STEPPER MOTOR) CHECK
I had about 23 Ohms between pins. Functional test also sounded okay per the site above.
Will let you know how this does for me. Hope not to see the P0400 again! At least now I know passages are clean.
1998 Esteem 1.6L G16B
 

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I don't remember what my test readings actually were but they were probably something close it that.

You should have a good idle the EGR valve doesn't open at idle if it did it would turn into a very bad vacuum leak and could cause the engine to stall, it only comes on when you are going fast and then suddenly let off the gas pedal.

Right when you let off the gas pedal the a/f mixture in the cylinders get really whacked and a lot of un-burned gas goes out the tail pipe, so they developed the EGR valve to try to capture some of the un-burned gas and send it back through the engine again.

Its great when it works right but a big pain in the but when it malfunctions, the best way to test it is to drive it around and get the engine all the way warmed up and then find a long straight road somewhere and get it up to 50mph and then let off the gas and just let it coast back down to about 20mph, do this five times in a row if its going to fail it should happen during one of the times that you are coasting.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, P0400 came back again this time followed by P0136. I actually noticed the check engine light came on when i suddenly left gas pedal and car started coasting down. Just like you described Jim. So, does this mean maybe the EGR valve isn't opening up right? After all I have cleaned out all the EGR passages very well, so it's probably the valve itself. Replace valve or try something else here?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Started carefully looking through all service material. Found under folder Data\99500_60G20_01E
file: 99500_60G20_01E_V2.pdf
page 106
Title: DTC P0400 EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION FLOW MALFUNCTION
sheet header: 6-1-80 ENGINE GENERAL INFORMATION AND DIAGNOSIS (G13/G16 ENGINE WITH WU TWC)
That's exactly what i was looking for! This is the service procedure to tackling this annoying code.
Thanks to all
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Checking TPS my wiring is like this:
P - Pink
Gr - Grey
G/R - Green/Red

So looking at the disconnected harness, mine is:
_________________
| G/R | P | Gr |
_________________

that's from left to right Green/Red, Pink, Grey

but the service manual shows different pinout:
________________
| P | Gr | G/R |
________________

Maybe manual is wrong? How's your plug on G16B engine?

MAP and EGR valve checked fine according to the procedure. working my way through it....
 
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