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I am wanting to put a lift on my samurai that I just bought and I would like some help from you guys that know lifts. I am an older guy that cant take the bouncing around but would like to run 31s under my new toy. I am also putting a 16v 1.6 in it so I need to figure that in. It will be used primarliy as a street vehicle. So what lifts and styles would you recommend for a good soft stable ride??
Thanks
Mark
 

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spring under axle YJ spring conversion. It's a soft ride and very stable. Gives you enough lift to clear the 31's easy.
 

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Baratacus,

Could to explain a little more about this lift? I also just purchased my first Zuki and my friend keeps telling me that we just need to weld new mounts on the axles and move them under the spring and that will be me another 2 or more inches. Is that what you're talking about or something totally different?

Thanks,
David
 

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Ok, please forgive for my ignorance here, but I'm just learning :huh:

After asking the prior question I've gone out and done some reading and finally figured out that two common lifts for the Samurai appear to be the SPOA and increasing the lenght of the shackles. Since I only want to lift mine about 2" which is better? The shackles sure look like they would be a lot less work, but easily isn't always the best avenue, so what are the trade offs?

Thanks,
David
 

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Lifts are a popular subject and much discussed, as you've discovered. Every possible configuration, from mild to wild, has been discussed here and on the other popular boards/forums.

The stock springs are VERY stiff. For 2" of lift , I chose OME springs (Old Man Emu -- ~1.5" of lift & noticeably softer), and a small amount of added lift from replacement heavy-duty shackles. You get only half the lift from every added inch of shackle length. So my 3/4" longer shackles get me 3/8" of additional lift. Users report that longer shackles tend to reduce stability, so I chose to stay with the smallest possible increment, as my Zuk spends a lot of time on the freeway. New, soft shocks were the order of the day as well. I got my parts from Petroworks. There are other popular configurations as well (YJ's and RUF). Edit: Sway bar needed to be removed as well. Noticed a litle more sway on the street, but manageable.

I was able to step up to 29" x 9.5" tires with the added lift. In my state (CA), it is possible to be cited for tires that project beyond the fender flares. It's rare, but some jheeper acquaintances have been the recipients of this kind of CHP attention. 9.5" tires remain barely within the stock fender flares. 31" tires would be 10.5" wide and would certainly project out. Wider tires call for wider rims as well, and the increased unsprung weight of tires and rims can impact the freeway ride comfort. Everything has its price. Transfer case gearing is commonly lowered for the larger tires, up to about 31". Eventually, OEM parts start breaking from the additional stresses and swaps to non-Suzuki drivetrain parts are needed.
 

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DWCARR: The spring over axel is a quick easy way to lift it. You will pick up 2 or 3 inches. The ride is still going to be just as stiff with the stock springs. and even using a stock length lift spring like the Old man emu srings are going to be stiff. (not as stiff as stock though)

The way to get a softer ride like 2Zwudz is talking about is to go with longer leaf springs. THat requires relocating your hangers and either getting drop shackles or extending the frame. Spring under axle Leafs from a Jeep YJ are going to get you a couple inches of lift over the stock springs. Putting them Over the axel will get you about 5 inches of lift beyond the stock height.

A shackle lift is the easiest and dirtiest lift you can do. Like merlin said, you only pick up half of the height of the extended shackle. So to get 2 inches of lift, you would need 4 extra inches of shackle. That perches the entire weight of your vehicle precariously on very long shackle arms. You would also need to disconnect the sway bar to do this and would make it even more unstable. Shackle lifts should be subtle, and if you do an extreme shackle lift then you should use reinforced shackles, and a pan hard bar to keep the axles located in the center of the vehicle. without a sway bar or panhard bar, on long shackles, the axel tends to wander around on you.
 

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I just did a shackle lift 2" on mine. worked fine need longer shocks and sway bar disconnected. Use good reinforced shackles and it works fine for most and it took only about 45 mins for everything[ I have a lit to use]. I noticed a little more sway on the street with sway removed but not much. I used monroe shocks that I looked up on a chart fronts were 5753 and rears were 31000 I am pretty sure. they are long enough without having problems with the up travel.:cool:
 
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