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Discussion Starter #1
So today trying to rush home for my daughters solo choir performance, I tried to pass a semi. Had a GOOD stretch of open road leaving a light, so I hit it. I no sooner got about half way up the truck, and a car came around a curve. I pegged it! I rapped up 3rd to 5K, and then hit 4th. Barely gaining ground, I ended up cutting off the semi (who of course wasn't about to let off the gas to let me around) just as the oncoming car moved over to the emergency lane. Yea, I ended up being one of those douche bags I normally cuss out. Pissed me off bad.

So! It's time for more power. I was saving for a full lift, but it's going to have to wait.

I've been looking into the engine swaps out of curiosity since I bought the Zuk...but haven't justified anything till now.

I've looked into the different carbs, and besides the GSX carb, I think that most are a waste of money as in my mind the Zuk accelerates more than adequate to about 50. But then it just falls on it's face.
From what I've read about the GSX600 carbs it's great top end results. But from what I've read it's over a grand for that conversion.
So for that matter or cost I'd rather just go with a full engine conversion.

I had also thought about a simple and small turbo install. 4-5 lbs boost max. Shouldn't be too hard on the factory internals, but again, the crap ass stock carb would have to go. One of the carbs actually comes with a fuel pressure regulator, which would need to boost referenced.
But low boost shouldn't be too hard on the engine.

All in all, I just want to achieve some better top end.

The 1.6L 8V seems to be the best option. But what is the best one to get? I thought i read that it can be from different years and makes.

Also, I would LOVE to go FULL carb, and can the ECM. Is that possible with any carb set up? Or is that pipe dreams?

Thanks!
 

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anythings possible, how deep is the wallet? you could ditch the ECM, get a wolf unit and a carb and go from there, whether they have an ignition map for your engine is another story, but a standard curve should work.
Wolf units are fully customizable for open or closed loop, with or without injectors, or for carbs and crank angle sensors only. Cheap (ish) way of getting something working if you are building a hybrid, or an off road toy, no reason why it wouldn't work for you, assuming emissions isn't an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So am I reading articles right? If you go with anything besides the 1.6L you are pretty much stuck with an automatic?

Over the weekend I was really digging into the idea of a 4.3L V6 swap. (dime a dozen at the local pick and pull) But realized that I was only reading about TH350 transmissions mated to them. I don't want an automatic. Period.

So does that essentially limit me to the 1.6L swap?
 

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The 1.6 16V is a very good swap, around 50% more power, stacks more torque and its a much better spread of power - foot down and go. Keep the stock 16V ECU it will give the best drivability and fuel economy.
 

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I would not recommend large $$ just to pass a semi faster.. Just understand this and don't try it again with this truck.
 

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I have been batting around the idea of a low pressure turbo for quite a while. I use a 16v 1.6L which is much better than the 1.3 power wise. I decided against a turbo. I felt the need for more power because I sit on 35" tires.

It's not exactly a bullet proof engine, its gloriously light weight but I would not tempt a turbo since I like to see how far away from people/services I can get. The fear of something going wrong in the middle of nowhere is a factor. Without forged internals I decided to just be happy with its output. Considering it's size and weight it is actually pretty decent. I do know that there are some options out there for getting more power from the 1.3 but the 1.6 16v is already in a good state of tune. I think if I went back to a 1.3 it would be virtually undriveable with the mods I have. Also the 16 valves and EFI improve driveability considerably. I actually get pretty decent mileage for the setup I have.

I recommend a 16v 1.6 as the weight and size are comparable, it wont destroy the drivability or offraod balance as a V6 has been said to. An aftermarket turbo setup wont do any favors for reliability or longevity anyway. For a boost in power the 16v is great, the swap is very well documented and parts readily available.

I have been keeping a spare 16v engine/wiring harness/ecu laying around in the even that I get another Samurai. I would do this conversion again immediately if I got another one.

If I ever get a street oriented Samurai I'm going to do a nasty little Mazda street ported rotary turbo though.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, the Zuk falls on it's face power wise no matter how you look at it. I've been having a hard time accepting the lack of power, and trying really hard to look past it. I've always been a firm believer in having power available when needed. The semi just solidified that belief.
It doesn't boil down to being ABLE to pass FASTER...Had the other car not been coming, I could have cared less about how fast I got around the semi... I WAS passing it. But anytime lack of power puts you in harms way, you address it. No differently than if you find your brakes aren't stopping you fast enough, you (SHOULD!) look into upgrading them.
Or for most of you here...if your gears don't allow you to off road the way you want, or your lift, or your transfer case, or your tire size..you justify better mods. It's all relative.


Boxcar, I actually did read your whole thread. And that's VERY interesting. I looked on Craigslist to see if anything was even remotely local. Didn't find one for a good 100 mile radius. Which I found ironic as I used to have a 260Z and I found (still can) all kinds of parts on CL for those!

Again, I'm not looking to make monster power. Give me 30 more HP and I'd be happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I actually came across that one last night. Sent an email for info.
says it requires 92 octane. At our elevation, 91 octane is premium. Hmmm...
But will wait to hear what he has to say.

Annnd I'm assuming the rebuild kit is in response to the description of "lotsa miles"? lol...

Thanks Boxcar.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
MON or RON? LOL... I had to honestly google that to understand WHAT you meant! ;) My engine ventures have never taken me down the scientific side of fuel.

Well, I don't really know. Being that the guy also lives in Colorado, I would assume (I know, I know...) that he is buying maybe 100 octane gas somewhere and cutting it with 97 -91 octane. Or buying 91 octane and adding booster to it.
I haven't heard back from him yet so I don't know anymore about it.
 

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He's probly running an A-87 close chamber head from an L-16 with flat top pistons.
10.5-1. Will run fine on 94 . as long as it's in tune.
Let me know what he comes back with.
 

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Excuse me. I ment that it will run on 91 octane.
Was a long day yesterday.
Its all that sea air in Oregon, it rots the brain :lol:
 
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