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Discussion Starter #1
Hi forum. I recently purchased a 87 sammy, ratop, didn't come with AC. My plans was to save up, wait till spring, then step 1. VW 1.9D swap. 2. SPOA with 31" lift. 3. DIY front and rear bumper. 4. DIY EXO rollcage...
But the previous owner was an dumba$$, took the oil filter off, and drained as much oil as he could, then put new filter on, filled it back up without checking the dipstick, 4+cans of oil, and blown the headgasket. I was hopping it'll hold with the off the shelf miracle products to hold it off till then...but wasn't as lucky as I thought I was! it just got way worse, started to come out of the exhaust manifold, white smoke, pancake smell...etc, made it home with multiple stops every 1/4miles or so to add more water...
So when I got home I decided to just see how bad it is...3days later the engine is in my living room, in thousand pieces, due to my ADD and OCD, went got more tools, a case of carb cleaner, and some wire brushes, scrubbed till you can eat off of it! now just waiting for some parts to show up, before I put everything back.(fingers crossed, never took an engine apart)
Here's a problem I can't figure out, the right side(passenger) of my sammy' lights-running, fender marker, and turn signal(front and rear) aren't working, used my meter, found no short! took all the grounds I can find, sanded it down, used new screws...nothing! next took my steering wheels off, took apart the control box, cleaned it, regreased...nothing! so, here I am.
 

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If the previous owner really did put in four quarts, it would have been ok. A little low, but the 1.3 only hold 4.8 quarts. It would have been less than a quart low. Not the best, but not fatal.
Are you going to check the head and block for flatness? Good chance one, or, the other is warped, since you blew a head gasket.
Did you check BOTH fuses for the running lights?
Suzuki splits up the head lights and the running lights into two fuses for each. Right and left sides..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1. Does 1 fuse control the whole side? also front and left? the continuity checked out all the way to the signal switch, thats why I'd taken it out, cleaned it, and regreased it.
2. He never took the drain plug out, so I think theres more then 2 extra quarts left in the oil pan, with 4 quarts after that...!?
 

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When you turn the lighting switch one click (running lights) power is supplied to three 5 amp fuses in the fuse box - left side, right side and interior lighting (dash lights, cabin light, etc - and license lights). I'd start there and follow the power, into the fuse? out?
I think the turn signals are on a seperate curcuit with a 10 amp fuse.
 

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Lights

Here's the simple diagram...


Because of the way the circuit is configured you already know a couple of things. The switch is good (working) - because it's turning on the left side. And, as it should turn on the right side thru the same wire, the problem is somewhere from the R/B input to the fuse box on out.
Some thing's been missed, if you actually did have continuity from any of the right side lights(+) to the switch, they would turn on.
To simplify, I would suggest concentrating on just the right side front marker - solve it, you solve the others. Be methodical.
By now you've probably:
a.) already identified which 5 amp fuse is for the right side - simply unplugging each fuse in turn to see what else goes out.
b.) checked that fuse - by putting it into the left position and they still work.
Next, with the switch off and your 'known good' fuse in place, check for continuity at the input R/B and right side output R/G wires just outside of the fusebox to see if the boxes connectors (fuse and wiring) are good.
If that checks out, dismantle the front side marker light, remove the bulb (it's good right?) and check the sockets ground to chassis for continuity. Also check sockets positive to chassis for continuity(short) just to be sure it's not. Then, run a long jumper wire from the right side fuse output - out the door and across the hood - and connect it to the front side marker lights positive at the lights connector (unplugged from it's normal positive wire). When switched on it should work, if it does - you've got an open in the harness somewhere.
I'd be interested to know the results. And please, something a little more informative than "no dice".
 
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