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Hi Guys, when my engine is under load (going up hills) the tappets are really noisy :confused:??? is it easy to adjust tappets and if so,How?? all advice would be greatly appreciated thanks:)
 

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It's an easy adjustment with a feeler gauge on a cold engine. I have no idea what it means that they're tapping under load, though, meaning if that's indicative of another problem. I just know how to adjust them. Hope that helps a little. Go to Ack's FAQ and download the FSM. It gives instructions.

edit: I may be mistaken--I was thinking of the valve lash adjustment that I did on mine. I don't know if that's the tapping you're referring to.
 

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valve lash adjustment is when you adjust the clearance of the valve stem and the tappet. Adjusting them is really easy, but it's a lot more involved than checking to make sure your timing is not too far advanced or the oils not breaking down. Those are also leading causes of the "ticking under load" symptom.
 

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Yeah I just adjusted mine after replacing the TB and valve cover gasket while I was in there. I can replace or fix things, but don't have extensive knowledge about what causes things to do what they do to diagnose a problem. Other than obvious things. :-0
 

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98 Suzi 1.6-16 valve top end chatter

Greetings and salutations. I picked up my Suzi one week ago and noticed the noisy top end when test driving it. I liked it regardless of the noise, thinking that I could fix it when home. Someone on this website said to set the valve lash at .006 intake and .007 exhaust, when cold. All of the intake settings were correct, four of the exhaust were .006 and one was .004 (thinking this is the one that was making all the noise). After the adjustments the engine still made a racket, but not as bad as before. I did an oil change using 5W30 synthetic. I realize the synthetic will enhance the noise factor but I'm sold on synthetics. I'm thinking of adding some Lucas oil stabilizer which I use in my other two vehicles. One of those vehicles is a 93 TBird with a 3.8 and approximately 400K on it. Would anyone have any suggestions as to how I can make it less noisey or maybe this is just something that a 16 valve engine does. Thank you in advance for any help.

Mike near Kirkland Lake:)
 

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Shouldn't be the oil if you're using 5w30 synthetic. Could be the oil FILTER, you aren't using a Fram Oil Filter are you? Also check your timing to make sure it's not too far advanced.
 

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Shouldn't be the oil if you're using 5w30 synthetic. Could be the oil FILTER, you aren't using a Fram Oil Filter are you? Also check your timing to make sure it's not too far advanced.
BARATACUS....I'm ashamed to admit it, but when I did the oil change I did use a FRAM as I could not find what I consider to be a good one, namely PURUOLATOR or DELCO (made by Purolator). When I start the engine you can barely hear the chatter, then after a minute or so it becomes somewhat louder. I tried to get an oil filter from the local GM dealer, said he hadn't sold one in over a year. Will check the timing though and order a new timing belt kit and water pump. Thanks for your input.:)
 

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The frams have been know to break down and release little cardboard pieces of filter material into your engine. They also block up quickly and then the internal bypass valve is activated which drops oil pressure and circulates your oil without filtering it. I just get my oil changed at the quicklube place for 20 bucks and save myself the hassle. They DONT use fram and they have a free top off policy between oil changes. (never needed it, but it's there if i do)

At least running synthetic will help keep it clean a little longer.
 

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The frams have been know to break down and release little cardboard pieces of filter material into your engine. They also block up quickly and then the internal bypass valve is activated which drops oil pressure and circulates your oil without filtering it. I just get my oil changed at the quicklube place for 20 bucks and save myself the hassle. They DONT use fram and they have a free top off policy between oil changes. (never needed it, but it's there if i do)

At least running synthetic will help keep it clean a little longer.
I agree with you. I read an article some time ago by a fellow who conducted his own testing of fifteen different manufacturers of oil filters and the Fram filter was nowhere near the top. I picked up a Delco (Purolator) this morning and I'm going out to put that in and put in a litre jug of Lucas Oil Stabilizer (non-synthetic) and see what happens. I will use the Lucas Synthetic Stabilzer for the winter where it can get to 40-C. I am going to order a new timing belt kit and water pump. Will let you know how things turn out.
 

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all my tappets were very noisy, i had no idea how to do it so i paid for it to be professionally. cost bugger all at $60 AUD. WAAAAAAY worth it! its been soooo much quieter and smoother! best $60 i EVER spent
 

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all my tappets were very noisy, i had no idea how to do it so i paid for it to be professionally. cost bugger all at $60 AUD. WAAAAAAY worth it! its been soooo much quieter and smoother! best $60 i EVER spent
Whincup...I did the adjustment correctly using the correct tolerances on all valves, so either the specs given to me were incorrect or the problem is lying somewhere else. I am going to order a new timing belt kit and will see if that improves the situation. It is not as bad as it was when I took it for a test drive. Just waking up getting ready to have some new all terrain tires installed. Always something to do on a older vehicle.:)
 

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loose valve adjustment should be rattling at cold idle too. maybe the noise you hear in engine ping, caused by carbon build up , wrong timing,ect.
squid
 

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Tappet noise

loose valve adjustment should be rattling at cold idle too. maybe the noise you hear in engine ping, caused by carbon build up , wrong timing,ect.
squid
Squid whatever it is, the addition of Lucas Oil Stabilizer has made it quieter. Wierd thing is, sometimes you don't even hear it. I picked up a Gates timing belt kit with the tensioner and seals and also a new water pump too. I've never done a timing belt before, kind of apprehensive. I've done timing chain and gear replacement in Fords and Chevs but have never worked on a Japenese motor before. Should be fun.:)
 

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Whincup...I did the adjustment correctly using the correct tolerances on all valves, so either the specs given to me were incorrect or the problem is lying somewhere else. I am going to order a new timing belt kit and will see if that improves the situation. It is not as bad as it was when I took it for a test drive. Just waking up getting ready to have some new all terrain tires installed. Always something to do on a older vehicle.:)
sorry, i didnt read the part where u said you had done it already yourself... sorry if that came across as a dig at your mechanical skills, not what i meant :cool:
 

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Noisey tappets and things

:)
sorry, i didnt read the part where u said you had done it already yourself... sorry if that came across as a dig at your mechanical skills, not what i meant :cool:
Whincup...no problem my friend! There is one fellow on this forum that has posted some really good instructions on how to r and r the timing belt. All seems straight forward, but I really hate to take that dampener off the crank, but apparently the keyway can do some nasty things if it has wear on it. :)
 

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Mike in Canada,
I've never worked on a car before other than oil changes and brake jobs. I bought my Sami in January and just started taking things off till I found the timing belt, replaced it and all the other things in that area. Seals, water pump, etc. As someone else mentioned, I'm sure it'll be a piece of cake for you having done a timing chain before. Now here's my stupid question--what in the world are tappets? I thought you were talking about the valve lash adjustment but now I have no idea what you're referring to.
Thanks for schooling me!
 

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I've been re-reading some of the posts...
Maybe you guys shouldn't bash Fram like that. I've been using Fram for... I guess about 30 years on at least two dozen different makes and models of vehicles. Shoot, in the early 80's I worked in a auto shop and about a third of the filters we used were Fram. Fram makes more than one line now. I haven't paid for a oil change in about 20 years.
Remember, when you adjust valves, make sure you are on the true bottom of the lob of the cam. I've also heard of sammy valves making noise when the cam is worn. Have you measured the cam? I've only done this when it was out. Maybe time for a new cam. Perfect time to upgrade to a meatier bump stick?
(anyone have actual links/proof of Fram filters breakdown?)
 

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I've been re-reading some of the posts...
Maybe you guys shouldn't bash Fram like that. I've been using Fram for... I guess about 30 years on at least two dozen different makes and models of vehicles. Shoot, in the early 80's I worked in a auto shop and about a third of the filters we used were Fram. Fram makes more than one line now. I haven't paid for a oil change in about 20 years.
Remember, when you adjust valves, make sure you are on the true bottom of the lob of the cam. I've also heard of sammy valves making noise when the cam is worn. Have you measured the cam? I've only done this when it was out. Maybe time for a new cam. Perfect time to upgrade to a meatier bump stick?
(anyone have actual links/proof of Fram filters breakdown?)
GasJr. I have (up until last year) been using Fram since the 1970's. I was always under the impression they were the best that money could buy. I found an article written by a fellow who did this test on many different oil filters. He would cut them open and check out the total filter coverage area to see who gave the most area. Also checked out the materail that the valve was made of etc. I will try to find it and repost it for you. I now use filters made by Purolator which this fellow regarded as one of the top two or three, cannot remember. You pay a little more, but I suppose it is worth it. I never thought about measuring the cam. I took off the valve cover and everything was very clean, no sludge whatsoever. The engine has approximately 57,000 miles on it. :)
 

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Mike in Canada,
I've never worked on a car before other than oil changes and brake jobs. I bought my Sami in January and just started taking things off till I found the timing belt, replaced it and all the other things in that area. Seals, water pump, etc. As someone else mentioned, I'm sure it'll be a piece of cake for you having done a timing chain before. Now here's my stupid question--what in the world are tappets? I thought you were talking about the valve lash adjustment but now I have no idea what you're referring to.
Thanks for schooling me!
Wrenchwoman....Properly speaking, a tappet is only that part of a rocker arm which makes contact with an intake or exhaust valve stem above the cylinder head of an internal combustion engine. Hope this helps!
 
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