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Discussion Starter #1
my 1991 Geo Tracker (California car 4x4 auto trans) would not start the other day. While waiting on a ride home I pulled the coil wire to see if it was getting spark, crank it over and spark is leaving the coil. I then was looking over the engine bay and grabbing items under the hood and noticed the distributor cap was loose. I tightened the distributor cap down, tried to start it again and still no start. I decided to check if fuel delivery was the problem. I had enough tools to disconnect the fuel line from the throttle body and had the woke turn the key on and sure enough there seemed to be plenty of fuel pressure. A couple days later I towed the car home, opened the hood to see if I missed something obvious and noticed this time the distributor cap had a hole worn through it. I pulled a spark plug and they were dry. went ahead and installed new cap, rotor & plugs and still no start, but I did smell gas. It was leaking gas from the line where it attaches to the throttle body. I finally started digging around this forum and the Fix Kick site and tried the DTC and the Check Engine Light just stays illuminated. I do have the fuel pump electrically disconnected. I does try to run by dumping a little gas down the throttle body. Am I missing anything?
 

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I wonder if you put the rotor back in a bit off? When you say the cap was loose did it damage the rotor?

Many of the replacement rotors can be put on in 3 different positions.

I'd say start from square 1.

my 1991 Geo Tracker (California car 4x4 auto trans) would not start the other day. While waiting on a ride home I pulled the coil wire to see if it was getting spark, crank it over and spark is leaving the coil. I then was looking over the engine bay and grabbing items under the hood and noticed the distributor cap was loose. I tightened the distributor cap down, tried to start it again and still no start. I decided to check if fuel delivery was the problem. I had enough tools to disconnect the fuel line from the throttle body and had the woke turn the key on and sure enough there seemed to be plenty of fuel pressure. A couple days later I towed the car home, opened the hood to see if I missed something obvious and noticed this time the distributor cap had a hole worn through it. I pulled a spark plug and they were dry. went ahead and installed new cap, rotor & plugs and still no start, but I did smell gas. It was leaking gas from the line where it attaches to the throttle body. I finally started digging around this forum and the Fix Kick site and tried the DTC and the Check Engine Light just stays illuminated. I do have the fuel pump electrically disconnected. I does try to run by dumping a little gas down the throttle body. Am I missing anything?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I replaced the rotor with the cap. It does run on gas dumped down the throttle body. I don't think the injector is spraying.
 

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I replaced the rotor with the cap. It does run on gas dumped down the throttle body. I don't think the injector is spraying.
If the FI fuse is good then time to check the ECU.

Of course it could always be corrosion or rust on the fuel pump wires either behind the drivers tail light or on top of the tank.

But don't take my word for it, search this forum for more details.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So if I do the jumper to pull the diagnostic trouble codes and the Check Engine Light doesn't blink codes the ECU is bad?
 

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So if I do the jumper to pull the diagnostic trouble codes and the Check Engine Light doesn't blink codes the ECU is bad?
I am no expert but IF I am not mistaken it should show a code 12 IF all is good.
Blink - pause - blink blink

The caps leak and may not look bad I think folks say to check who the mfg is.
 

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Does the check engine light stay on all the time with ignition on, or just when you try the jumper?

If it's on all the time then it's likely the nag switch needs reset. Mine is behind the little panel under the steering column, to the right side I believe. Switch it one way and see if the light goes out. If not then switch it back and it should go out.

If the ECU is working properly and the nag switch isn't causing the light to stay on and override the flashes, it should flash code 12 repeatedly if there's nothing wrong.
 

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The CEL has two functions - service engine soon, or ECU codes. If the service engine soon function is on (nag) you cannot jump for codes. Under your steering column is a small panel, which you remove and put your hand straight down about 3 inches or so - you will feel a tiny sliding switch, which you slide to the other side of where it is now. That will turn off the SES, and you can then try to see if you can get codes.
Regarding your no start situation, you advise that it will run with test fuel, which means that your problem is on the fuel side of ignition. When you turn the key to the on position, do you hear the fuel pump priming for 3 seconds?? It should (you may need someone at the rear of the car to listen). If not, have you checked the ground for the fuel pump behind the left rear tail light?
If the fuel pump checks out and is running, then check the injector and its wiring. When you are cranking, do you see fuel injecting at the injector?? With the key in the on position (and if you turn the key from off to on, 3 times, you are building up fuel pressure) do you see fuel leaking around the injector? If you disconnect the injector connector, you can check for resistance of the injector, which should be .8-1.8 ohms. If that checks out ok, it is possible that you may have an open in either the yellow or red wire going to the injector.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I attached the fuel line to the throttle body and was looking down the throttle body while Jr. was cranking the engine over. I could see fuel droplets on the throttle blade. The engine started and sounded horrible, like it was only running on 2 cylinders and it wouldn't idle. From under the hood with the air intake removed to observe the fuel pattern I reved the engine to about 3-4k and the PCV tube on the valve cover shot some oil out. I think I'm going to need to do a cylinder leak down test and PCV check. I'll pull the new plugs later and check them. I'm not sure this beast has a NAG switch, the Fix Kick site said the California cars didn't have them but I'll look for it. Thanks for all the assistance.
 

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No, the nag switch is only on federal cars, so if you're sure your California, you won't have it.
You may want to start with a compression test, which will advise you of the health of the engine and engine timing. On your car, you should get at least 150psi on a stone cold engine. Do the test with all plugs removed, the F1 fuse removed, and 'Jr' flooring the gas pedal while he's cranking, so you can get the best compression result.
Presumably when you are trying to jump the diagnostic connector, you are jumping the pins for the blue/yellow to black wire in the connector? Have you ever tested the fuel pressure?
 
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