[Caveman Dave]

Hello everyone I’m new to this forum. I’ve read through hundreds of threads but I’m still lost. I have a 1990 Tracker 4x4 5sp 1.6 8v with 38k that is not getting an injection pulse. So far I have replaced the fuel pump and the three capacitors in the ecm(33920-60A32) but still no injection pulse. I tried the noid light test on the injector wires and to no avail. It also seems that I may have no tach signal but I’m unsure on how to test for it. It runs well off of test fuel so I know I have spark and compression. Here is some additional info that may be applicable. The car sat for about 4 years prior to me buying it. When I first started working on it I tried starting it with some ether and I did have a tach reading then but now it points pretty much down. No CEL with key on or while it is cranking. Also tried to pull codes but the engine light does not light up at all so I’m thinking the bulb is bad. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Dave

 

[aquanaut20]

Important to first repair the CEL so that you can record any codes.. If it runs on remote fuel then all that is missing is fuel..
No noid light would indicate either a damaged wire of a faulty ECM..

For interest sake are you Multi port or TB injected ??

 

[Caveman Dave]

It’s throttle body injected. Is the light supposed to be on while cranking as well?

 

[aquanaut20]

Yes the NOID light should pulse when cranking
If you have the jumper in, the CEL should show a code if there is an error, so if the CEL does not illuminate, chase that first..

 

[xkaes]

Welcome to the Forum. There are lots of knowledgeable, helpful people here -- I know, but I'm not one of them!

You said that it sat for four years before you bought it, but how long ago was the purchase? Recent? Was it OK from when you bought it until now?

Since it is a '90 Tracker, I assume the odometer has FIVE digits. How do you know it is not 138,000 or 238,000?

I could sell mine and claim "very few miles".

 

[Caveman Dave]

It’s throttle body injected. I just fixed the engine light and it’s giving code 12.

 

[Caveman Dave]

Xkaes, Sorry it is 138k I just looked at the title. And it sat for 4 maybe 5 years. The previous owner towed it behind an RV for most of its life and when they sold it the car sat. I bought it from them about a month and a half ago. When I bought the car I knew it didn’t run on its own but fired up first try with ether.

 

[fordem]

Leave the diagnostic fuse/jumper in, crank the engine and before you switch the ignition off, check the code - is it still a 12 or has it changed?

 

[xkaes]

....it is 138k I just looked at the title. The previous owner towed it behind an RV for most of its life

OK. Depending on how it got 138,000 miles on the odometer, it might be in GREAT shape -- once you solve the mystery you are facing.

 

[Caveman Dave]

I was told it has the original clutch and it’s on its second set of brakes. It spent most of its time being towed.

 

[Caveman Dave]

Fordem, I just pulled the ecu again. I wanted to check everything again since I replaced the caps. As soon as I get it back in I’ll check the code while cranking. Update I still have a code 12 while cranking.

 

[Caveman Dave]

On this year does the cam sensor have a direct impact on the ecus injection command? I noticed before when staring on test fuel the tach moved but now it doesn’t. I also proved the TPS and Its reading .9v at closed and 5.1v ant WOT so I think that is good.

 

[Caveman Dave]

Here’s a quick list of what I’ve done so far:
Replaced fuel pump(but I haven’t checked pressure)
Replaced the 3 capacitors in the ecu
Tested TPS (reads .9v at closed and 5.1v at WOT)
Checked continuity at injector wires (.1 ohm on each)
Noid light test on injector (failed, no flashing light)
Removed and cleaned throttle body and injector
New fuel filter at tank
Check engine codes (code 12 with key on engine off and while cranking)
Anything I should try next?

 

[fordem]

I'm guessing a failed ECU, at least, that's what it would most likely be on a 90 Sidekick.

If the ECU doesn't see the crank angle signal from the distributor it should set a code 42, if it doesn't see ignition feedback, it should set a code 41, since you're getting a 12, it's probably seeing both of those inputs.

 

[2013GV]

Silly thought, caps in the right way? Ie correct polarity?

 

[Caveman Dave]

2013gv I believe so… I copied the old caps and I think I did it right. But not 100% I followed the markings on the board but I may have messed it up.

 

[Caveman Dave]

Fordem, is there any way to check for faulty ecm? The board looks pretty clean and no burnt out spots. Are there any inputs from the dizzy or elsewhere I should check before assuming it’s a ecu problem?

 

[2013GV]

2013gv I believe so… I copied the old caps and I think I did it right. But not 100% I followed the markings on the board but I may have messed it up. View attachment 107039
View attachment 107040
View attachment 107041

No worries, was just a thought. I've seen it done.

 

[Bex]

Your injector is run by the yellow and red wire that goes from the ECU to the injector. The yellow wire is the injector driver and the red wire is the 12v battery circuit. On the 91 (so may be different on your car) these connections run from the green connector (pin #8 for the red wire and pin #17 for the yellow). Have you checked the continuity of these wires, from the ECU to the injector connector? Also note that a short in these wires will blow the injector driver in the ECU. The drivers are at the green plastic object in your photo above…normally listed as Q101 and Q102 or similar. While the photo above is not specific to that area, it’s difficult to tell if there is any damage there. ???
And confirm when you did Fordem’s suggestion above, about cranking the engine with the diagnostic jumper in place, did you leave the key in the on position, after cranking, to see if the code had changed??

 

[fordem]

Fordem, is there any way to check for faulty ecm? The board looks pretty clean and no burnt out spots. Are there any inputs from the dizzy or elsewhere I should check before assuming it’s a ecu problem?

If you have access to a 'scope, and know how to use one, and access to the wiring diagrams, you can verify crank angle sensor input at the ECM connector, verify ignition event feedback and verify no injector drive on the output.

Having said that, I think that has already been done - if you left the diagnostic jumper in place, cranked the engine and then checked the codes without switching off (as I suggested earlier), the ECU will report whether or not it's seeing those inputs by setting a code 41 or 42, the noid light verifies no injector drive, and you've done continuity tests on the injector wiring.