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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I've been trying to get the 1.3 engine on my 88 Samurai running. I had some trouble with the timing but I was able to get it running at 20 degrees BTDC instead of 10 degrees. Either Ack or Baractus mentioned that was caused by the timing belt having slipped. After running it for 5 minutes or so it just cut off and wont start again.

The engine turns and I have spark at the spark plugs but no fuel at the carburetor. The fuel pump is not leaking oil. I checked the fuses and they're good to go. I did a visual check of the fuel lines and they looked good.

I did notice a sort of hissing sound when I would push the clutch in while the engine was running for those glorious five minutes :p

Is there a way to check if the fuel pump is working without a multimeter? On the forums someone mentioned cranking the engine manually and fuel should shoot out the line attached to the carb. I took that to mean cranking the crankshaft manually with a 17mm, I did and no fuel came out of the line.
 

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you can't check the fuel pump with a multimeter because it's a mechanical pump, not electric. The pump has a little arm on it the is actuated by the cam. If your belt has completely snapped, the cam will no longer turn and the pump will no longer pump fuel. When you noticed the belt had slipped a notch, that would be the time to replace it. They usually don't last much past that.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I took the top part of the timing belt cover off to see if the belt snapped off and it hasn't. The belt looks quite new actually, I had some work done on the engine recently and it seems they changed the belt. I'm about to chuck this sucker into a river...
 

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No fuel at the carburetor or out of the fuel pump could mean a clogged fuel filter - which is located in the right rear wheel well area (fuel fill side...)

I hope that this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Changed the fuel filter a few minutes ago and its not drawing fuel into the filter. Could the timing belt be the culprit even though it didn't snap?
 

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It's possible that whoever replaced the timing belt did not set the tension properly or they may not have secured the tensioner and it may have loosened up. They belt may be in-tact, but is just slipping on the pulley. try turning the crank pully by hand with the valve cover off. If the cam turns when you turn the crank then the timing belt is probably fine. If the cam doesn't turn when you turn the crank then the belt is either slipping or the cam isn't connected to the pulley anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thanks for the advice, I checked and the cam does move when I turn the crankshaft manually.

edit: trying to chase this down. if the timing belt did slip, would it stop the fuel pump from working by having messed up the timing? or does the pump move gas regardless of the timing as long as the belt is turning?
 

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The fuel pump could have a broken arm that drives it. Pull the pump and check it. Blow back through the fuel line to the tank to see if it is blocked somewhere. Make sure there is gas in the tank. Also check to see if the pump diaphram still draws vaccume. It could have just failed and not leaking oil yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
took fuel pump out

Took the fuel pump out, the half moon arm on the pump barely moves, maybe I'm not applying enough pressure. I did notice that the rod coming out of the engine block (which I assume moves the half moon on the pump), does not move when I move the crank shaft manually. I've attached a pic of the rod I'm talking about.

 

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Have a friend crak over the engine while you push in on the rod and see if it's traveling in and out. The fuel pump drive lobe could be worn out on the cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I put my finger on it while a friend cranked the engine, I could feel some movement but its not like the rod was pushing out with any kind of force. I could feel something turning behind the rod I guess and if I let it go it would come out all the way but more through pressure than force.
 

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well thats great that your belt ok and the cam is turning at least. When you say the rod isn't pushing against your finger much, is it enough force to move the pump arm? It doesn't require much pressure to move and it doesn't move very far.

Is there a check for the diaphragm? like blowing by mouth into the check hole and seeing if it holds air?
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I dont think the fuel pump rod is moving with enough pressure to move the rocker arm inside the fuel pump. When I try to move the rocker arm manually I can barely get it to move, maybe it moves a few millimeters.

I also noticed that the vent tube had been broken off the fuel pump and the hole covered with liquid metal. The fuel pump was also full of oil.
 

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What Zooki4x4 said!

The vent tube is there to relieve air pressure behind the diaphragm during the retraction half of the pump stroke. Blocking the vent makes it hard for the pump to do it's job.

Excess oil would enter the backside of the pump if the engine was pressurized by a blocked PCV valve, the pump push rod is worn or the hole the pushrod slides in has worn enough to let large quantities of oil pass though.

Also, take a look at the cam lobe that drives the push rod and check for excessive wear.

After checking all the possible problems, that leaves the 'impossible": Maybe the PO installed a pushrod that is actually NOT the original pushrod but a shortened piece of steel rod that was "mistaken" for the OEM pushrod.

In any case, I would start with replacing the fuel pump wth a complete, unmodified one like zook4x4 suggests.

I hope that this helps!
 
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