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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently pulled my rig in the garage to install a new muffler and when I went to start it broke timing belt. Replaced that along with new water pump and thermostat. Cant seem to get it to run right at this time. Can you get the timing 180 out? Didn't think so going by instructions I used. Anyway now the engine temp barely moves off cold and I have to feather the throttle to get going. No low end power but runs like a scalded dog above 3000 rpm. I have adjusted timing with distributor but have no timing light at this time. All the way in toward firewall and stumbles and dies. Go toward front of motor and rpm comes way up. Found sweet spot where idles "normal" and is somewhat drivable. I have no IAC. Wasn't there when I bought it and I have been driving it that way for 2 1/2 years. No check engine light either. As in it was removed and cant be replaced without trip to pick and pull. Have not done a compression test yet either. Could I be a tooth or 2 off on the timing belt? This rig ran pretty good for a $500 beater and I have gotten my moneys worth out of it. Hoping to get more as my 13 yr old wants to have it when he gets his license in a few years. Any help greatly appreciated.
 

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It sounds like it is a tooth or two out on the valve timing.
 

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Instructions on how to properly time the engine should be somewhere on the forum. In a nutshell, the cam timing is done to cylinder #4 firing. The crank key is at 12:00, and on the cam pulley you may have two sets of marks - either E or 60, and I or 80. You use the 60 or E marks, which will be at 12:00 and the cam key will be at 6:00. Many people time this to cylinder #1 firing, which is incorrect. Then, ignition timing - the car fires 1-3-4-2 and your rotor will rotate clockwise. The ignition timing is done to cylinder #1 firing.
 

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It sounds like it is a tooth or two out on the valve timing.
x 2. Did you rotate the timing belt at least 2 revolutions and double check the crank and cam gears were synchronized prior to installing the timing cover?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes I line up the timing marks correctly according to instructions found on this site with rotor pointing to wire 4. Rotated 2 times and marks were still lined up. Maybe I am 1 or 2 teeth off on the belt now. When you rotate the crank and the marks are lined up is it possible to be on the exhaust stroke vs. compression stroke. Or do these motors to both on one rotation of the crank?
 

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It's possible you might be 180 deg out. You can check to see if a cylinder is at TDC on compression stroke with a compression gauge as you manually turn the crank pulley towards your mark. Or a close fitting piece of rubber hose in the spark plug hole, blow in it, when you feel blockage when approaching your mark you know it's on compression. Then feel down the hole with a smaller piece of hose just to make sure the piston is at its highest point when at your mark.
 

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A compression test will confirm your valve timing. If you do one, make sure that your gas pedal is floored when cranking, and post your results. You should get about 170psi on all cylinders on an engine that's not stone cold.
 
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