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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm new here and I'm from Denmark.
I have a problem with my Ignis from 2006.
First off, for some days ago when i cranked the engine, it would run up to 2500'ish RPM's and then fall down slowly, it sounds like i was putting weight on the throttle pedal, but i didn't touch it.
Now it cranks normal, but it goes to really low RPM's when i start the engine, yesterday it also stalled when stopped at a red light.
When i pull the codes on the scanner, it gives me a "P0010" code, P0010 - "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1)
The check engine light doesn't illuminate, so i will check the bulb in the dash.

When i look on youtube, i see that it's a solenoid, but i can't find the part here in Denmark.
Can anyone tell me where to locate the part in the engine?

Thanks in advance.
Patrick.
 

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Which engine do you have? :huh:

Also, have you recently jump-started, or replaced or disconnected the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh sorry, it's a 2006 VVT petrol motor, it says 1,3 L 2 Wd.

I just bought the car used for 2 weeks since. I haven't had the battery disconnected, but i pulled the fuse inside the car, as i wanted to adjust the clock in the information display. I have an aftermarked radio, so i can't adjust it manually on the buttons.

Just changed the oil and filter today, hoping that it may resolve some of the issues.
 

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A temporary power disruption (battery or the appropriate fuse pulled as well) can cause the computer to then switch to default mode settings and thus the vehicle will need to be driven and "re-learn" (re-program) itself.

Try giving the vehicle time to adjust in other words. Several days / cycles normally works.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thank you very much. :)
I will try to give it some time and see if the idle will get better.
I think the "Check Engine Light" bulb is either blown or missing. It doesn't even light up when i turn the key to "On" position.

When i get back from vacation, I will open up the dash and see.
 

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"Check Engine Light" bulb is either blown or missing
Often a used vehicle selling trick to hide a fault and / or throw off Inspection personnel. :(

Let's hope for the best.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I hope not. :(

It just passed what we call "Syn", I think that what's called a "MOT" in UK, it's an inspection of the car, emission test and so on the day before i got it. Only thing that needed to be changed was the license plate light and the battery had to be correctly strapped in.

Maybe the dealer disconnected the battery when strapping it on? :huh:

I'll give it some days and I'll report back. Thank you very much for replying. :)
 

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Sorry to be so sceptical, but the problem is "Dealer". I suspect the car was traded as it had a fault. It might be in Limp Mode, but might not be.

The dash is really easy to remove the cluster with 6 screws (2 under top in front, 4 for cluster) and I think 1 or 2 plugs you have to reach in behind to unclip.

Also check for air leak on intake, Idle Air Motor, and carbon build-up in throttle body and manifold where Idle Air Motor is.
 

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OR, since you just bought it at the dealer, return to said dealer with a NO CEL complaint...

If the bulb is burnt or removed, that is a failure of the "Inspection" and/or fraud...

I would suggest not fiddling till this is addressed...

... Philip
 

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OR, since you just bought it at the dealer, return to said dealer with a NO CEL complaint...

If the bulb is burnt or removed, that is a failure of the "Inspection" and/or fraud...

I would suggest not fiddling till this is addressed...

... Philip
Dealer can say "That's the way it was traded!" as a defense - is there proof otherwise?

Inspector can defend "no fault light visible" as taking reasonable step during an inspection, and is an engine fault light a safety critical item if the engine is running fine at the time?

The Sceptick in me says the Dealer is the A-hole, but how do we prove fraud, given the above? In the end, without a "whistle blower", it's buyer employs Due Diligence and Buyer Beware before signing on the line for the sale!
 

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For a valid inspection, the CEL must illuminate with key on and extinguish at engine run (if no emission faults), not associated with safety...

However it is your dime, how you handle it is yours alone..

... Philip
 

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Dealer can say "That's the way it was traded!" as a defense - is there proof otherwise?

Inspector can defend "no fault light visible" as taking reasonable step during an inspection, and is an engine fault light a safety critical item if the engine is running fine at the time?
no they can't, CEL is a mandatory requirement for a safety and emissions inspection there. Same as an ABS light.

Even in the UK they are mandatory for an MOT.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I couldn't sleep, so i went out and took the cluster out. Easy job!
But I will never get a "CEL" as the little LED was loose and fell of trying to wiggle it in place. Either i Will get a New cluster or I will re-solder the little LED.
The pointer for the RPM, can it be pulled out? Anyone tried that?
 

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P0010 is flagged when the crankshaft position sensor is not aligned with the camshaft sensor. Sometimes the problem is easy to solve (connections, sensor fault etc) but sometimes it's caused by wear and stretch in the valve timing gear - this can be expensive to fix. It wouldn't be the first time that someone has avoided an expensive job by disabling the check engine light. In the first instance - delete the code and check if it re-appears. It's very important on VVi engines to change the engine oil at the prescribed intervals - using a good quality oil of the correct specification.
 

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Have you confirmed it faulty, or just guessing based on a code...??

It requires a scope to verify CAM/Crank correlation... Wave form?

... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's just based off the code on the reader, it says P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1).

I don't know where to find it to see if the wires damaged and i have a new sensor here.
 

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It's just based off the code on the reader, it says P0010 "A" Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1).
Parts cannon approach, this doesn't work, and gets very expensive very quickly.

I believe that people interpret this as a cam sensor code, and can be caused by faulty cam sensor, a faulty VVT solenoid, blocked oil filter screens in the passages, or a faulty VVT actuator.

in any case, further diagnosis is required, and in this case will require a scope to compare timing and drive waveforms to the cam actuators and the cam sensor output and the CKP sensor reference


P0010 is a generic OBD-II code indicating an issue with the engine control module (ECM) detecting a variation in the mechanical timing between the crankshaft and bank 1 camshaft. The timing issue is typically detected during higher RPMs of the engine when the ECM attempts to adjust valve lift or timing during higher speeds.
or in this case, cam timing via the VVT solenoid. ECM is calling for cam timing adjustment and not seeing it.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
VVT Solenoid, where is that located? Watched a lot of YouTube videos about that one associated with the code. I don't know anyone with a scope, might just drive it to the mechanics then.. Thanks for heling out. 👍😊
 
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