Yeah, I went back and listened to it and thought to myself, "crikey, that sounds awful!" You'll have to take my word, it's all good. I did spin all rotating parts by hand before buttoning it up. The only one that was even close to noisy was the idler pulley, and that got cleaned and repacked with grease.
I'm also going to have to take the driver's door apart and look at the lock. Apparently the electric lock will lock everything, but won't unlock anything even with repeated presses. Thankfully I had the windows down when I found that out! Link to video on google
Yup, oil pressure is good (well, at least good enough to turn the idiot light off after only a second of running).
Tonight's project was to inspect and service the brakes. I started at the front, and other than needing to knock the rust off the rotors they were surprisingly good. Almost brand new pads, the slide pins were free and greased, and the rotor showed no wear. I cleaned everything up, added a little grease to the appropriate places and buttoned it up. Then, I started it up, drove it out of the shop, turned around and backed in for easier access to the rears. There was a pretty pronounced pull to the left on the rear, almost like the right side was completely inop. So after placing on jackstands I started the tear down. Left rear brake drum came off after a little persuasion, and the shoes are looking worn but not terrible. Definitely will be replacing them anyway. Next up, the right side. There is a special place in hell for the jackwagon that did this! Link to pics
The drum came off easy enough, and that's what I found. Some people should definitely be banned from breeding. Now I'll see if I can salvage anything on that or just swap out the whole assembly from the rolled one. Probably going to go with total swap.
I got the brakes rebuilt last night. Now that I've done it a few times it only took a couple hours to strip everything, clean, then install new shoes and all the hardware, then bleed the system. I also finished changing all the fluids, so my son and I took it for short drive the put fresh gas in the tank. It's definitely going to need an alignment, but aside from that it seemed to drive ok.
Well my folks where here this weekend for my daughter's graduation, and I let my Mom in on the secret. She was THRILLED! I still have some things to sort out, but it was well enough for her to drive it around about a mile to get a feel for it. She was grinning and bouncing up and down like a 3 yr old.
Anyhoo, this afternoon I swapped the power steering pump in from the grey one, since the original seemed to be dead. Flushed all the fluid a couple times, then filled and bled per the manual. It was still a bit harder than my others, but getting better So, I decided to take it up the road just to try out the 4wd. We have a dirt/gravel road that goes pretty much uphill for about 10 miles, so it's perfect for slow speed puttering along. My wife decided to come along, and regretted it about 3 miles up. The engine sputtered for a bit then just died. Cranked it and started and sputtered a bit, then died again. After that, no fire whatsoever. Remember that 'uphill' part. started slowly backing down the hill until the next wide spot, turned her around and then coasted about a mile before hitting the starter just to see. Sure enough she fired up and ran. So, I'm pretty sure the fuel filter is all but plugged. I was planning to replace that anyway, just haven't had a chance to pick one up yet. Anyhoo, I'll get that replaced and be one step closer yet again. (The 4wd seemed to be working fine!)
After getting home I took an hour or so and cleaned/sanded/polished the headlights and did some cleaning on the bottom side of the hood.
Are we talking cam or crank? ( I've seen both shortened to CPS). Either way, no. It was running fine in the grey one, and continues to run fine in this one as long as I don't get into the throttle much. Uphill, added throttle application... Sputter then die. Downhill, essentially idling, runs fine. I could test for pressure, but the filter was getting replaced regardless. If it continues after the new filter then I'll continue diagnosis and document. At 242526 miles, I think filter replacement is warranted.
I took another video of the engine running (cold start) this evening. To my ears the engine sounded fine in person. Listening to the video it sounds like it's on it's last legs. So Max, you'll just have to take my word for it that the engine really isn't falling apart.
No time for the fuel filter tonight, that'll have to be later.
To test the fuel delivery (pump and filter) monitor the upstream O2, take out on road and floor the engine, the O2 should go full rich and stay as long as the pedal is down, this can be tested in low gear(engine loaded) to avert speeding...
Yeah, fuel delivery is fixed. O2 upstream is behaving as you're described, and oscillates as it should under normal circumstances. The downstream O2 sensor to be all but dead, however I've only driven it maybe 8 miles total. Once I have good rubber under it, I'll get to test it some more. Up to this point it's had 2 tires with the cords exposed and the other 2 almost to that point. So you can understand why the wheels/tires is next up on the list.