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Discussion Starter #21
Finally got some time to do a little more work. The good engine is out!


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Discussion Starter #22
I'm going to have some time today to work on this some more, and need a little help. The donor engine is from an early (01/99) model vitara, and red one that's getting the engine is 11/2000 (likely an '01) model year. It appears they made a change in one sensor on the blocks. The later engine removed from the 11/00 has a 1 wire sensor (coolant temp maybe?) on the right side, middle top of the block:
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Connector pics:
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The good engine removed from the 01/99 doesn't even have a boss on the block to mount anything there:
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I'm digging through the diagrams on SSG-ASIA but not having any luck identifying this sensor. Can anyone help? Ideally I can figure out what is for sure, then where the same sensor would be for both model year vehicles.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #23 (Edited)
I think I found it: link to diagram.

Part #18 on that diagram is the same for both model years, although the '99 doesn't show anything in the parts list, it skips 18 entirely. So, knock sensor exists on the '01 model, but may not exist on the '99. Now to figure out if that makes any difference to the ECM, and can I mount it in an alternate location?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Mechanic work put on hold due to weather. It was sunny and 67 yesterday.


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Discussion Starter #25
Ok, back to wrenching. Pulled the covers off to inspect, and this motor is looking great inside. I have a new timing set, but I'm almost certain it's already been replaced. There's almost no wear on anything, and before I pulled it I wasn't getting any noise even after sitting for weeks. Maybe I'll leave well enough alone.

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That's what I did...
 

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I don't think your ECU will notice the knock sensor missing. It is looking for a signal from the sensor that says knock knock, yours will be silent. But my reservation at Holiday Inn got cancelled last night, just sayin.
 

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Right, the knock sensor is an unmonitored open circuit, closes with knock frequency (ping)..

Looking at the very first picture, does the young lad have his boots on the wrong feet ??
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
I finally got the motor set in place yesterday. It actually mated up with the transmission easier than I thought it would. But, how in tarnation does one go about torquing the flywheel to torque converter bolts? We have them in place and finger tight, but I can't see any way to get a socket and ratchet in place. I can't even get decent purchase on the bolts with a wrench. The clutch that came out was much easier.
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I had my helper for a while, and thank goodness. His fingers are smaller than mine, so he was able to at least get the bolts in place and finger tight.

Also, on the crank pulley...is this the timing mark to use for adjusting the cam position sensor? I put a little spot of silver paint on it to help it stand out when I get to that point.
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This style of six-point, slight off-set angle box-end wrench and a good common sense manual torque feel application is your best bet. That and some thread locker. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Max, that's what I was using. Where did you place the bolts to access them? I can sort of get on them with the bolt just below the block on the left side. The little access hole on the bottom doesn't seem to be the place. Thanks!
 

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I had access behind the removable tin shield at the base of the bellhousing, BUT my V-6 may appear different than your 4-banger. An option for you may also be access thru the removed starter exposed opening.

 

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Discussion Starter #34
Thanks Max. The spacer between the engine/trans prevents access through the starter hole, otherwise that'd be perfect. I'll try from the bottom again...

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Discussion Starter #35
Thanks again Max for the tip. I tried from the bottom and was able to get them tightened up. I had to use the German torque spec, but it's done. I ended up using a 3/8 flex head ratchet and stubby 14mm socket to get in there, and then had my son on the other end of the crank with a long breaker bar to prevent the crank from turning/turn it to the next bolt. This the location I used. Not through the little access window, but directly in front of that:
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And this is the tool setup that worked:
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And a link to the album with some pics of the rest of this evening's progress:

link to google photos

I got the starter sitting in place, have to make sure I have the correct bolts to finish that. And I got started on cleaning the intake manifold.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Yea, that was going to be option C if this didn't work. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
More progress tonight, I have the intake side all buttoned up, fuel rail installed, and exhaust almost in. I have one little place at the back of the intake that I have to figure out, there's a threaded boss and small bar coming over towards it from the head. I also figured out how to mount the knock sensor on the block and still have everything else fit. In the picture showing it, the sensor is tightened up to the block. I ended up taking it back out and putting a thin shim washer on it so the wires can miss the intake brace.


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Discussion Starter #39
Well, I got enough stuff buttoned up check the fuel pump and look for leaks. And then, of course, I couldn't resist giving her a small bump of the starter. She fired up and ran for about 2 seconds before I shut her down. Still have to get the radiator in, and fill the transmission up, so I didn't want to do any more than confirm that the wiring is in place and correct, and that the ECM wasn't fried. Yay, so far it's looking good! New radiator should be here Tuesday, then I can get the trans cooler lines replaced and fill everything up. I still don't even know if the trans is any good, so I'm hoping all this work isn't for naught!
 

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Discussion Starter #40
My new radiator arrived today, so I got it installed, filled up the radiator and transmission and hit the key. She fired right up, but had some pretty severe lifter ticking on the intake side. I let it warm up for a few minutes, then shut it down to check for leaks. No leaks yet, double checked all the fluids, and fired it up again. This time I let it warm up all the way, then ran it at about 1500 rpms for about 5 minutes. Somewhere along the way the lifters finally filled up and all the ticking went away. Still no leaks evident, so I'm counting the motor install a success! Next up: brakes all the way around, and replace all the driveline fluids. I already did the front end while I had it apart, so that leaves transfer case and rear end. She's getting full synthetic gear lube. I took a short video with my phone, and of course the only thing you can hear is the fan. So you'll have to trust me, the engine does sound good.

I'm also going to have to take the driver's door apart and look at the lock. Apparently the electric lock will lock everything, but won't unlock anything even with repeated presses. Thankfully I had the windows down when I found that out!
Link to video on google
 
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