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Discussion Starter #1
I finally got around to cleaning out the shop enough to fit it. I bought an 01 Vitara 4cyl about 15 months ago. Decent shape other than not running. Last weekend I got it in the shop and started diagnosis. Fuel and spark where good, so I checked compression. I think that might be the problem, since it only has 30-35psi all the way across.
Oh, and there's some coolant in the oil. So, the engine will be removed and I'll swap in the one from the 99 that got rolled. Hopefully I get this one done sooner than spring. It'll be a gift to my mom so she can get to cabin without having to wait for my dad with the pickup. (4wd is required for all but about 3 months).


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Discussion Starter #2
And today I finally got the time to finish the tear down. I'll post some pics and let you guys guess why it was getting such low compression.


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who guessed blown head gasket?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
And a few just general pics of the tear down.


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all looks nice and clean internally, makes a change hehehe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So now I'm thinking it'll be easier to just do a top end rebuild on this one and get it back on the road. I'm thinking it'll need a timing chain set, rebuild the head, all new gaskets and a lot of cleaning. But, the cylinders are looking great with only the slightest hint of a ridge at the top. and no odd sounds coming from the crank/rods. Thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea, this one is WAY cleaner internally than the one from the Bazuki. I'm gonna go research some parts prices for this little guy...
 

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check head for straightness, and block too. If they are all good, then chains sprockets and tensioners and stick it back together. Head may need a shave to square it again, depending on how bad it is.
 

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Don't remove rods or pistons, you're asking fro trouble. Slight ridge is ok, just showing signs of age and wear, but given its cleanliness, it looks like this ones had a decent service history which bodes well.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Yea, I agree on leaving the bottom alone. I'll clean everything up really good, then take careful measurements to see if the mating surfaces are flat. It appears that I can get all the gaskets and timing chain set for ~$150, so that's not bad at all. I'll have to decide if I want to do the head, or just take it to the machine shop. I'm leaning towards letting the shop do it, just because they'll get it done sooner than I can. Plus that way I can have them clean the covers too.
 

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One word of advice, measure valve lash first before doing anything. If its flat then you don't need to worry, if its not and has to go to a shop, you may be able to save money by removing cams and lifters yourself, just mark and note which ones go where so you get the same clearances afterwards. If clearances need adjusting, now is the time to do it. Some shops will skim a head then flush it with the cams in place, but its risky.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Overhead cams, hydraulic lifters.
 

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ok, yours is the hydraulic lifter model, in that case, lash is not an issue. Makes life a lot simpler
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I finally got the head dropped off at the machine shop yesterday, and it doesn't look good. .013" of warp. He asked me to drop off the cams so they can see about straightening the head, so it's not completely lost but I'm guessing I'll be swapping on the other motor for the final fix. More to follow once they finish tear down and diagnosis. Apparently they have a guy who has had good luck straightening out bent Al heads, but the cam journals is the tricky part.

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if the cam journals are straight they can shave it, but straightening AL heads and getting things straight is not easy, I hope it all works out.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The verdict is in: the head isn't worth saving to me. Essentially I'm looking at $3-500 for the machine work, and they aren't sure it won't eat cam journals when it's all done. That, and the fact that the bottom end is really an unknown, and I have a known good engine to swap in means that I'll just pull what's left out and start the full swap.


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Discussion Starter #17
Small update: I've been tinkering with other things, and life continues to happen around me. But today I had a friend over and we made some good headway. The old engine is removed from the chassis, and we made good progress getting the good engine ready to remove from the one that rolled. I didn't have to remove the front differential completely, just unbolted from the mounts and let it droop down a bit. I will have to spend a lot of time removing all the old grease/oil/dirt from the engine bay before I put the good engine in place. It's disgusting under there! I have noticed a few minor differences between the two ('99 and '00), so I'll have to be extra careful with all the connections. Probably the most amazing part of it was when removing the exhaust manifold on the good motor I didn't have one bolt seize and break! Of course the motor made up for it by taking 4 hours to get the intake manifold off, but it can't all be easy. :)
 

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I had one of those manifold bolts rusted stuck so bad I had to cut it off. So I'm looking at the cut off stud, thinking, how in the world am I going to remove this? I ended up using an old plumbers trick. Heat the bolt with a torch to glowing red, and then touch it with a candle. The wax somehow makes removal much easier.
 

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push the car outside, cover all the plugs with plastic bags and tape, then brush on degreaser and hose off the engine bay. Don't pressure wash, it just blows the gunge everywhere.

Lucky you, the inlet manifold obvioulsly drew the short straw for "lets piss this mechanic off" rather than the exhaust this time hehe
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I thought i should post a few pics of what I've got. The red one is going to get the good engine and be given to my mom. Grey one is obviously the rolled one with good engine. And the gold one is Bazuki, the one that started this whole Suzuki thing and still doesn't have a motor in it!


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