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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello, new to the forum. I have searched quite a bit on an issue im having. I recently purchased a samurai. Its a 94, Its in pretty good shape and seems to run good. I basically bought it to do a spoa and use as my hunting rig. I owed a jimny 660 when i was stationed in okinawa about 10 yrs ago and just wanted one again.

Anyway the problem im having is the sammy seems to run pretty good. At start up it idles about 2k rpms for a minute or so then it goes down a bit. I recently replaced the distributor o ring to fix my oil leak. Now I have a check engine light with a code of 51. EGR system. Also I would like to get a new PCV valve because im sure its needed. I have really no idea were to start. Do I just through parts at it or is there someway to check if EGR system and PCV valve need cleaned. Also were is the PCV valve? I think i located the egr valve. Also previous owner put a cherry bomb in the exhaust instead of muffler! will be putting muffler back. Wont be very good for hunting with a glass pack.

Also the wiring harness that comes from passenger side to driverside over the top of the timing belt cover. The wiring has a spade connector on it and isnt connected to anything. Any ideas?

Thank you for any replies. I truly appreciate it.
 

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Here are some links to PDF of the factory service manuals (FSM). The 1991-1995 years are the EFI model years. Except for the EFI, years 1987-1995 are mostly the same

Ack's FAQ 1990 to 1992 Samurai Supplemental Service Manual See page 4a-55 for the code 51 diagnostics

Ack's FAQ Samurai 1988 Factory Service Manual FSM

986-1988 Samurai Wiring Diagram (In COLOR!) This wiring diagram covers all wiring except for the EFI as it for the carb model years.

Replace the PCV valve - do not bother to clean as they are cheap. Adjust valve lash. Install only the stock NGK plugs. If plug wires are old, replace. Do the Seafoam treatment, 1/3 fuel, 1/3 oil, 1/3 through the brake booster hose.
 

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I am on my first Samurai, always had Suzuki motorcycles and loved them. I have rebuilt cars, trucks, motorcycles and anything else that runs for many years. Being in the garage business it just came as a natural part of the business as I was always finding great deals on vehicles. One thing I never did was start a rebuild without a COMPLETE shop manual on the vehicle I was rebuilding. Sounds from your post like maybe you don't have one, I know there are many available on line, however for some of us older enthusiasts book in hand is better, especially since I don't take my computer to the shop when I am getting greasy.

I have done several rebuilds from the ground up including frames, and have enjoyed all of them. Have no plans to do that with the REJECT, just want it to run great for our desert and mountain trail running. I ordered the manual the day I picked up the REJECT and it still does not explain everything, but helps a lot.

Happy Four Wheeling. :cool::)
 

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Adjust valve lash. Install only the stock NGK plugs. If plug wires are old, replace. Do the Seafoam treatment, 1/3 fuel, 1/3 oil, 1/3 through the brake booster hose.[/QUOTE]
All good info, I'd have agreed with you a year ago.
As an experiment I installed a set of E3 plugs and Accell 9mm wires.
Net result + 3 mpg over a year of driving and a noticeable increase in power.....
Gotta recomend E3 's and allways good quallity wires.
 

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Hello, new to the forum. I have searched quite a bit on an issue im having. I recently purchased a samurai. Its a 94, Its in pretty good shape and seems to run good. I basically bought it to do a spoa and use as my hunting rig. I owed a jimny 660 when i was stationed in okinawa about 10 yrs ago and just wanted one again.

Anyway the problem im having is the sammy seems to run pretty good. At start up it idles about 2k rpms for a minute or so then it goes down a bit. I recently replaced the distributor o ring to fix my oil leak. Now I have a check engine light with a code of 51. EGR system. Also I would like to get a new PCV valve because im sure its needed. I have really no idea were to start. Do I just through parts at it or is there someway to check if EGR system and PCV valve need cleaned. Also were is the PCV valve? I think i located the egr valve. Also previous owner put a cherry bomb in the exhaust instead of muffler! will be putting muffler back. Wont be very good for hunting with a glass pack.

Also the wiring harness that comes from passenger side to driverside over the top of the timing belt cover. The wiring has a spade connector on it and isnt connected to anything. Any ideas?

Thank you for any replies. I truly appreciate it.
EGR system probably needs cleaned. Clean all the passages and the EGR valve. You can use a piece of wire, or an old broken speedo cable and lots of brake cleaner and compressed air to get the passages clean. For the EGR valve, use a small flat screwdriver and brake cleaner and compressed air to clean out the holes. Be careful and don't gouge the diaphragm shaft that is inside the EGR valve. Once it is clean, the diaphragm shaft should move back and forth easily, when you push on the diaphragm with your fingers.
The PCV valve is near the middle of the intake, next to the head. The valve sticks straight up and look like an long hex nut with a rubber hose on the end.
The wire with the spade terminal on it goes to the oil pressure switch on the left side of the engine, under the exhaust manifold.
As far a tune-up/maintenance....
new spark plugs (NGK).
new spark plug wires.
new distributor cap and rotor.
new timing belt.
check/set valve lash.
change the fuel filter (located inside the right side framerail, over the rear axle)...if you are going to do a seafoam treatment, I would change it after you run all the seafoam through the tank.
check/change engine oil and filter, tranny and tcase oil, front and rear axle oil.
put a new poly or brass tcase shifter sheet in (so you don't have a problem with the tcase getting stuck in neutral).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well I got the code cleared. Cleaned the EGR system and replaced the PCV valve. I drove it about 70 miles this weekend and it never threw another code so maybe that fixed it. I guess my oil pressure switch has been replaced with a line that is connected to a oil pressure gauge. All fluids were just replaced. Ill probably do plugs and wires next.

I put a spoa on it this weekend. just need tires now. I have aftermarket wheels already. Not sure if I should run a 30x9.50r15 or go up to 31x10.50r15's? Didnt wanna bog her down to much. Also need to address the rear upper shock mounts.

Anyway thanks for the help.
 
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