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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought an 08 vitara 2wd auto 2.7 v6
99k.
When i start the car and put it in reverse quickly it bogs down and dies.
If i let it idle for 15 sec then shift to reverse it will bog down rpm but not die.
It did not do this for the 1st few weeks of owning it.
Only things i have done are oil change and ngk spark plug swap. I did wash under the hood pretty good with pressure washer due to dust everywhere but that was weeks ago now.
It doesnt have any issues when i start it and immediately put it in drive. Just reverse.
Anyone know what is causing this?
 

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Get a driver you can trust, make sure the hand brake is on, open the hood, remove the plastic engine cover and then have the driver shift from park to reverse repeatedly - look at the way the engine moves, and the way the wires flex - then flex the wires and see if you can get it to bog.

One more thing - pressure wash a fuel injected engine at your own risk - the connectors and sensors are splash resistant not waterproof, high pressure water sprays will cause you problems.

Finally - a little anecdote - I have two GVs, one second gen, the other third gen - both have the same J20 engine, I routinely wash the engine on the second gen with spray-on degreaser and the garden hose, the first time I did that with the third gen, it took me over an hour to get the engine started. With the second gen I can wash the engine, turn the key, start it & drive away, but the third gen does not like having the engine washed.

The big difference between the two, and this is where the problem lies, is the design of the ignition coil packs, on the third gens, water can get past them and down into the plug wells where it causes a misfire - it probably wouldn't hurt to check yours.
 

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This is where I say consider taking it to a shop - we can't judge your skillset, you have to know what you're capable of - you have to recognize when you've reached the limits of your capabilities.

The answer to your question is ANY wire, EVERY wire - you see the engine move, you see a wire flex - you check that wire.

When you shift a vehicle into gear the engine shifts position slightly - it goes one way for reverse, and the other way in drive - this movement can cause odd things to happen, for example, the exhaust pipe moves just enough to touch some part of the suspension and cause a rattle, but only in reverse, or only in drive.

Because your vehicle only bogs in reverse there's a high probability it's something similar, something in the wiring between the engine & the firewall shifting as the engine changes position - we're not there to watch it, which means you need to
 

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I bought an 08 vitara 2wd auto 2.7 v6
99k.
When i start the car and put it in reverse quickly it bogs down and dies.
If i let it idle for 15 sec then shift to reverse it will bog down rpm but not die.
It did not do this for the 1st few weeks of owning it.
Only things i have done are oil change and ngk spark plug swap. I did wash under the hood pretty good with pressure washer due to dust everywhere but that was weeks ago now.
It doesnt have any issues when i start it and immediately put it in drive. Just reverse.
Anyone know what is causing this?
Hi Larz it looks like you have an intermittent fault that could be logged as a DTC [diagnostic trouble code]. Does the engine fault light show just after the motor stops? Can you attach a scanner to the vehicle to see if fault codes have been raised? If codes are available could you provide details so forum members may be in a position to offer opinion and help. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is where I say consider taking it to a shop - we can't judge your skillset, you have to know what you're capable of - you have to recognize when you've reached the limits of your capabilities.

The answer to your question is ANY wire, EVERY wire - you see the engine move, you see a wire flex - you check that wire.

When you shift a vehicle into gear the engine shifts position slightly - it goes one way for reverse, and the other way in drive - this movement can cause odd things to happen, for example, the exhaust pipe moves just enough to touch some part of the suspension and cause a rattle, but only in reverse, or only in drive.

Because your vehicle only bogs in reverse there's a high probability it's something similar, something in the wiring between the engine & the firewall shifting as the engine changes position - we're not there to watch it, which means you need to
Im not new to working on car/trucks/jeeps etc.
I am however new to this vitara. Its not going to any shop.
The current fix lol is just let it idle for 10 sec then shift and it is just fine.
With that being said it does have a rough 5 sec idle at start when its cold.
I paid 1500 bucks for this little suv from a good friend an old man that babied it. He hit a dear and it dented the door and bumper. Thats why i got it so cheap. These are super cool little suv's i really like it but at 1500 bucks im fixing it on my own.
 

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Like I said - we can't judge your skillset, you have to know what you're capable of - you have to recognize when you've reached the limits of your capabilities.
 

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Im not new to working on car/trucks/jeeps etc.
I am however new to this vitara. Its not going to any shop.
The current fix lol is just let it idle for 10 sec then shift and it is just fine.
With that being said it does have a rough 5 sec idle at start when its cold.
I paid 1500 bucks for this little suv from a good friend an old man that babied it. He hit a dear and it dented the door and bumper. Thats why i got it so cheap. These are super cool little suv's i really like it but at 1500 bucks im fixing it on my own.
First off, I'd pull the coil packs, clean the lances thoroughly and check the plugs. I had mine do his about a week after I washed it, water on a lance was it, tracking across the dirt. Not saying this is your issue but its an easy check.
Reverse ramps up the pressure in the auto quite high and if everything's not perfect, the idle drops just enough to bog or even stall it. Waiting 5 seconds or so isn't bad as it lets the auto get lube everywhere and lets pressures stabilise.as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
First off, I'd pull the coil packs, clean the lances thoroughly and check the plugs. I had mine do his about a week after I washed it, water on a lance was it, tracking across the dirt. Not saying this is your issue but its an easy check.
Reverse ramps up the pressure in the auto quite high and if everything's not perfect, the idle drops just enough to bog or even stall it. Waiting 5 seconds or so isn't bad as it lets the auto get lube everywhere and lets pressures stabilise.as well.
Ok i will pull the coil packs and inspect for water. Ill keep you guys posted.
 

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Just a thought, did all this start after having the battery disconnected?
 

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Yes it did.
ok, this starts to make sense
disconnect battery
go have a coffee
reconnect battery
get in car, DO NOT touch any pedals
turn ign on, do not start
wait 40 seconds
start car
drive.

this resets the 0%, WOT and nominal 7% idle positions in the throttle body, and also resets fuel trim data. Expect rough running for a couple of days until it sorts out its mixtures but his might help the lumpy idle first thing.

or


drive it and it should come right in a couple of weeks
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
ok, this starts to make sense
disconnect battery
go have a coffee
reconnect battery
get in car, DO NOT touch any pedals
turn ign on, do not start
wait 40 seconds
start car
drive.

this resets the 0%, WOT and nominal 7% idle positions in the throttle body, and also resets fuel trim data. Expect rough running for a couple of days until it sorts out its mixtures but his might help the lumpy idle first thing.

or


drive it and it should come right in a couple of weeks
Ok so i could not get it to die today when i started it cold and put it in reverse immediately when i got off work. But the rough idle still happens regardless for 5 sec. then it will idle up to 1k rpm and settle down and not do it again until i cold start it in the morning.
I haven't checked the coil packs for water contamination yet. I will say that this rough idle was happening before i swapped in new spark plugs but that didnt fix the issues at hand.
It has always fired right up with zero stumbling then goes into 5 sec lumpy idle then revs up to 1-1300ish rpms then settles down like nothing happens and it runs great after that. This all happens with in 20ish seconds total.
 

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When was the last time you cleaned the throttle body and flap ? you will need to reset the ECU after cleaning...

If you have a scanner capable of live data, check the throttle position and input air, if more than ~8% you need to do the service..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When was the last time you cleaned the throttle body and flap ? you will need to reset the ECU after cleaning...

If you have a scanner capable of live data, check the throttle position and input air, if more than ~8% you need to do the service..
I have never cleaned it. It has 99k on the car but i have only owned it for 6 weeks.
 
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