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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a 1994 Samurai as a project and so far I love it. Everything's working so far except a few oil leaks but I think a couple new gasket's will fix that.

The problem i'm having is the CEL is on and when I put a fuse in the DIAG OK slot on the fuse panel the light didn't flash at all. an article I read says a steady on is an ECM problem, then I noticed the problem the fuel injected samurais have leaky capacitors inside the ECM. I'm hoping thats not the problem although it's something I think I may be able to fix.

My question is am I reading the code correctly because I read about people having to use jumpers to read codes? Also if the capacitor was leaking fluid causing the ECM to go bad, wouldn't it shut off abruptly instead of driving fine and throwing a code?

What could the problem be with the ECM and how do I fix it?


Off Topic: I need to fix the swaying from side to side at 45+ MPH. would new bushings help fix this or a steering stabilizer? I've been using this to get to work on the highway and I just about crap my pants when I hit a bump at 65MPH and sway all over the place.
 

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my NAG Lamp stuck ON page? The kick-fix site is a great reference for the Samurai EFI trucks as everything is the same on the 8v engines except for the engine size.

On the swaying, check to make sure that you have a sway bar. Also check to see if your shocks and steering stabilizer are in good condition. My guess is they are not. The sway bar is often removed to increase suspension flex, but the ride can be hairy if you are not used to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea I found the switch and I already tried switching it but the light stays on thats why I took the next step into reading the codes. It stays on so i'm guessing it's the ECM. I guess what i'm looking for is a how-to for fixing the ecm or finding out whats causing the ecm to throw a code before I fork out the money to rebuild the ecm to only find out it was a grounding issue.
 

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On the 94' model you need to jump the connector. With the key switch OFF use a small wire, (I use a paper clip) to jump the #2 and #3 terminals on the plug. The plug is located next to the battery on the firewall. It's a small white squire connector just hanging there. Turn the key switch to ON and the code should flash the check engine light.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Just took a look under the hood and I didn't see and white boxes near the battery on the firewall, in fact I didn't see any white boxes anywhere on the car.
 

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It's not a box. It's just an open plug with 4 wires running into it. Mine is at the firewall directly behind the battery. You might have to move the battery to find it. It might also have a rubber boot covering the end to keep moisture out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea I was able to pull up the PDF but what am I looking for? I found where it says how to check the codes but now I need to know where and how to fix the MAP sensor pressure too high issue.
 

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Did you do the tests on page 4A-49 & 4A-90 for the code 31?

If you don't have a wiring or hose routing problem, then it would appear that the either the MAP pressure sensor or the ECM is bad.

Below is an image of the map sensor. That little ring on the vacuum hose is a one-way valve. Make sure that everything looks the same and that the other end of the hose goes to the base of the TBI.

 

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Discussion Starter #13
Unfortunately I don't have a volt meter available now but I'll have to test it later. I'm hoping it's the sensor not the ECM!! Much cheaper to replace the sensor. The one way valve though isn't so one way. I was able to blow air through both directions. It said the pressure was too high so I thought reversing the valve would fix it and did for about 10 minutes! Hoses are clear and in good condition. I'll have to try the voltage test I guess unless you think the valve might be the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Haptown I really appreciate your help! I wasnt able to test the MAP sensor with a volt meter but I found one new online for about $80 I may just replace it. Hopefully that gets rid of the CEL! Next on my list is a couple gaskets a new soft top and new passenger window and I'll be set!

Before I replace the MAP sensor is there a chance something is wrong with the engine causing the map sensor to throw a code?
 

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The filter/one-way valve should only allow air to flow toward the TBI. If you can blow air both ways (hopefully you are using your month and not an air compressor), then that needs to be fixed first before spending money on the MAP sensor. In the link above, the post by jtgh (kick-fix.com) explains it. He even give the Suzuki part number, and I would imagine any Suzuki Metro in a junk yard would use the same one.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I was able to blow through both directions. I'll pick one up from a junk yard. Even if air did blow through both directions why would it say pressure too high? Could it be it's contaminated air in the sensor causing it to misread the pressure?? Please excuse my ignorance with this topic I'm more of an exterior modification kinda guy.
 

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The best that I can figure out is that the filter smooths out the vacuum pulses to the sensor.

And it appears that Mazdas and Toyotas from the same period probably use the same filter based on some pictures that I viewed. If there is an arrow, it should point away from the sensor as it indicates the desired air flow direction.
 
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