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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a 94 tracker 16valve that has raw fuel in the exhaust and oil. I replaced number 1 injector and fuel pressure regulator. Also did new plugs cap rotor and oil change. Problem still exits and in not sure where to go next. Fuel mileage is terrible. Any suggestions would be a major help.
 

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Sounds as if you have a ground in the wiring going to the injector.
Pull the air cleaner and check to see if the injector is leaking fuel after you turn the ignition off.
It's a start anyway.

Don

^_^

.
 

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Welcome to the forum. I suppose I might initially start with a compression test, as it’s usually a good idea to verify engine timing before going further. And an inspection of the spark plugs would indicate if this is across all cylinders, or one that’s causing the problem. It would also be a good idea to check your fuel pressure - spec is 34-41 psi.
Was there some reason why out of the 4 injectors that you have, you replace #1?? And out of curiosity, is your check engine light on with the key on, and off once the engine starts?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I did a compression test which passed. I changed number 1 injector because with removal of plugs and cranking the engine that cylinder had the most vapor commimg out. That's also the cylinder which spark plug is most fouled. I know that I have spark. I just can't figure out why so much fuel would be coming out of the exhaust. A heavy smoke cloud when the engine revs. No check engine light. I tried to jump the harness to see if a code showed up but did not.
 

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Use a NOID light, or a LED test light and check for trigger on the injectors, if you have a grounded trigger line with the light in parallel the test light will not flicker, in series the light will be constantly lite...

DO NOT apply battery power to the injector circuit, costly damage may occur.

... Philip
 

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And what does ‘compression test passed’, actually mean? What was the compression??
 

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What should it be. And if its to low does that mean bad timing?
I'm going from memory, but, I think minimum is 170. Valve timing could be out. Check that and valve adjustment.
 

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and how did you do the compression test? fuel and ignition disabled, WOT cranked until gauge stopped rising? or did you just attach the gauge and crank? hot or cold engine? wet or dry test?
 

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And battery full charged.
 

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ok, should be around 150 psi or higher cold.
 

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On the 16v engine, the cold compression should be 170psi, and warm engine 190psi. ON the 8v engine, cold compression is 150psi and warm engine 170psi.
You’ve got the 16v engine. While it’s possible that your valve lash is really in need of adjustment (instructions on the forum), it may be just as likely that your timing belt may have been timed to the wrong mark. ON your cam pulley, there are 2 marks - E or 60 and I or 80. The cam pulley is used on 2 different engines. On our engines, we time to the E or 60 mark. If timed to the others, it will knock your timing out about 90º. I’d check that.

Confirm that when you did your compression test, you had all spark plugs removed, the FI fuse removed, and that your floored the gas pedal while cranking for best compression. You should actually post your numbers, cylinder by cylinder. You may also want to try a wet test, by putting a teaspoon of oil in each plug hole to see if the compression comes up. But if your numbers are that low, across the board, I would guess you may be timed to the wrong cam mark.
 
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