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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey all, new member here and my first post! Ive got myself a 1992 tracker that I bought a year or so ago as a beat down 2wd and over last winter I converted to a 4wd did a lift and Calmini cage and some little odds and ends. Love the little thing and my kids love it even more (money well spent).

My little problem with it is, upon cold start (and cold temps below 40* F) it will run very rich and bog out under load. Only for a few seconds and runs normally after warm. quick edit: NO CEL

As a back ground, it cold starts and idles @ 2500rpm slowly reduces idle throughout warm up to 800 when warm. Timingbelt, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter all new and timing set properly, valves adjusted properly(had the mechanics @ the Gm dealer I work @ set the valves).

I've read a few posts pointing to the IAC as the likely culprit. So basically I'm looking for suggested test I should perform??

Oh and as a background on myself, I'm not a mechanic, but I'm fairly capable. I've done some diagnostic repairs on my buell with success, with any luck I can handle the Geo as their EFI systems are about equally as simple. So thanks in advance for the help.
 

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Are your spark plugs gapped to .028"? When the car starts from cold, while it is still bogging, have you turned the car off and pulled the plugs to see if the car is flooding? Have you ever cleaned the EGR circuit (although this would normally cause it to bog all the time, some things are magnified solely at cold start). If you have the 8v, your car should start as your does, then within 10 seconds or so, you should hear the throttle opener close, and the idle should drop to about 1500 rpm or so, and then slowly reduce to 800rpm warm idle. I will assume that a GM tech would understand this car, although, frankly, these cars are not supported well by GM at all - they are really Suzuki Sidekicks. My first test, just to confirm that your engine foundation is good, would be a compression test. The term 'IAC' can be confusing, as it is interchangeably used for the idle speed solenoid (electronic) and the idle air valve (mechanical, which is only used at cold start). You can somewhat check the idle speed solenoid by idling the car and turning on the headlights and fan blower on high, and seeing what the idle does. It should not drop appreciably, as a properly working ISC will maintain idle while a load is on the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey thanks for the reply bex. I'm pretty sure the plugs are gapped properly, never have pulled them to check for flooding. Probably don't need too... Im running "off road" no cat. exhaust (home made), so it gives me a real good smell of gasoline when its doing this, most likely flooding a bit, has never died completely though. Plugs aren't very old, but I should pull em and clean em I bet they're a bit sooty(theres one check on the list).
Had the shop check the compression when I first bought the tracker, its kinda the first thing I do when I but something old and abused, I don't remember the numbers, but I know it checked out fine.

What you said about the ISC has me wondering. I have retrofitted an electric fan from a chevy cobalt using a hayden fan controller on my tracker, and when it kicks on it does lower the idle RPM probably close to 100 rpm lower. I'm sure this is a pretty big load on the the stock alternator, but I had assumed it was normal to bog down a bit, maybe its not??? So how should I go about checking out the ISC?
 

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I've done some diagnostic repairs on my buell with success
BUELL! Which model? Here's my XB9R.



Anyway, when my Sidekick is cold and idling high by design It'll bog down for a couple of seconds if I let off the clutch too quickly (which would otherwise be normal if warm) off a stop.
 

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To be honest, rather than saying 'compression checked out fine', 'I'm sure plugs are gapped ok', you really need to check this. Some people think 140psi compression is 'fine', and it is folly to try to diagnose issues without having confirmation of the foundation of proper timing. If your electric fan is only dropping the rpm about 100rpm, the ISC is probably still ok. You can check the circuit to it by pinching the vacuum hose that runs to it from the air pipe at the air filter - your idle should drop considerably. You can also remove the ISC from the car and clean it carefully with carb cleaner (there is a small plunger inside that vibrates and sometimes gets stuck with carbon - if you shake the ISC it shouldn't rattle). Does your car heat up properly? Do you have great heat in the cab? Frankly, on the 92, the cat will not make a tremendous difference - no code will be thrown, and the 8v does run slightly 'dirty' anyway.
The number one cause of bogging on these cars is the EGR circuit. Have you ever removed the valve and cleaned it, as well as the intake and exhaust ports that are visible with the EGR off? If not, and even if this is not your issue, you should do so - 22 years of carbon has accumulated there, probably.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your proobably right Bex, when the weathers a little warmer (like more than 0*) ill run those checks again and maybe clean up the egr system. The heat is pretty good, i would say liveable, i am running a new thermostat and did a recent coolant system flush.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BUELL! Which model? Here's my XB9R.



Anyway, when my Sidekick is cold and idling high by design It'll bog down for a couple of seconds if I let off the clutch too quickly (which would otherwise be normal if warm) off a stop.


07' xb12x
thats a good lookin 9r, one of my favorite color schemes
 
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