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Discussion Starter #1
Folks, I have been reading here for over a week, now. I got to page 45 in this forum. I am new to Suzuki Samurais, I was a VW Type I enthusiast for several years, then got out of the car hobby, family, job, etc. This past Friday I paid $1800 for a stock 1988 SJ413. My new top should be here this Friday. Weber 34/34 should be here, today, Shift sheet and bolt kit from Petroworks should be here Friday, also. I will order the Thorley exhaust next week. Also going to purchase a used 1.3 or 1.6 for a rebuild, might also get a tranny and transfer case. I have been reading and searching on lift kits. My intended use is daily-driver with some logging road, light trail riding with my 9 year old this spring/summer. I am also looking at the various fiberglass hard tops. I will be posting and participating as this project takes shape, lots of knowledgeable folks on here. I may need the most assistance with body/metal work. The rockers are trashed(rust) and the rear quarters are eaten up. I would like to take it down the metal, weld it up, sand, prime and paint. I don't need the tallest lift, maybe 2" and I'd like to get the best ride I can. I think if I can get 80 to 90 BHP, I should be able to drive the highways without much trouble. I think the Harley(Keihin) 44mm CV will be for the newly rebuilt, Weber should suffice on the old engine. I am just looking for recommendations based on experiences and some guidance/recommendations for battling rust on these little jeeps.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I also meant to add that I have bookmarked Ack's FAQ site, tons of great info in there!!! I'll try to post up some before pics and track progress, here.
 

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Awesome! I have welder envy... so that's really cool in my book that you have the option of fabricating stuff for your rig. Pretty much all my stuff is bolt on.

Unless you're rock crawling or driving on soft sand, you don't need a wide tire. The 9.5 or 10.5 wide will give you better preformance on-road and on logging trails. A 30" tall tire will be good for your application and the 2 inch lift. With a 30" tire you won't need to worry too much about power. A lower gear transfer case will do you a world of difference with larger tires on-road and off road, but with 30's you wouldn't need to go too extreme. The GRS2 seems to be a good T-case for mild wheeling and it gives you freeway use of your 5th gear with the bigger tires.

For a good riding lift for your needs I would recommend the YJ spring conversion with spring UNDER axel. Spring over gives you more lift but not as much stability. If you only need a couple inches then the Spring under YJ is the way to go and your rig will handle even better than mine.

There are a couple places that sell hard tops but they're about $850-$1000. (plus about $200 shippng) I see them used on ebay once in a while but never in my neck of the woods :( A roll cage is a good investment if you got kids in the back. I've never rolled mine, but if I do I know they won't be crushed. I stay on the trails so I don't bother with an exo-cage. Nothing really to wrap my rig around...

good bumper and sliders for the occasion you stray from the trail... it happens.

Winch for pulling jeeps out of trouble... it happens.

The thorely headders are a great investment and will help you get more preformance with everything from the stock carb to the CV carb.

Great projects lined up! welcome to the forums!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the kind welcome!

The Weber arrived today. I do not have an aftermarket fuel pump nor a fuel pressure regulator, I will seek the advice at the local Advance Auto store, guy there has a rock crawler buggy, Toyota based, but he knows a fellow with a Sammy. Anyway, need to test the pressure and regulate it to 3.5 PSI as per the instructions. Upon close inspection under the hood, I realized that the previous owner has omitted several vacuum lines with two serious leaks at the intake manifold(no lines, open nipples sucking air). I will read the vacuum line routing and replace, I have purchased 10 feet of line to replace all with new, anyway. On with the project, pics coming this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Found a second vacuum leak, open nipple in the intake. I am looking through Ack's FAQs, damn what a wealth of information!!! I may not have to post a question other than opinion, at all! Anyway, trying to find the correct routing from the section at Ack's, in the meantime, I used some new tubing, plugged it with a screw, had to adjust the idle as a result of these "corrections", will wait for the Weber install this weekend to replace the remainder vacuum lines with new and correct any routing errors! I hate when a shade-tree does stoopid things that we inherit and have to correct! It would be much easier to replace the lines if they were correct to begin with!!!
 

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if you have the samurai mechanical pump it's adequate for running the webber. I had a quad mikuni setup and the mechanical pump did fine on it. Any fuel your carb doesn't use the pump sends back to the tank through the bypass fuel return.

with the webber most of those vacuum lines will be capped off. acks faq has saved my bacon many times when sorting out vacuum lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got the Weber 34/34 installed and tuned. I would never have believed the difference that simply a carburetor can make, this thing will run with highway traffic and goes up hill at the speed limit!!! I did have to do quite a bit of fabrication to install the carb. The gaskets that come in the kit need to be trimmed to match the adapters and not restrict the flow and cause pooling in the intake. It did make an incredible difference in the mid-range performance. Installed the new black top to keep water out, it also looks better. Gonna install the stereo this week. I'll order a header and have new exhaust installed this next weekend. I also replaced the alternator belt. I am now investigating installing an electric fan in lieu of the clutch fan. My shift sheet/bolt kit has not yet arrived from Petroworks. I'll install that as soon as it arrives, too.
 

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You've been busy!!! I got my '87 a month or so ago, but I've been really watching the $$$ flow on this as I want to get it done for $3000, total.

Keep us posted. I especially want to know what kind of mileage you get from the carb.
 

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Where are you ordering your Thorley from? I ordered mine a month ago and am still waiting because apparently they're switching the header from chrome to ceramic coated and I guess they're behind. Just curious if you get yours before I get mine, I'll cancel my order and get it from wherever you order yours. And if you get your welding and rust taken care of, I'd pay you to do mine! How far is Lenoir from Culpeper, VA? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I will most likely order from Summit Racing, best price and great reputation for customer service. I don't want nor need chrome, I don't mind repainting as a part of maintenance. I barely have time for my project with my work schedule and family activities. I am an amateur welder at best, I would not feel comfortable welding someone else's vehicle. Mapquest shows 331 miles from Lenoir, NC to Culpeper, VA.
 

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You can get the Thorley 700Y header from Roadlessgear.com for $100 less than the 700Y from Summit. The pic at Roadless shows a chrome one, but like I said previously Thorley has switched to ceramic which is what Roadless will be sending me for the same price as the chrome. Just in case you want to spend that $100 on something else.
 

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The chrome will last for years and years. I've had mine for between 12 and 15 years. It may not look brand new but still is decent. No leaks etc.
 

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Maybe so, but from what they told me at Roadless, Thorley isn't even making it in chrome anymore. I thought ceramic was supposed to be better, is that not the case? I can't understand how it can be if they're offering it at the same price as chrome. But that's good to know about the longevity of your chrome one.
 

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The chrome ones just don't look nice after a few years, but they function just fine. Like gasjr, I've had mine for over 10 years. It's not rusty, or leaking.. it's just not shiney new looking.

Chrome is becoming a less popular look these days. Used to be that all the cool rims were chrome, now they're painted or anodized. Baking ceramic on the header is also less costly than having them chromed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Summit is cheaper on the Hedman or Pacesetter, Roadlessgear is cheaper on the ceramic coated Thorley, my bad. Again, I don't care what's popular, just looking for a little more pep from the 1.3l and it seems to be doing well from just the carb upgrade, plans for the torquer cam with new rockers and a simple rebuild to include water pump, oil pump, bearings, and timing set after I do just the exhaust. I want to see the difference in performance after each change. I would like to change the vacuum advance to a mechanical advance distributor, but I can't find anybody that sells them. I have seen the threads on some boards regarding Small Block Chevy springs and clearancing the plate to convert the stock ones. I may read up on that mod.
 

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The header is the best cheap power mod you can do. If you don't have to be CARB legal in your state then you have a wide selection. If you need to meet CARB standards then you are limited to just the Thorely headders. They all will do just about the same preformance-wise.

The 40/40 doesn't have ported vacuum for your dizzy, but curving the mechanical advance will help compensate for the lack of vacuum advance. The other option would be to drill out the throttle body ported vacuum but that's something I can't offer info on.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
As I understand it, you must port the throttle body prior to the butterfly valve(s), this will allow throttle position to determine the amount of advance, if you port the manifold or anything after the butterfly valve(s), then you have a constant state of advance, so no curve because of the negative pressure constant in the manifold.

This site is awesome, I'm no expert, by any means, but this is a nice exchange of opinions and ideas!!! Thanks to all who participate.
 

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thats correct on the vacuum advance. The issue is getting the hole size the correct diameter to pull your dizzy. Too much vacuum and you advance it too much, to small a diameter and you won't pull enough. There is some info on porting it that I read on another site, but The diameter of the port is very precise and I havn't seen any specs from anyone that has done it on a samurai.
 
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