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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hiya, alas i think my clutch has started slipping, ive been warned about this so ive been looking out for it and although the gearchange is quite smooth it does seem to slip on hard acceleration now.
(Its a 2008 suzuki swift m13a engine)

Its not a cable operated clutch i can adjust on these initially is it at all?

And assuming i need a clutch change are there any other things i need to do peculiar to these swifts at the sametime eg. Do people generally recommend upgrading to an M15a gearbox on these for example at the sametime?

TIA
 

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Hi, just to chime in here, I had exactly the same problem on an 2010 a few weeks back, its hydraulic so nothing to adjust.
I changed the clutch in a day (enthusisatic amatuer) and it really wasnt too hard if youve got a decent toolkit. Plenty of access. Not too heavy. I needed an extra pair of hands to steady the gearbox on the way back in though. Another tip I found was to make sure you cable tie / secure the release bearing arm, else if you knock it the bearing will come off the shaft, and will jam / stop the box going back on. hth.
 

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Hi, just to chime in here, I had exactly the same problem on an 2010 a few weeks back, its hydraulic so nothing to adjust.
Just thought I'd mention it - whilst there might be no adjustment on this clutch, there are hydraulic clutches that do require adjustment, so it's incorrect to state, it's hydraulic, so nothing to adjust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks v much for replying, good work and well done to you there, apart from the usual full clutch kit of friction disc pressure plate and release bearing, is there anything else on these worth replacing or at least double checking at the sametime eg. arent the gearboxes/input shafts supposed to be a slight weak link on these, or anything else at all?

Thanks a lot
 

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Look for any leaks, bright posts indicating rubbing and notches on the splines where the clutch p,ate rides. Clean everything and I apply a bit of dry lube to the splines before re assembly. Must be a dry lube, theres a fair bit of dust in the bell housing. Any tacky or wet lube attracts it, making clutch operation stiffer as tine goes on. If your throw out bearings on a shaft with a pivot, check pivot point for wear and cracking, very high stress points, this is the one place you use grease!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey thanks v much for your input, ive never done one before, so what would a 'dry' lube you use entail then cant quite think off the top of my head? But only use grease on the throw out bearing and pivot.

And yeah so no leaks anywhere is obviously good yeah, so to check the input shaft on the gearbox which ive heard can be a weakpoint on these boxes are you just making sure the seal isnt leaking and for play on it maybe?
No/any other checks you can do really on the gearbox to make sure its ok?

And the pilot bearing ive heard of some people changing too, is that checkable in anyway at all and easy to change if need be?

Thanks a lot for any tips
 

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Pilot bearings are usually sealed, no way to grease them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks v much for the tips, cheers, just looked into the pilot bearing so just check if it spins smoothly or change/grease up if poss, and generally check for any leaks.

Has anybody any idea if you can change the gearbox input shaft seal externally without taking the gearbox apart at all if necessary?

Or ive heard of people using/swapping to the m15 gearbox from the m13 cos its more reliable is there any truth in that and just a straight like for like swap?
TIA
 

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Pilot bearings are usually sealed, no way to grease them.
Unless its a needle roller type which some aftermarket kits come with
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks ill look out for that, ive realised that the clutch kit parts from the M13a and the M15a are the same part, if i find my input shaft bearing or seal is gone on my 1.3 gearbox does anyone know if the 1.5 gearbox is a direct uncomplicated swap at all and if it indeed is a more reliable unit?

And i presume you have to release a gearbox mount (because my car does clunk a bit when setting off) can anyone think of any other sensible useful unrelated jobs to tackle on my car whilst also undertaking the clutch too?

Thanks v much
 

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As before, look for anything loose, out of place, oily etc under the car
Mark 1 eyeball is a useful tool for spotting upcoming issues.
 
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