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Do you want/need a replacement OEM type Hitachi, or are you interested in a more affordable and/or performance enhancing carb?

If you are not subject to emissions inspections, there are several options.
 

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I'd try and rebuild the one you have. Your other choice is going to be having someone do it for you. They are not cheap. The electronic parts inside are the headache.

For example:

Carburetor and Fuel Injection

When Suzuki was still selling them, they listed for $1200.00, new.

Try Craigslist, EBay, etc.

Maybe somebody will chime in and give you some other places to try.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I found some places online with rebuilt ones for around $300. Just was wondering if anyone had any feedback on a site...
 

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I purchased mine here;
Suzuki Carburetors

It wasn't a California spec carb so it did not have the fitting for the vapor canister return, but I drilled a hole in the metal duct that runs to the air filter, put a vacuum line fitting in and ran the hose to that, and it passed emissions.

If your Sami is not California emissions, it is a non-issue, and they may have California-spec carbs now.

I also had to transfer some parts from the old to the new carb, but it was pretty simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the info Vader, I actually got the float unstuck. Now is there some sort of additive to clean up any gunk in the carb so there is less of a chance the float get stuck again?
 

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Thanks for the info Vader, I actually got the float unstuck. Now is there some sort of additive to clean up any gunk in the carb so there is less of a chance the float get stuck again?
I'm not a big believer in additives, but I have heard good things about Chevron's Techron additive. It has been shown to remove the deposits from fuel level sending unit rheostats. Some people on another car specific forum swear by it and have said it actually works. I hate to admit it, but I use it regularly in my Audi TT. Does it work? At least it hasn't hurt anything.
 

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i'm not a big believer in additives, but i have heard good things about chevron's techron additive. It has been shown to remove the deposits from fuel level sending unit rheostats. Some people on another car specific forum swear by it and have said it actually works. I hate to admit it, but i use it regularly in my audi tt. Does it work? At least it hasn't hurt anything.
god honest true story... My mom had a 86 buick skylark(tech 4 2.5l i believe). I was barrowing it to drive to work. It wouldnt start. Had to put throttle to the floor to get it running. 1000 rpm was all the faster it would run. Limped it to auto parts stores. Poured in chevron fuel inj cleaner... With car running. Idle smoothed out and ran fine to gas station a block away. Litterally 2min to fix it.

PS THE ONLY FUEL CLEANER I WILL USE. WELL SEAFOAM FOR FOGGING/INTAKE CLEANER.
 

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I did my own rebuild on one of mine. It took the parts from two Hitachi, to make one. The water choke element was no good on one and the fuel enrichment solenoid was burnt out on the other. Its a real b***h to get them all back together. The rebuild works well, but the Sami its on doesn't get much high speed driving, so, I can't brag about how well it actually performs.
But hey, it starts well, runs fine and doesn't have the sensitive float, like the Webers do.
 

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Thanks for the info Vader, I actually got the float unstuck. Now is there some sort of additive to clean up any gunk in the carb so there is less of a chance the float get stuck again?
I like Lucas for over the counter additives, but the best thing I've seen for gasoline engines is Lube Control's FP Plus

Our product range - LubeControl

It's kind of pricy compared to over the counter stuff, but a little goes a long way at 1 ounce for 10 gallons.
 
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