Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi Chaps,

I have purchased the following 2"/51mm body lift kit:
Sidekick: Body lift kit | George's Blog

This will be going on my '96, Auto, 1.6 Sidekick.

The stores are going to close for Christmas so I would like to do a bit of planning so I dont have any nasty surprises or get caught out not being able to purchase something.

So far I have noticed that the nudge bar and the front & rear bumpers will need some fab work.

What are your experiences of installing a 50mm lift kit and are there any surprises that you have encountered in doing your lift?

Thanks,
George
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
Looks like the same kit I bought from a website. I had troubles time to time when I lifted the body and tried to come back down on the puck and getting the "bolt" to catch the "nut." These are not exactly what you call nuts so it makes it complicated. Just have to lift in a different area. My advice is get something bigger than a 2x4, I even with a decent size managed to go in on my floor board... hammer fixed that though. If yours is a 2dr, other than the tranny shifter needing an extension you can still drive it afterwards just put it in 4hi before you begin but don't forget! Mine was a 5-speed so shifter boot stuff is still removed. To lazy.

Have fun, its 50F where I am at, not nice so do indoors!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your response Cody.
I see exactly what you mean about the bolts that are actually nuts.. not that the body has been lifted yet but it does look pretty straight forward.

Sadly as far as the 2x4 goes, I am legally limited by to 2" of lift - given the certification cost here it is about $400 USD and the only mod this time is the body lift, so it doesnt make sense.

I guess the information to take away from this is:
1. Work outside - check
2. Expect troubles with tranny knob (hahaha) can't say I've had to do this before!
3. Shift into 4-hi - check
4. Gear shifter - expect troubles.

There was one other thing I was wondering about - what sort of metal sheeting would be sufficiently tough enough to bringing the nurge bar and bumber bars up? 3 even 4 mm?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
For the rear I have seen people use 2" square tubing and drill a hole, and get a longer bolt... for the front custom fab mounts need to be made or raise it up and drill new holes... whichever is easier.

They said to check steering linkages and watch for other things like wire harnesses, I just unbolted mine from dash but did not notice it moving. I will say that I did not unbolt my gas filler tube and said ... ita stretch. Indeed it did and no other issues came about from doing it.

Guessing you mean in your counter it requires cert. to have lifted/modified vehicle? Ouch. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Certainly seems like a bit of a shame on my end but yes, wheel sizes, suspension, body lifts, and speedo all require certification.

I just managed to find the instructions that came along with the kit - goes through and lists anything wire harness, bolt and pipe that may be an issue.

As about the bolts up front, i'm kind of hoping that there nut-reverse - screws imply no drilling.

Here are my instructions:
1. Park the vehicle on level ground, and disconnect the battery.
2. Remove grille and headlights and remove the front body bolts.
3. Remove the steel sleeve from the front body mounts.
4. Un-bolt the brake pipe junction from the chassis – located on the right hand
side of the chassis just in front of the firewall.
5. Loosen the clamp bolts at either end of the steering shaft between the firewall
and steering box.
6. Un-clip any wiring from the firewall that runs to the engine.
7. Un-clip A/C piping from inner guard (if fitted).
8. Un-plug the O2 sensor.
9. Loosen the air intake pipe to the air-box.
10. V6 models: Un-bolt fuel lines from the body on the right hand side of the
engine bay. Remove the strut brace – inner arches will need to be trimmed to
re-fit the strut brace after body lift.
11. Remove the plastic console surrounding the gear levers in the cabin.
12. Remove the retaining rings which hold down the rubber gear lever boots.
13. Remove the front and rear bumpers.
14. Loosen the fuel filler hose clamps.
15. Remove the clips from the brake hose to the left front wheel, and pull the hose
free from the mounts.
16. Loosen and remove the other body mount bolts found behind the front wheels,
in front of the rear wheels, and at the rear of the chassis.
17. Slowly jack one side of the body up until there is just enough room to install
the spacer blocks. Take your time, and keep checking that no hoses or wires
are caught or getting stretched while jacking.
18. Remove the plastic sleeves from the body mount studs and install the spacer
blocks with the parts in this order: body, spacer block, rubber bush, chassis.
19. Glue two spacers (4 on LWB) in place between the mid body mounts using
black body adhesive / silicone.
20. Gently lower the body back on to the chassis and loosely fit the rubber bush
and supplied female tube bolts and washers to the studs, but do not tighten
fully.
21. Repeat for the other side of the body.
22. Install the new longer bolts in the front mounts.
23. Once all bolts are loosely fitted and aligned properly, tighten the bolts fully.
24. Bolt the brake pipe junction back onto the chassis. If both bolts will not line
up, move the block up one hole and install one bolt.
25. Tighten the steering shaft bolts.
26. Re-clip the wiring, A/C and O2 sensor back in.
27. Re-attach the intake pipe. 16 valve models may need the alloy intake pipe
spacing up to reduce tension on the hose.
28. Re-fit the gear lever boots and console. Check the transfer lever and gear
lever can select all gears without touching the body or console or popping
back out of gear. Fitting the inner transfer boot upside down can help with
this, or sometimes the levers will need to be re-bent or cut and welded to clear.
29. Re-fit the front and rear bumpers. If using the stock bumpers brackets will be
required to raise the bumper to match the body.
30. Tighten the fuel hose clamps.
31. Drill a 16mm hole in the left hand inner guard, 50mm below the original brake
hose hole. Undo the brake hose connection and move it to the lower hole.
32. Clip the brake line back into place.
33. Bleed the left hand front brakes.

To a certain point this is pretty generic to the majority of the kits :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
107 Posts
I Tore it off...wasn't doing anything...
So has anyone removed the shift levers and straightened them? My shifter is touching the body?
Options?
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top