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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,,,
A dramatic first post …

I bought an original owner Mazda Esteem wagon GLX with 106k miles and a clean carfax. I was a bit skeptical about buying a Suzuki (with no service records), but it was cheap, very clean, drove nicely, had decent power, had a lot of room for its size, and I figured it would be a good commuter. 200 miles before I bought it, the owner had the valve cover gasket replaced and the oil changed.

I drove it for 3 days and racked about 90 miles. Then on a cold morning a horrible noise was coming from the top end. Noise would vary with throttle position; very slight throttle angles were worst. Then it started detonating, then it stalled. No overheating and no idiot lights.

I pulled over and coasted to a stop. I checked the oil and it didn’t register on the dipstick. The oil that was splashed on the dipstick was black and smelled burnt. The day before, the oil was at the proper level and looked like honey.

I towed it home, jacked it up, crawled under, and found no evidence of oil leakage anywhere. Drained what was left of the oil (about two quarts of black oil with plenty of shiny bits in it). I figured due to the metal flakes in the oil, the motor was already history. Regardless, I put a few quarts of cheap fresh oil in and fired it up. It sounded fine so I took a drive. Ran properly for about ten miles, then started making horrible noises again. Drove another 5 miles to limp home. Checked the oil again. Same thing: oil was black and burned and had metal flakes, but the oil level didn’t drop. I haven’t inspected the engine yet. I’m nearly positive that it’s history.

I like this car, so rather than dumping it, I opted to purchase a used engine with a claimed 61k miles and 6 month warranty.

After a few hours in my driveway, I almost have the engine out. I’m having two problems so far that I’m hoping someone can help me with:

1) After freeing the circlips that secure the tripod joints, I can’t get the halfshafts free from their splines. They won’t compress enough to clear. The shop manual says that the half shafts don’t need to be fully removed for engine removal. Do I need to lower the engine partially in order to fully disconnect the halfshafts?

2) Shall I pull the engine from above? Or drop it out the bottom? I don’t have a chassis lift.

Thanks in advance for any help and I look forward to getting this cool little car back on the road…
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Hello everyone,,,
A dramatic first post …

I bought an original owner Mazda Esteem wagon GLX with 106k miles and a clean carfax. I was a bit skeptical about buying a Suzuki (with no service records), but it was cheap, very clean, drove nicely, had decent power, had a lot of room for its size, and I figured it would be a good commuter. 200 miles before I bought it, the owner had the valve cover gasket replaced and the oil changed.

I drove it for 3 days and racked about 90 miles. Then on a cold morning a horrible noise was coming from the top end. Noise would vary with throttle position; very slight throttle angles were worst. Then it started detonating, then it stalled. No overheating and no idiot lights.

I pulled over and coasted to a stop. I checked the oil and it didn’t register on the dipstick.xvideos.onl/ xnxx.onl/ chaturbate.onl/ The oil that was splashed on the dipstick was black and smelled burnt. The day before, the oil was at the proper level and looked like honey.

I towed it home, jacked it up, crawled under, and found no evidence of oil leakage anywhere. Drained what was left of the oil (about two quarts of black oil with plenty of shiny bits in it). I figured due to the metal flakes in the oil, the motor was already history. Regardless, I put a few quarts of cheap fresh oil in and fired it up. It sounded fine so I took a drive. Ran properly for about ten miles, then started making horrible noises again. Drove another 5 miles to limp home. Checked the oil again. Same thing: oil was black and burned and had metal flakes, but the oil level didn’t drop. I haven’t inspected the engine yet. I’m nearly positive that it’s history.

I like this car, so rather than dumping it, I opted to purchase a used engine with a claimed 61k miles and 6 month warranty.

After a few hours in my driveway, I almost have the engine out. I’m having two problems so far that I’m hoping someone can help me with:

1) After freeing the circlips that secure the tripod joints, I can’t get the halfshafts free from their splines. They won’t compress enough to clear. The shop manual says that the half shafts don’t need to be fully removed for engine removal. Do I need to lower the engine partially in order to fully disconnect the halfshafts?

2) Shall I pull the engine from above? Or drop it out the bottom? I don’t have a chassis lift.

Thanks in advance for any help and I look forward to getting this cool little car back on the road…

Thank you my issue has been solved,...
 

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I bought an original owner Mazda Esteem wagon GLX with 106k miles
Glad to hear you got it sorted and like the car so well to make the effort, and are able to do it yourself with out a lift, very impressive.

Those "Mazda" Esteem GLX's are pretty rare :D so I'm pleased to see you are keeping it on the road with an engine transplant.

I may be doing the same thing in the next few months, my GLX had a rough January. I find my wagon has the qualities you describe and would like to keep it as long as possible. A good selection of used engines and transmissions to choose from.
 

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Thank you my issue has been solved,...
so, how was your issue solved? all you did was respond to your own post with this statement. How about letting the rest of the members know what you did.
 
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