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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Im wanting to do a spoa lift but considering using yj springs, I will be using it both on and offroad. I was wondering what i will need to do this,

1) spoa lift: Which company is best and wil be compatable with yj springs what else do i need (I can weld and will be installing myself)
2) will the sky 4.5 spring pads work with yj springs what else do i need
3) Which shakles should i use
4) how many driveline spacers and sizes do i need
5) braklines i have covered
6) shock mount kit looking at sky mfg is this good choice or is there a cheaper kit
7) Is there anything else or known problems when trying to do this lift anything will help
Thanks
 

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there are kits from places like RRO that are going to be less expensive, but you get what you pay for. Sketchy customer support is a bad thing... especially when the company is prone to packing issues, poor build quality, and shipping kits missing parts and directions.

TT is a good solid kit and Brent is awsome with support and tech.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok thanks but the tt kit for 1300 is a little more then i wanna spend.. my main question is if i get a spoa kit say from sky mfg can i use those same spring pads with the wrangler springs with the use of missing links.
 

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The way your question is worded - no.

You can use the perches/pads, but just throwing on a set of missing links isn't going to solve the length problem (completely) or the spring width problem. You have to move the front of the rear spring forward (brackets) to center the axle in the wheel well also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok so with the missing links comes the brackets correct? so do the missing links bolt into the factory spring hangers or do i have to weld the brackets further forward to get the axle to move forward?
 

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ok so with the missing links comes the brackets correct? so do the missing links bolt into the factory spring hangers or do i have to weld the brackets further forward to get the axle to move forward?
First off, no. The brackets I am talking about is a forward relocation bracket and it moves spring mount farther forward. They are not part of the missing link kits... check out the bracket mounted in front of the rear tire in this pic.


The vehicle in the pic is actually using CJ rears, so Wrangler springs will be longer and wider.

And the missing links you need have to be set up for the wide (2.5") wrangler spring AND the narrow (2") suzuki spring hanger. These are not standard missing links... This is one of the reasons I suggested getting the kit.

I don't know what your experiance level is, but unless you are comfortable with building custom suspension components from scratch and trusting it to be bulletproof on the road and trail - I would suggest getting the kit and trusting the engineering done by the vendor. Too many people try to go 'cheap' and then they end up being 'That Guy' on the trail that people try to avoid. If you are a great fabricator, I apoligize. But I have had to fix too many cheap suspension 'homebrews' on the trail just to get the group through to the end.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ok thanks youve been a big help. Well i was considering this lift because of the overall ride quality and great amount of flex, is there any other lifts that will be somewhat comparable in ride quality maybe at a cheaper price? Im located in ky so most wheeling is lots of ruts creekbeds mud and such just looking at good quality lift that will serve for both decent performance on and off road. Also considering of runnin hopefully 33's in which i already have from a previous truck. however wouldnt mind runnin 31 if it provides enough clearence for most trails such at haspin acres or lbl in western ky
 

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A good, less expensive option is running a RUF conversion. That stands for Rears Up Front. You take your rear springs, remove the overload leafs (thicker, upside-down lookin ones on the bottom) and move tthose spring packs to the front. You use a set of drop shackles (Missing Links) to make them fit. You can then pull the second leaf from each front pack and add them to the rear packs you just installed up front. This will help with strength and ride height.
Then you get a set of FRONT CJ springs and install them out back. Use another set of drop shackles back there to make THEM fit. Depending on the drop shackles, you just raised your vehicle up about 2 inches. Now if you add a SPOA installation to it you will go up another 4.5". Just remember not to cut costs on a quality high steer solution.

Take a look at everything that is included in the bigger (more expensive) kits. You will need 95% of that equipment to be safe, smooth andable to articulate. It is up to you how you get the equipment. there is a reason they have alot of components in the kits... they have already done the homework for you.
If you save up and get a complete kit, great. If not, buy what you can afford and don't stop until you have all the parts. You said you already have the brakes handled, so you are already part way there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So i think im going to go with sky mfg stage 2 spoa is this a good choice? NEXt i want to improve ride quality as mentioned before. So your saying to do a ruf with cj in rear is there anyway you can list what i will need to do this conversionand which mfg you found to be the best. Or if there is a kit Still wanting to keep cost as low as possible. Also should doing the listed suspension mods with this give sufficent up and down travel needed for 31's or would i be able to fit the 33's as i mentioned earlier.
Thanks
 

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That is a decent kit. just remember to put most of the heat to the spring perch legs where they meet the old perches. That way you don't punch through the axle housing with the welder...
I like how he added the steering solution. That will keep people out of trouble.

You just need a set of drop shackles to do the conversion for RUF.
Sky also has Wrangler front and rear kits you can do if you really want a smoother ride. The kits are not as good as the TT kit, but it is definately less expensive. Either will work with the SPOA kit you are looking at.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
A good, less expensive option is running a RUF conversion. That stands for Rears Up Front. You take your rear springs, remove the overload leafs (thicker, upside-down lookin ones on the bottom) and move tthose spring packs to the front. You use a set of drop shackles (Missing Links) to make them fit. You can then pull the second leaf from each front pack and add them to the rear packs you just installed up front. This will help with strength and ride height.
Then you get a set of FRONT CJ springs and install them out back. Use another set of drop shackles back there to make THEM fit. Depending on the drop shackles, you just raised your vehicle up about 2 inches. Now if you add a SPOA installation to it you will go up another 4.5". Just remember not to cut costs on a quality high steer solution.

Take a look at everything that is included in the bigger (more expensive) kits. You will need 95% of that equipment to be safe, smooth andable to articulate. It is up to you how you get the equipment. there is a reason they have alot of components in the kits... they have already done the homework for you.
If you save up and get a complete kit, great. If not, buy what you can afford and don't stop until you have all the parts. You said you already have the brakes handled, so you are already part way there.

Also will this give me enough overall travel (up and down for 33's) or would it be a better choice for 31's however perfer the 33's since i got a somewhat decent set off of an old truck.
thanks
 

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It will definately give you enough room for 31's but you may have some rubbing with certain aggressive 33's. I am running the TT kit with a set of 33" Swampers and I ended up going to 2" lifted Wranglers to completely stop the rubbing at full articulation.



Note the angle of the rear axle in the shadow underneath...
 
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