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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hay guys,

just wanted to share with you latest mods to my Sammy. I installed Thorley headers, Flow Master muffler, 2" exaust pipes, and Weber Carb. I've also completely removed the Cat converter, which seemed to be completely clogged with dirt and caused huge pressure on the exaust.

Performance has leaped with those mods considerably.











And here's a short video:

Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
dont ya love how throaty it sounds!
Oh yeah! But I'm having a little problem with the carb. Seems I have a vacuum leak at the base where the adapters fit. When I spray Carb spray on it, the idle speed changes. I'm not sure how to fix it, I really don't want to go through taking off the carb again and all the adapters and fix the leak. I didn't do a very good job with sealing.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Oh yeah! But I'm having a little problem with the carb. Seems I have a vacuum leak at the base where the adapters fit. When I spray Carb spray on it, the idle speed changes. I'm not sure how to fix it, I really don't want to go through taking off the carb again and all the adapters and fix the leak. I didn't do a very good job with sealing.
Hay guys, any help with this would be appreciated. Experts, your advice? Billjohn, Baratacus, you're needed :)
 

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a lot of times the bolts on the adapter plate back out and the plate gets loose. Tightening the carb bolts won't help since the plate is secured with allen head bolts under the carb. If your adapter plate is sucking air then pull the carb off and put some thread lock on the allen head bolts and snug them down. some thread lock on the carb bolts isn't a bad idea either. Don't over tighten or you will crack the base of the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
a lot of times the bolts on the adapter plate back out and the plate gets loose. Tightening the carb bolts won't help since the plate is secured with allen head bolts under the carb. If your adapter plate is sucking air then pull the carb off and put some thread lock on the allen head bolts and snug them down. some thread lock on the carb bolts isn't a bad idea either. Don't over tighten or you will crack the base of the throttle body.
Thanks Baratacus. What is the ideal sealant to use with the gaskets? Is grease good? Should I apply it liberally or just to cover the surface? I just barely covered the surface when I did it.
 

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on my carburetor I never use sealant, i just clean both surfaces and put the gasket on dry. You'd need to use something that isn't going to break down when exposed to gasoline and can expand and contract with the metal as the temperature changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
on my carburetor I never use sealant, i just clean both surfaces and put the gasket on dry. You'd need to use something that isn't going to break down when exposed to gasoline and can expand and contract with the metal as the temperature changes.
Dry! That's amazing! How would you prevent the air from leaking? I tested with a carb spray and not surprisingly, the idling speed increased as I did, which proves that there is some leakage. While driving, whenever I depress the clutch the RPM drops very low and some times dies. I adjusted the idle speed screw and it is all the way in, and it is still doing that. My only explanation is that vacuum leakage.
 

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I totally agree that you probably have a vacuum leak at the base of the carb. I still use a gasket on my carb, I just don't use glue to seal it. Theres enough cussion with the gasket to keep the surfaces air tight if your mating surfaces are flat. If theres any debris or if the surface is warped or marred it wouldn't seal so well. If you wan't to use a gasket sealer then probably the same stuff you use for the intake manifold. Black RTV is what I use there. It's flexible solvant and coolant proof as well as temperature resillient.
 

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Is that on a stock 1.3L or a 1.6L? Was trying to decide myself to do that to a 1.3 or maybe just change to a 1.6L. If it's on a 1.3 did it make a big difference? Just wondering if it would be worth doing to a 1.3 or just swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I totally agree that you probably have a vacuum leak at the base of the carb. I still use a gasket on my carb, I just don't use glue to seal it. Theres enough cussion with the gasket to keep the surfaces air tight if your mating surfaces are flat. If theres any debris or if the surface is warped or marred it wouldn't seal so well. If you wan't to use a gasket sealer then probably the same stuff you use for the intake manifold. Black RTV is what I use there. It's flexible solvant and coolant proof as well as temperature resillient.
Problem is the installation manual says not to use glue as sealant, and it suggests using grease. I don't know what's the rationale for that, but it's just what it says. I do have RTV sealant, but was set back from using it by the manual.

Is that on a stock 1.3L or a 1.6L? Was trying to decide myself to do that to a 1.3 or maybe just change to a 1.6L. If it's on a 1.3 did it make a big difference? Just wondering if it would be worth doing to a 1.3 or just swap.
I'm doing it to a 1.3 engine. The performance difference is significant. Haven't done any measurements before and after for comparison, but I can really feel the difference. I can do donuts now on gravel, with 33" mud terrain tires, which I couldn't previously. The thing is, I'm upgrading my 1.3L engine with upgrades that can be transferred to a 1.6L engine, should I choose to do so. I am planning to upgrade to a 1.6, and I already bought the conversion bracket from Trail Tough.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I got it sorted out. You were right Baratacus, the adapter screws were slightly backed out. But also, the bigger problem was with the studs. I was missing two nuts with the kit, so I had to scavenge nuts from around my spare parts, and one of them was severely corroded. When I screwed into the stud, it pushed the stud hard against the adapter below it and caused a vacuum leak. I fixed it and added locktite on the threads of all screws, and voila! Problem solved.
 
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