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Hey , i have a 06 gv that im currently modifying to be 100% off-road , one of the big problem ive spotted while off-roading is the weak position of the rad , i do understand i could only protect it with metal plating , wich i eventually will do anyway, but i would like to relocate the rad for many reasons , and there was question i was asking my self , im not an engineer , i was thinking of using smaller rad and lift it , as for the trans cooler i would stack it in front of the aftermarket rad , but my question here is how smaller can i go without facing over heating issues , and if it can help i can make the fan to always be on thats not a problem, thx in advance
 

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I would strongly suggest you not switch to a smaller radiator. Off-road usage typically works the engine harder and generates more heat, all whilst moving at lower speeds which reduce forced air flow.
 
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The stock looks to be a single core radiator. Personally I find it rather thin and minimal. If you went to a 3-4 row you could put in a smaller radiator. Not exactly sure of what the ratings are and you would need to look into that detail. Bit it could for sure be done.
Let use know what you find and end up doing. I'm on number 3 and would like to have an alternative as well.
If keeping the A/c the condenser could be raised a small amount. Given the Canadian flag you might be okay without it.
 

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The stock looks to be a single core radiator. Personally I find it rather thin and minimal. If you went to a 3-4 row you could put in a smaller radiator. Not exactly sure of what the ratings are and you would need to look into that detail. Bit it could for sure be done.
Let use know what you find and end up doing. I'm on number 3 and would like to have an alternative as well.
If keeping the A/c the condenser could be raised a small amount. Given the Canadian flag you might be okay without it.
Yeah im also on number 3 , i think moving the condenser is possible and i would like to keep it but as its gonna be a 100% off-road im not really worried about it will definitely let u know
 

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The stock looks to be a single core radiator. Personally I find it rather thin and minimal. If you went to a 3-4 row you could put in a smaller radiator. Not exactly sure of what the ratings are and you would need to look into that detail. Bit it could for sure be done.
Let use know what you find and end up doing. I'm on number 3 and would like to have an alternative as well.
If keeping the A/c the condenser could be raised a small amount. Given the Canadian flag you might be okay without it.
stock radiator in mine is double row core. Do not go any smaller. go get some decent underbody armour to protect the underside
 

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Yeah im also on number 3 , i think moving the condenser is possible and i would like to keep it but as its gonna be a 100% off-road im not really worried about it will definitely let u know
Depending on how Off-road you are going to get, you could lift the vehicle using the chassis spacers and that would provide more space between you and the armor you add to the bottom. I had to weld on some iron as my skids just can't take a bashing.
Might work better if you incorporate a steel bumper and a bash plate.
 

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Depending on how Off-road you are going to get, you could lift the vehicle using the chassis spacers and that would provide more space between you and the armor you add to the bottom. I had to weld on some iron as my skids just can't take a bashing.
Might work better if you incorporate a steel bumper and a bash plate.
How do you chassis lift a 3G ? Its integral with the body
 

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The radiator is rather close to the bottom front of the GV. I have an Ironman front smash-guard with a ding on one corner. The ding isn't too far from the bottom of the radiator. If you hit something large and hard enough you will make a right mess of the whole bottom of the radiator. Just because no-one has mentioned that they have already done this yet doesn't mean it can't happen. When I remove the plate to beat the ding out I will look at it to see if it is possible to effectively strengthen it. The Ironman plate has scallops along the front and I reckon if you hit a shingle bank you could force enough material in and around to also embarrass you. Bullbars or similar might well help. At the moment you hit a large boulder at 30km and the radiator is history so it may not even be possible to do much about it.
If the radiator is a 2 core it might be possible to have one made with 3 to 4 cores but not so high. Bit of mucking around but not impossible.
 
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How do you chassis lift a 3G ? Its integral with the body
Basically they put spacers between the subframe and the suspension system. Remove the 4 bolts holding the front and rear to the chassis and add a 1-2" spacer. It's supposed to maintain travel and keep the geometry correct.
In addition you have to extend the brake lines, steering shaft, rear control arms, lift the engine and add radiator spacers.
This might not be considered safe for road use but if the rig is for only off-road, he might be good to do this set up.

Some more details here.

I was thinking I could add some 2" spacers, add the 2" lift from Rocky road and than add the OME lift springs for 3" of lift. Might work?
Keep in mind, I think if you have a V6 the front drive shaft will hit the exhaust but that's only from my observations. Someone would need to do the lift and take notes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The radiator is rather close to the bottom front of the GV. I have an Ironman front smash-guard with a ding on one corner. The ding isn't too far from the bottom of the radiator. If you hit something large and hard enough you will make a right mess of the whole bottom of the radiator. Just because no-one has mentioned that they have already done this yet doesn't mean it can't happen. When I remove the plate to beat the ding out I will look at it to see if it is possible to effectively strengthen it. The Ironman plate has scallops along the front and I reckon if you hit a shingle bank you could force enough material in and around to also embarrass you. Bullbars or similar might well help. At the moment you hit a large boulder at 30km and the radiator is history so it may not even be possible to do much about it.
If the radiator is a 2 core it might be possible to have one made with 3 to 4 cores but not so high. Bit of mucking around but not impossible.
Yeah most of the time it finds it way into the bottom of the rad , im going to try to look for some alternative as like a 3row rad and probably a better fan
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Basically they put spacers between the subframe and the suspension system. Remove the 4 bolts holding the front and rear to the chassis and add a 1-2" spacer. It's supposed to maintain travel and keep the geometry correct.
In addition you have to extend the brake lines, steering shaft, rear control arms, lift the engine and add radiator spacers.
This might not be considered safe for road use but if the rig is for only off-road, he might be good to do this set up.

Some more details here.

I was thinking I could add some 2" spacers, add the 2" lift from Rocky road and than add the OME lift springs for 3" of lift. Might work?
Keep in mind, I think if you have a V6 the front drive shaft will hit the exhaust but that's only from my observations. Someone would need to do the lift and take notes.
Thats an alternative but definitely alot of work , i like the idea
 

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Basically they put spacers between the subframe and the suspension system. Remove the 4 bolts holding the front and rear to the chassis and add a 1-2" spacer. It's supposed to maintain travel and keep the geometry correct.
In addition you have to extend the brake lines, steering shaft, rear control arms, lift the engine and add radiator spacers.
This might not be considered safe for road use but if the rig is for only off-road, he might be good to do this set up.

Some more details here.

I was thinking I could add some 2" spacers, add the 2" lift from Rocky road and than add the OME lift springs for 3" of lift. Might work?
Keep in mind, I think if you have a V6 the front drive shaft will hit the exhaust but that's only from my observations. Someone would need to do the lift and take notes.
OME kit wouldn't fit as the top strut mounts will be in the same location so you would need to use equivalent spacers for the top of the struts, not sure if rears mount to body or sub frame extension id have to climb under and look.
Massive work and you would also have to consider driveshaft lengths too as you're not lowering the transfer case and engine.
Its an interesting thought, but if you're going to this trouble id be buying a Jimmy and doing it properly
 
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