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Discussion Starter #1
Good day, I have a Suzuki escudo 1996, V6, 2.0. Currently it's starting fine but cuts after 4 seconds. The computer has been changed, the wire harnesses has been changed, the throttle body has been changed, fuel tank changed, plugs changed, camshaft position sensor changed, coils changed, relays has been checked. The only thing that have not been changed is the fact that it still does not stay idling. Any expert that has a different view out there your help will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Is this a cold start issue, a warm start issue, an intermittent issue or a persistent problem?

Will it stay running if you crack the throttle open? Do you have spark at the plugs after it cuts out? Will it stay running if you spray starting fluid into the intake?

Have any sort of diagnostics been done? Are there any ECU codes? What was the reason the various parts were replaced? Were the replacements new or used? If used were they known to be in good working order? If new were they genuine OEM or aftermarket? Did the symptoms change when the parts were replaced? Why was the harness changed? Which harness was changed?

Was any attempt made to correctly set the cold idle & IAC valve duty cycle - if not, why not?

I'm especially curious as to the reason for the part replacement and the sequence, since the one part I would have considered as a primary suspect (the IAC valve) has not been listed as replaced.

No - I don't consider myself an expert, but I would like to think I'm more familiar with the H20a than most folks ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Several so called mechanics have past on it, each would give a different diagnose, hence the reason why all those parts were changed. I'm no pro at this but I'm tired of being made spend money and the same problem still exist. I will look up the IAC value you mentioned and will get back to you.
Thanks
 

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If what you're looking for is assistance/guidance, you're going about it the wrong way - the reason for the questions is to get a better picture of what is going on - the answers guide the diagnosis, and you've answered none of them.

The idle speed on the vast majority of fuel injected engines is controlled by a device that allows a limited volume of air to bypass the throttle plate, this device is known by different names, with IAC (Idle Air Control) valve and ISC (Idle Speed Control) valve being the most common - on the H20a & H25a engines, Suzuki calls it an IAC valve, on the H27a, it's called an ISC valve - so yes, your 2.0 V6 does have an IAC valve.

Are you seriously telling me that someone diagnosed the fuel tank as the reason the engine cuts out after running for four seconds???

Something tells me I'm not getting the full story here.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The system were corroded since the jeep had been sitting there for a while. The vehicle was parked in a garage from since 2005. After starting, it drove for a short while and it has not held the idle since. They've been trying to rule out everything that could have caused the problem but none worked so far. That's why I'm asking around for advice. I love this suzuki, it takes you where others can't go.
 

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The system were corroded since the jeep had been sitting there for a while. The vehicle was parked in a garage from since 2005. After starting, it drove for a short while and it has not held the idle since. They've been trying to rule out everything that could have caused the problem but none worked so far. That's why I'm asking around for advice. I love this suzuki, it takes you where others can't go.
ahhhh....finally, a useful bit of information!!!


just starting a car and driving it thats been sitting for the better part of 14 years is just asking for trouble. Did anybody flush all the fuel lines / injector supply rails etc? BEFORE starting it? Change the oil and filter? check for sticking valves and corrosion in the cylinders?

What does it run like when you get it running? or will it not stay running?

we need answers to the questions we are asking otherwise we can't help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I bought the vehicle because the body was in such good shape. But they had done so much on it before i bought it. They changed the tank and cleaned the injectors after they started it. I have checked the lines and there is good pressure with fuel coming through. We checked the plugs, all are getting power. After starting it today, I realized that rpm would fluctuate before the check light comes on and shuts off.
 

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If the car had been sitting for 4 years, and then started with the fuel that was in the fuel tank, which, after 4 years would essentially have turned into a sticky varnish, this varnish would have been spread through the fuel system. This would need to be flushed out and corrected. I’d also confirm that you have good exhaust flow, as if the exhaust is obstructed, the engine may start but stall pretty quickly.
By the way, Suzuki was kind enough to have a code 24 (vehicle speed sensor) and a code 42 (cam sensor in the distributor). There will be a longer pause in between codes, so confirm that your’s is actually a code 24.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The fuel lines are free, the exhaust was also checked. I don't think this manual code check is working. It keeps on changing, gave me 1-2 or 12, blinked once and then twice. There's no code 12 or 1-2 on the chart.
 

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The fuel lines are free, the exhaust was also checked. I don't think this manual code check is working. It keeps on changing, gave me 1-2 or 12, blinked once and then twice. There's no code 12 or 1-2 on the chart.
code 12 is the "all ok" code, its on the chart...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So if all is ok, why can't it stay in idle. Why cut off? I also realize the rpm fluctuating, would pick up a high rev when starts and would drop before it goes off.
 

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So if all is ok, why can't it stay in idle. Why cut off? I also realize the rpm fluctuating, would pick up a high rev when starts and would drop before it goes off.
obd1 codes are only for gross errors and emissions stuff. There are a multitude of reasons why it won't keep running.

you still haven't told us if you can re-start it immediately and if it keeps running if you press the gas pedal.

How about you describe all the symptoms, and what its actually doing and then we might be able to help.

I'm not going to bother guessing as to any possible cause of your issues until you actually give us more than "it won't keep running after x seconds"

it took how many posts before you finally let slip that it had been sitting for 14 years?

How about helping yourself and actually providing some information so we can help you.

until you help us by providing information, we can't do anything more.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Ok so I'm giving the information as it comes because I bought the vehicle as is. I know it's a problem that can be fixed.
It starts with one stroke of the key every time.
If I press the gas pedal immediately after it starts, it will rev, but still goes off in 4 to 5 sec.
I don't know what more i can say because i feel I've said all I know.
However I can respond to questions one would ask as we go along.
I'm not a mechanic, just an average joe looking for answers and questions that may lead me to the solution.
Thank you
One more thing,
I placed it in drive after I started it, it stayed on for about 10 seconds but still goes off every time.
 

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If I press the gas pedal immediately after it starts, it will rev, but still goes off in 4 to 5 sec.
<SNIP>
However I can respond to questions one would ask as we go along.
<SNIP>
There have been many questions asked that have gone unanswered - here are a few more...

Will it restart immediately after it stalls?
Do you have spark at the plugs after it stalls? For more than 4~5 secs?
Will it stay running if you spray starting fluid into the intake?
Have you checked fuel pressure?

Do you have a spare igniter module or can you get one to borrow?
 

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Try one of Fordem’s suggestions - spray starter fluid into the intake (or at the brake booster hose) and see if you can keep the engine running for as long as you spray.
As well as answering the other questions....lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Some of these questions have been answered.
It starts immediately after it stalls.
We've tested the plugs, they are firing.
The fuel pressure is fine.
I have not tried spraying starting fluid but is it necessary because the vehicle starts without any problems, it just goes off after 4 sec.
I don't have the igniter module you speak of.
Will find out
 

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The engine starts & stops after 4~5 seconds, it will restart immediately, but will not continue to run if the throttle is opened.

From this we can gather a number of things ...

1) you initially have fuel injection & spark.
2) you loose either spark or fuel after 4~5 seconds.

The challenge is now to determine which of the two conditions is causing your problem and the easiest way to do that is using starter fluid.

The idea behind spraying starter fluid into the intake, is not to get the engine to start, but to see if it will continue to run beyond the 4~5 seconds - an engine with a fuel related issue will typically continue to run for as long as starter fluid is being sprayed.

If your engine continues to run on starter fluid then we know spark is not the issue but fuel is and we can focus our attention on that. If the engine won't run on starter fluid then we focus on the ignition side of things.

Next - you say fuel pressure is fine - how do you know that? What are the numbers? Cranking pressure? running pressure? do you know what should these numbers be? how long does the system hold pressure for after the engine dies?

And just for good measure - has the fuel filter been changed - you haven't mentioned that...
 
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