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2003 suzuki vitara 2.0 5 speed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys so we took appart my transmission because i had bad vibrations when releasing the clutch and it came into gear, we found out that the pilot bearing had eating up the main shaft sleeve and it was all eaten up, we decided do sand it back as smooth as possible and i had the flywheel machined back to new and a new exedy clutch kit new slave cylinder new pilot bearing, everything fine for a week then problem started back again, lets say i put in reverse and let go up the clutch it vibrated for 2 ou 3 seconds or when i downshift into a gear and release the clutch it vibrates but only when the clutch slips. I found a replacement shaft but still seems scored is this fixable and is this my problem or could there be something else i cant see
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What I'm seeing in the picture appears to be the "snout" of the "input shaft bearing retainer", and I really don't think that the scoring there can cause any vibration during clutch engagement/disengagement - either your picture doesn't show us the part of the input shaft you're concerned about, or, you're looking in the wrong place for the problem.

By the way - the "pilot bearing" doesn't go anywhere near the "main shaft", so I am a little concerned about the knowledge & experience levels of the parties doing the work.
 

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That area of your input shaft housing that you picture centers / rests the release bearing. There isn't a rotating transmission surface contact there, unless you have fork or release bearing problems to contend with.

From the SQ Series 2 vol Service Manual set available from the top FAQ thread...

Font Rectangle Schematic Parallel Engineering

Another (not so pretty) view...

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HI Nikolav, have you checked the universal joints on the tailshafts. If they are worn they will give the symptoms you describe. If they are really bad the car will vibrate while driving along too.
good luck
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
HI Nikolav, have you checked the universal joints on the tailshafts. If they are worn they will give the symptoms you describe. If they are really bad the car will vibrate while driving along too.
good luck
Pete
What do you mean on the tailshafts, you mean at the rear? We checked them and they seem fine but i do notice a low vibration from the back at higher speeds but how could thia cause my suzuki to vibrate when shifting or backing up ou leaving from a stop when clutch starts to engage
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What I'm seeing in the picture appears to be the "snout" of the "input shaft bearing retainer", and I really don't think that the scoring there can cause any vibration during clutch engagement/disengagement - either your picture doesn't show us the part of the input shaft you're concerned about, or, you're looking in the wrong place for the problem.

By the way - the "pilot bearing" doesn't go anywhere near the "main shaft", so I am a little concerned about the knowledge & experience levels of the parties doing the work.
Yes thats the snout on my input shaft from another i have, the one on my vitara right now is alot more scored than this and the bearinf does not move smoothly on the surface ,sorry for my english i am translating from french so some words seem strange to me
 

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What do you mean on the tailshafts, you mean at the rear? We checked them and they seem fine but i do notice a low vibration from the back at higher speeds but how could thia cause my suzuki to vibrate when shifting or backing up ou leaving from a stop when clutch starts to engage
I am not an expert, but when you go to drive off there can be clunking noises and vibrations if the universal joints are worn. The shaft will be out of balance because it will wobble, when turning.
It is not clear from your post whether the vibrations are from driving slowly or from the moment you push the clutch in. So it is harder to come up with an answer
.
It will depend on whether the car is in 2wd or 4wd as well, there could be vibrations from the front or rear depending on which shafts are driving the car at the time
Pete
 

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The way I read the op's issue, he has judder in engagement of the clutch. That's usually caused by bad surfaces, ( flywheel face not square to mounting flange) warped pressure plate ( or bad pressure plate spring) bad or warped clutch plate, clutch plate sticking on the splines, or a bad throwout mechanism ( pivot ball worn or throwouut arm cracked etc) and the always possible contamination of the mating surfaces from oil or grease.

@Nikolav1990 did you check the clutch plate moved freely on the input shaft splines before assembly? Checked the throwouut arm and pivot ? If the throwouut bearing was binding on the gearbox snout, you usually notice that as a distinctive grab when engaging and you feel it in the pedal as tight spots when pressing the pedal ( similar to the worn pivot and ball situation, you did grease that before assembly? )
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The way I read the op's issue, he has judder in engagement of the clutch. That's usually caused by bad surfaces, ( flywheel face not square to mounting flange) warped pressure plate ( or bad pressure plate spring) bad or warped clutch plate, clutch plate sticking on the splines, or a bad throwout mechanism ( pivot ball worn or throwouut arm cracked etc) and the always possible contamination of the mating surfaces from oil or grease.

@Nikolav1990 did you check the clutch plate moved freely on the input shaft splines before assembly? Checked the throwouut arm and pivot ? If the throwouut bearing was binding on the gearbox snout, you usually notice that as a distinctive grab when engaging and you feel it in the pedal as tight spots when pressing the pedal ( similar to the worn pivot and ball situation, you did grease that before assembly? )


So to answer you are right the vibration only occurs during the engagement of the clutch, for example i start it then put it in reverse, when i slwly let go of the clutch it starts to vibrate until the engagement is done then stops, same thing lets say im driving and i downshift from 4th to 3rd the moment i start engaging the clutch it starts to vibrate sonetimes allot and stops when clutch is engaged fully, my freind is a ptofessional mechanic for 20 years who did the job and everything is new clutch kit, slave cylinder , flywheel machined, new pilot bearing, only thing he says he can see is that the sleeve on the input shaft where my clutch fork is , when we took it appart it was really scored so we treid to sand it down but maybe that didnt do the job, the licture i put at the beginning of my post is another one i found that seems in better condition and was wondering other peoples opinion on the situation before we take it all appart again to try and fix it before my clutch gets unevenly worn like the last one
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am not an expert, but when you go to drive off there can be clunking noises and vibrations if the universal joints are worn. The shaft will be out of balance because it will wobble, when turning.
It is not clear from your post whether the vibrations are from driving slowly or from the moment you push the clutch in. So it is harder to come up with an answer
.
It will depend on whether the car is in 2wd or 4wd as well, there could be vibrations from the front or rear depending on which shafts are driving the car at the time
Pete

Possibly, i will take a look, the u joints are really old i thibk they are original but my vitara only has 54500km, it was not used allot in its 20 years of existance haha just trying to put it back to good health
 

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So to answer you are right the vibration only occurs during the engagement of the clutch, for example i start it then put it in reverse, when i slwly let go of the clutch it starts to vibrate until the engagement is done then stops, same thing lets say im driving and i downshift from 4th to 3rd the moment i start engaging the clutch it starts to vibrate sonetimes allot and stops when clutch is engaged fully, my freind is a ptofessional mechanic for 20 years who did the job and everything is new clutch kit, slave cylinder , flywheel machined, new pilot bearing, only thing he says he can see is that the sleeve on the input shaft where my clutch fork is , when we took it appart it was really scored so we treid to sand it down but maybe that didnt do the job, the licture i put at the beginning of my post is another one i found that seems in better condition and was wondering other peoples opinion on the situation before we take it all appart again to try and fix it before my clutch gets unevenly worn like the last one
What you're describing there is clutch judder, and that I believe can only come from within the clutch itself - the interfaces between the clutch pressure plate, the clutch friction disc and the flywheel surface where the clutch disc touches it - I don't see it as being caused by the retainer snout shown in the picture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What you're describing there is clutch judder, and that I believe can only come from within the clutch itself - the interfaces between the clutch pressure plate, the clutch friction disc and the flywheel surface where the clutch disc touches it - I don't see it as being caused by the retainer snout shown in the picture.

How would that make sense if everything is new...we dont see what the problem in those is, i have brand new exedy clutch, all new bearings and flywheel has been machined to spec, only thing we can see is that snout, we had to remove allot of material to get it smooth and still it wasnt that smooth. I guess we will see when we open it up again
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
What you're describing there is clutch judder, and that I believe can only come from within the clutch itself - the interfaces between the clutch pressure plate, the clutch friction disc and the flywheel surface where the clutch disc touches it - I don't see it as being caused by the retainer snout shown in the picture.
My friend says if the bushing does not move smoothly on the snout then it is possible that the friction discs do not touch the flywheel equally like before, when we took it appart the first time the snout was so eaten up that the fork was also eaten up and the clutch was used unequally, one side was like new and one side was used up, maybe im having trouble explaining as im not the mechanic i do my own work but im translating from french here so some words may seem strange to you sorry for that haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
How would that make sense if everything is new...we dont see what the problem in those is, i have brand new exedy clutch, all new bearings and flywheel has been machined to spec, only thing we can see is that snout, we had to remove allot of material to get it smooth and still it wasnt that smooth. I guess we will see when we open it up again
What you're describing there is clutch judder, and that I believe can only come from within the clutch itself - the interfaces between the clutch pressure plate, the clutch friction disc and the flywheel surface where the clutch disc touches it - I don't see it as being caused by the retainer snout shown in the picture.
So basically in better words the first time we took it appart the trowout bearing was done comepletely and the fork was loose and the clutch was uneven when engaging to tge flywheel so the input shaft snout/sleeve was very scored, we tried to sans it down but we think its not good enough and the picture i put up in my OG post was the other one i found from a local not a picture of the one in my vitara presently and i was just trying to see if anybody has ever had this problem or if anybody had other ideas about anything else that could be wrong
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Maybe the vibrations are the result of the throw-out bearing being unable to properly line up with the pressure plate. My foot feels pulsations as this happens. The vibrating pedal is similar to how a brake pedal would feel if the disc brakes or brake pads were unevenly worn.
 

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Maybe the vibrations are the result of the throw-out bearing being unable to properly line up with the pressure plate. My foot feels pulsations as this happens. The vibrating pedal is similar to how a brake pedal would feel if the disc brakes or brake pads were unevenly worn.
That said...your issues are with the release bearing or release fork, not the snout. Also (again), nothing rotates on the snout. The only things rotating are the flywheel and pressure plate combo, and then the friction disc which rides / runs on the splined transmission input shaft.

You DO need a Mechanic's expertise to disassemble, inspect, correct and reassemble the unit as a whole, because you are missing something. ;)

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The reason you can feel the pulsations in the pedal is because the vibrations are internal to the clutch assembly and being transmittted via the pressure plate to the release bearing, to the clutch fork, to the hydraulic system to the pedal. The retainer snout is stationary, bolted to the front of the gearbox, it's not moving, and IF the clutch release mechanism has been properly assembled, NOTHING in the release mechanism will be rubbing on the retainer snout. The release bearing clips to the release fork and should not be in contact with the retainer snout.
 

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The release bearing clips to the release fork and should not be in contact with the retainer snout.
Ummm, not really.
See how the Release Bearing rides on the transmission output snout? Fast-forward to the 5:58 mark... :)
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The video...

The lever Spring Clip is more of an assembly aid. ;)
 
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