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Discussion Starter #1
2000 Chevy tracker 1.6l. No check engine light.

Idle will kick up when the engine is cold, after it fully warms up the idle will kick down to 700rpms or so then creep down to 500 or less. Sometimes will stall, but starts right up. I can give it gas to keep it going.

Plugs, wires etc good...

Gonna try a new fuel filter and clean the EGR system this weekend. Ran some sea foam through the intake. Thinking IAC crapped out, but that's a expensive part...

Any other ideas?
 

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May be ignition timing as well. If it slipped (retarded direction), the idle and throttle response will suffer.

Curious. Have you replaced the timing belt or chain (which ever you have) and is the crank pulley in good shape and bolted TIGHTLY?

I'd rule out the fuel filter as being partially restricted / a problem IF your upper RPM's with vehicle at speed are OKAY.
 

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Clean the IAC and its connector, also the connector for the coolant temp sensor. Could be just a little lazy on cold mornings, even after warm-up. I usually am.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Don't think it's timing related, didn't start doing this till two weeks after I bought it. I should probably check that though, the last owned "said" it was done.
Fuel filter is original though....90k miles on it.

Gonna try taking some connectors off and cleaning em. Where is the coolant temp sensor btw?

As for the IAC don't try taking that off unless you have extra bolts and a good drill handy..... Gonna spray the hell outa that and put it back together tommorow.
 

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thegreatelbobo said:
Don't think it's timing related, didn't start doing this till two weeks after I bought it. I should probably check that though, the last owned "said" it was done.
Fuel filter is original though....90k miles on it.

Gonna try taking some connectors off and cleaning em. Where is the coolant temp sensor btw?

As for the IAC don't try taking that off unless you have extra bolts and a good drill handy..... Gonna spray the hell outa that and put it back together tommorow.
Hi
I have the same problem with my 2001 GV. The only difference is that my revs go up aswell as down.
Did you manage to fix the problem by cleaning the IAC and connectors?
Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ato said:
Hi
I have the same problem with my 2001 GV. The only difference is that my revs go up aswell as down.
Did you manage to fix the problem by cleaning the IAC and connectors?
Thanks
I cleaned everything, and so far have done/tested everything mentioned....Worked great for about a day. Now it's doing the same thing. Anyway to disassemble the IAC valve for cleaning?
 

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thegreatelbobo said:
I cleaned everything, and so far have done/tested everything mentioned....Worked great for about a day. Now it's doing the same thing. Anyway to disassemble the IAC valve for cleaning?
Same with me. My mechanic cleaned everything form the airfilter to the engine. Including the IAC valve. The engine was running fine at the garage. 5 miles down the road it started doing it again...
 

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On my old Ford F150 the aftermarket service manual told how to test the voltage for the IAC/connector, but don't know how you'd find that value for our Zukes. I would hope that an aftermarket IAC is not too expensive, but never checked it out at Rock Auto Parts or other places.
Might help to run a cleaner like Sea Foam through a tank of gas, if it's gunked up it might not be breathing right, or have a dirty intake.
 

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My mechanic cleaned the intake with somekinda spay. No change in the revs. Mind you a lot of gunk came out.
Off topic: Does anybody know from where I can download GV service manual?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
tmcalavy said:
On my old Ford F150 the aftermarket service manual told how to test the voltage for the IAC/connector, but don't know how you'd find that value for our Zukes. I would hope that an aftermarket IAC is not too expensive, but never checked it out at Rock Auto Parts or other places.
Might help to run a cleaner like Sea Foam through a tank of gas, if it's gunked up it might not be breathing right, or have a dirty intake.

Ran some injector cleaner through the gas. Sprayed/Sea-foamed the entire intake plus I took the IAC out and sprayed it. An aftermarket IAC would be nice....

but I just found out that turning the heat on bumps the idle up enough to get me by until I fix it properly.

Gonna try some foaming intake cleaner next though.
 

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the heat has nothing to do with the idle. Do you mean the ac? That will raise the idle..

thegreatelbobo said:
Ran some injector cleaner through the gas. Sprayed/Sea-foamed the entire intake plus I took the IAC out and sprayed it. An aftermarket IAC would be nice....

but I just found out that turning the heat on bumps the idle up enough to get me by until I fix it properly.

Gonna try some foaming intake cleaner next though.
 

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This may be un-related but I had a similar problem with my daughters XL-7. It would start high idle then drop and stall. Turns out the battery had a bad cell that was ocassionally shorting causing low voltage and the ecu to reset. I went through all the IAC cleaning ect... I replaced the battery, cleaned the terminals drove for about 15 minutes and no more issues. Have you had to jump start your car recently? if so have a load test done on your battery.

Joel
 

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Discussion Starter #17
XL7Limited said:
the heat has nothing to do with the idle. Do you mean the ac? That will raise the idle..

On some cars turning the heat on will cause the idle to bump up a bit so the alternator can keep up.


Otherwise I'll get the battery load tested. Cold temps are coming!
 

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noooo. Thats turning on the FAN. no matter if the heat is turned up or not...

so.. Ill say it again.. Heat has no bearing on this matter


thegreatelbobo said:
On some cars turning the heat on will cause the idle to bump up a bit so the alternator can keep up.


Otherwise I'll get the battery load tested. Cold temps are coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
XL7Limited said:
noooo. Thats turning on the FAN. no matter if the heat is turned up or not...

so.. Ill say it again.. Heat has no bearing on this matter

Well, yeah that's what I meant. Figured tuning on the heat meant fan running :D

A combination of the headlights and the FAN turned on seemed to bump the idle up, or it's just my imagination. A lot of my other cars would raise the idle a bit when you had a bunch of electrical crap running (ie fans,lights,radio).

I'm also thinking a freaky coolant temp sensor could cause this, or does that do something else?
 

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As a newbie to the Suzuki world I'm not sure if this applies or not.

I had a very similar problem with my Ram and it turned out to be a bad throttle position sensor (TPS). What I'm not sure of is how Suzuki implemented throttle position readings in their EFI system. If there is a TPS, then I would see if it is operating up to specs. I was able to use a digital multimeter to check the output voltage and compare it to specs. As I don't have a manual yet for the Tracker, I'm at a loss for what those specs would be.

David
 
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