Low conpression

Those numbers are very low and suggest a badly worn engine, and that diagnosis seems to match the symptoms you're reporting - the engine will be down on power, and use excessive amounts of fuel.

I would suggest you re-do those compression tests, make sure they are done properly, engine warm, battery fully charged, all plugs out and the throttle plate fully open, do both wet & dry compression tests and report the numbers.

I really appreciate the respond 🙏
The oil additives such as bardahl and engine repairer can help ?

s0ufi4n said:

The oil additives such as bardahl and engine repairer can help ?

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That's what we call putting "plaster on a sore" - it won't fix the problem, it just hides it.

IF the test results indicate an internal problem, which I suspect they will, tear down & repair or replacement of the engine are the only real repairs.

I'm not feeling good about opening the engine. Simply because it could be a hard fix that would cost much time and money...
Are there any other symptoms for a worn engine that could easily say

I feel your pain, but, you have to evaluate the situation before you can make a decision - the more information you have, the better positioned you are to make a decision.

Without opening the engine your option is restricted to a transplant.

Aquan

aquanaut20 said:

Without opening the engine your option is restricted to a transplant.

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What do you mean vy transplant ?

What should normally be the pressure in the 4 cylinders ?

s0ufi4n said:

What should normally be the pressure in the 4 cylinders ?

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Here's how it works - YOU do the tests and provide US with the numbers, WE interpret them and explain.

The details don't come from the numbers, but rather how the numbers compare to one another and how they change between the wet & dry tests.

s0ufi4n said:

What do you mean vy transplant ?

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Replace Engine

s0ufi4n said:

What should normally be the pressure in the 4 cylinders ?

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~170psi

s0ufi4n said:

I'm not feeling good about opening the engine. Simply because it could be a hard fix that would cost much time and money... Are there any other symptoms for a worn engine that could easily say

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It looks like you have a problem on the #3 cylender 75 lbs the rest of the numbers are okay. It takes 90 lbs to fire the cylender Do the test again on just the #3 cyl if it's still low do the test again wet if it jumps it's probably the rings .hope that helps

Skylope said:

It looks like you have a problem on the #3 cylender 75 lbs the rest of the numbers are okay. It takes 90 lbs to fire the cylender Do the test again on just the #3 cyl if it's still low do the test again wet if it jumps it's probably the rings .hope that helps

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ALL the cylinders are low, well below what would be considered the minimum acceptable. If you're going to re-test, it does not make sense to test a single cylinder, do the tests properly.

There is no point in "sugar coating" things, if the engine is worn, it's worn, if it needs to be opened, it needs to be opened, hiding from the truth isn't going to make the engine run any better or last any longer.

Being better informed allows you to make a better decision

Skylope said:

It looks like you have a problem on the #3 cylender 75 lbs the rest of the numbers are okay. It takes 90 lbs to fire the cylender Do the test again on just the #3 cyl if it's still low do the test again wet if it jumps it's probably the rings .hope that helps

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Maybe on a briggs and stratten, or a model A.
anything under 150 on these engines indicates a problem that needs investigation.

fordem said:

ALL the cylinders are low, well below what would be considered the minimum acceptable. If you're going to re-test, it does not make sense to test a single cylinder, do the tests properly.

There is no point in "sugar coating" things, if the engine is worn, it's worn, if it needs to be opened, it needs to be opened, hiding from the truth isn't going to make the engine run any better or last any longer.

Being better informed allows you to make a better decision

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I have no weird sounds, no oil liking, no smock, no oil consumption which are the normal sings of a worn engine I guess. So I'm still waiting for a non opening solution. Today I changed the spark plugs I ordered them from Suzuki. I've checked almost everything. The battery, the airflow (line pipe sensor..) .. yet, still having very poor milage and lack of power

s0ufi4n said:

I have no weird sounds, no oil liking, no smock, no oil consumption which are the normal sings of a worn engine I guess. So I'm still waiting for a non opening solution. Today I changed the spark plugs I ordered them from Suzuki. I've checked almost everything. The battery, the airflow (line pipe sensor..) .. yet, still having very poor milage and lack of power

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You're unlikely to get any further suggestions or solutions from the forum members until we have something to work with - we are not there, we can't see what you see. we can only work with what you provide - and right now, all you have given us is some ridiculously low compression numbers.

If those numbers are accurate, which they may or may not be, they suggest a worn engine - we won't know, you won't know until the tests are done properly as I outlined in my first reply (#2 above).

I get that you don't want to open the engine, and maybe you don't need to - but the only way we're going to know is when we see wet & dry compression test numbers, once we have those we may be able to suggest other possible/probable causes, without them, we can only guess.

As they say, the ball is in your court.

Skylope said:

It looks like you have a problem on the #3 cylender 75 lbs the rest of the numbers are okay. It takes 90 lbs to fire the cylender Do the test again on just the #3 cyl if it's still low do the test again wet if it jumps it's probably the rings .hope that helps

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Agreed however it sounds like the owner may not have the funds to rebuild.If the compression doesn't go up it may be a valve issue.

Has the O/P confirmed engine timing ?

What do you mean by the o/p confirmed engine timing ?