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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have an 87 Samurai that I nicknamed the REJECT because of the license plate number given to me by AZ for it, REJ1. I was looking for some answers when I came across this forum and thought maybe someone here would have the answer I need.

I recently changed to a Weber two bbl carb from the original and it runs super with it, well most of the time. After some time I am now having a problem out on the rough trails that I am unable to figure out and parts changing is very expensive on these little jewels. REJECT runs like a scalded dog on roads and idles as smooth as silk, BUT when we hit the trails it is seemingly loosing fire intermittently. Once we start bouncing along a rocky or rough trail it cuts out and it is clearly an electrical problem, because when I let off it idles perfectly, or if I stop it runs great idling or revved up.

I changed the plug wires, cap, rotor, and coil with no good results, it still does the same thing. I am thinking the ECM but those things are super expensive and I don't want to just change a bunch of parts in an effort to find and fix the problem. Anyone have any suggestions or knowledge that might help without spending 400 bucks for an ECM, has anyone had the same problem. Any help will be appreciated.

Someone said ECM no longer needed with Weber on it, but I can't find any info on how to get rid of the ECM.

I have a lot invested in my REJECT, things like air shocks all the way around, spring shackles vice flipping the axles, Weber carb, lots of cash in paint and clearcoat, interior mods, etc. so trying to avert any unnecessary additional costs if possible. :):cool:
 

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As far as I know the ECM on an 87 Sami was only used to control the mixture via a solenoid on the OEM Hitachi carburetor - since you have already removed that, you can simply unplug the ECU and everything else should be fine.

Which weber are you running? The 36/36 Weber is very popular on the Samis, but is known to be problematic - they are sensitive to angle (as in will flood easily when the vehicle is on an incline) and also to fuel pressure.

You seem to feel that this is an electrical issue because the vehicle runs well on road but not on a trail - the reason I have mentioned the flooding issue is that I have seen situations where vibration caused by a rough trail can provoke flooding.
 

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x2 It's called flutter. You're float bounces inside the bowl and causes over and under fueling.
Common with Webber's. The fix is : find a Webber guru and have him or her add a mountain kit. ( Webber voodoo ) or a Yota 1200 carb , or a my side , or efi , ETC.
As to you're ECM. Pull it and pass it on to someone running a stock carb.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks to both of you, and you are both right on. I took the REJECT out on the trails today and with finesse I can make it work, but I would rather fix it. Where do I find the mountain kit for it. I have searched the internet to no avail. I have been a mechanic professionally for many years and owned garages, done many a modification that people said could not be done, so I don't think this will be a thing that beats me. LOL Thanks again. :cool::)
 

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A couple of areas to look at ...

Check the float level, make sure it's correctly set.
Check the fuel pressure, if necessary install a regulator and set to 2 psi

If the problem occurs on a slope or incline - take a look at this link...
Weber inclination stall fix
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks fordem, I appreciate it and will give it a try. Can't complain about the carb when on level smooth road, seems to run much better than with the original carb but we do a lot of mountain and desert trails so the mini flooding will be a problem at times. :cool::)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so this morning I called Weber Techline and the tech said he had never heard of this happening recently, and he did say they had another carb that would not do this. I talked with him about it and he said he could see how it would do the fluttering as it is called and ask me to send him an e mail when I figured out how to fix mine.

Well, went out to the shop and took the air cleaner off and looked down in the carb and for sure you can look right into the float bowl through one hole, a rectangular one almost an inch long and maybe 1/4 inch wide. I read all the fixes that I had downloaded, and decided that my new weber does not need another float bowl vent as it has a vent line going to the charcoal cannister and I started looking around my shop for something to plug that hole with. I wandered around for a few minutes looking into everything and came up with some white soft plastic commode spacers for leveling a commode on the floor. They looked about the right size so I cut the top piece off of one of them and drove it down in the carb open space over the float bowl. Of course I put one in a vat of gas first to see if gas was going to affect it adversely, and it did not. After replacing the air filter I headed for the desert and some tests. Ran on side of a long berm in the desert where we regularly target practice, leaning both directions, then went up and over the berm several times. Only a few very slight hesitations and none on the rough rocky road on the way in and I was trying to make it hesitate because it would almost quit sometimes when I went in there yesterday.

Back to the shop and checked the plastic plug, pushed it down about a 1/4 inch below the top of the carb body and filled it with Black RTV. Now retested it and no hesitation in any position. Anyone wanting pictures of the fix just let me know and give me your e mail address and I will be glad to send them. No need to pull the top off the carb, just put the plug in, and it cured the problem.

Happy Four wheeling. :cool::)
 

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You can add the pictures to the thread - I'm sure it'll help someone.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I haven't seen where to upload pics to a thread, probably just haven't looked hard enough, will do when I figure it out. :):cool:
 

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When you're in the reply area, look for go advanced, and then manage attachments
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks again, fordem, I just had not looked for it. Here are the pics if anyone is interested. Like I said in the earlier post, the plug is a soft plastic commode spacer, pushed about 1/4 inch down below the top ofg the carb housing and black RTV to seal it all in.

Happy Four Wheeling. :cool::)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
For anyone following this thread. I have fought my Weber since before starting this thread and have tried everything mentioned in here and some that were not.

Last Monday I called Weber techrep for the third or fourth time and talked with him, and quite frankly asked him to send me return paperwork so I could return the carb as it was no good to me if it did not work properly on the trails in the desert and mountains. He said no problem, but asked if I would be willing to try one more thing, which was for him to send me another new carb with return paperwork for the one I had. I told him no problem, I would give it a try.

Today the carb arrived just as he said, with return postage, etc for the old on. I installed the new carb, set it up and headed for the trails. I took it to a place about six miles from out winter home where it really gave me fits with the first carb. No problems, ran like a top on and off road. He said maybe it was just a bad carb and I am glad we tried it, because I did not relish the idea of scouring the salvage lot with the rattlesnakes out of hibernation trying to find another carb and building an adapter for it.

They say all's well that ends well, and thanks to Weber's techrep sticking with me on this and doing everything he could, I now have a good running REJECT with a new Weber on it.

Happy Four Wheeling all. :cool::)
 
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