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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm wondering if there are any other transmissions that will fit on a 95 1.6L 16 valve geo tracker?
I see a 3L80 but not sure if it'll fit though, any ideas or leads on something not above 1100?
 

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99 Tracker, 5 door, 2L, 4x4
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Other than what?

..... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
other than the 3L30 auto trans, cause I can't find one for the price Oreilly's USED to have them for (they no longer have them :/)
 

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Find a used one that is solid. The autos are a dime a dozen, in my experience.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
what all would I need to swap to a manual transmission? like a legit list of things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you search the forum, you'll find a number of threads on this. Here's one:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...o-tracker/42710-auto-manual-26-man-hours.html
unfortunately that didn't give me a list of everything I need and what I need to do is later to come depending on if I can pay for the manual swap, in which manuals seem to be WAY more abundant than autos and then have it installed with all parts.
SO I have 1186$ and I need an automatic transmission, no one wants to rebuild and install for that price lowest is 1350 and well I'm jobless at the moment that's why I'm hunting for the lowest price I can on a rebuilt auto or seeing if a manual swap could be cheaper with a parts list.
 

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Probably your cheapest option will be to do a straight swap with another 3 speed auto tranny - from either a Tracker or Sidekick - that you can pick up within your price range from a junkyard.

Sorry that you didn't find the links provided definitive enough. Search the forum for additional links!!

Edit: Here, this is the best I can do for you - a search of every thread on the forum that deals with your issue:
https://www.google.com/search?as_q=...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=
 

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Shall I ask the obvious question that has been missed so far?

What's wrong with your current transmission??
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Probably your cheapest option will be to do a straight swap with another 3 speed auto tranny - from either a Tracker or Sidekick - that you can pick up within your price range from a junkyard.

Sorry that you didn't find the links provided definitive enough. Search the forum for additional links!!

Edit: Here, this is the best I can do for you - a search of every thread on the forum that deals with your issue:
https://www.google.com/search?as_q=...=any&safe=images&tbs=&as_filetype=&as_rights=
I mean the links help FOR the swap but don't tell me a LIST of all the parts as to not screw it up.
 

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it's on it's last legs.
Slipping and hard shifts.
Have you tried changing the fluid and filter? You might be surprised.

As the discussion WAS talking about a "cheap" way to keep this car on the road I am posting my thoughts on the finances behind automotive transportation:
-- You'll always be making payments. Either to the bank or in maintenance. (Preventative or repairs.)
-- Preventative maintenance helps lower the payments by reducing the repairs.
-- It is nice to "pay yourself" when you can work on your old car.
-- If you have to pay someone else to work on an old car, it might be cheaper to be making payments to the bank on a car that doesn't need much in repairs. (ie: a new(er) car.)
-- It really sucks to be "making payments" to both the bank AND in maintenance. :eek:

BTDT (Been There, Done That.) Your mileage may vary.
 

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I mean the links help FOR the swap but don't tell me a LIST of all the parts as to not screw it up.
The problem is that the list has lots of bits and pieces and could to be "made to work" with different parts than stock. These different parts might be better/cheaper or just easier to find. What can be done, with what parts, depends very much on the situation behind the swap, (who/where/why.) For example: If you have the equipment (grinders/welders and the like) it might be easier to modify a "old" part rather than replace it. But without the equipment you'll NEED that "new" part. Also some people can "make due" with less than complete swap (who needs a clutch safety switch anyway!) and might not consider all the parts as 'needed."

The least expensive way to make an auto to manual (or vice versa) swap is to buy a donor (parts) car and keep it AT LEAST until the swap is complete.

Note that if you have to pay labor to do this swap it will NOT be cheap. (Cheaper to replace what you have or buy another rig.)
 

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it's on it's last legs.
Slipping and hard shifts.
Ever thought about first changing the vacuum modulator on your existing tranny (other than checking/replacing fluid/filter). In your 3 speed tranny, the modulator deals with shifting - easily replaceable, as it is outside the tranny, and is a common area to check when you have shifting problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ever thought about first changing the vacuum modulator on your existing tranny (other than checking/replacing fluid/filter). In your 3 speed tranny, the modulator deals with shifting - easily replaceable, as it is outside the tranny, and is a common area to check when you have shifting problems.
vacuum modulator? I ain't got no marvin the martian on my car lol
nah I have tuned it up best I can, tightened the lines, no more leaks, and it's still dying on me, the speedometer cable is jumpy until 40ish mph.

and what is a neutral safety crank switch hoojaflajit??
 

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I think that you need to list all the things that you feel are wrong with your car, as well as how it runs, warms up, idles, bogs, etc. Dying at a stop light may have nothing to do with a transmission. Speedometer cable being jumpy is something that's somewhat important - the computer uses the speedo cable rotation to the vehicle speed sensor, in order to know how fast you are going - if this is off, jumping, etc., it could affect the ECU signal. Thus far, you haven't described anything in particular that is wrong with the tranny - dying at stoplights is normally not an auto tranny issue. And describe what 'tuning as best I can' actually means???
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think that you need to list all the things that you feel are wrong with your car, as well as how it runs, warms up, idles, bogs, etc. Dying at a stop light may have nothing to do with a transmission. Speedometer cable being jumpy is something that's somewhat important - the computer uses the speedo cable rotation to the vehicle speed sensor, in order to know how fast you are going - if this is off, jumping, etc., it could affect the ECU signal. Thus far, you haven't described anything in particular that is wrong with the tranny - dying at stoplights is normally not an auto tranny issue. And describe what 'tuning as best I can' actually means???
I said it's slipping and hard shifts, not dying at stop lights or anything else.
it's the transmission so far because well it shifts hard and slips in and out of gear
 

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... it's the transmission so far because well it shifts hard and slips in and out of gear
Have you checked the fluid level? By "the book" method? (Read the owner's manual: Warm, running, idling in park... on level ground.)

Your symptoms SOUND like low fluid. Low fluid in the transmission can cause hard shifts and delays in going into gear... when very low it can drop out of gear. (sound familiar?) Plus if the level is checked the same way as the engine oil (engine off) it will seem fine when VERY low. I could explain why if you want...

When is the last time the transmission was serviced? If you do not know, it needs done. Dirty fluid and clogged filter could also cause similar symptoms.
 

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You can probably change the fluid yourself if you have a spot. Have you had any local transmission shops look at it and give you a free estimate? There may be backyard guys who are cheaper than big shops. You can also get cans of conditioner that you add to the fluid, they might be a cheap option to start with. Hope you find work soon. It is cheaper to just trade for a 5 speed car than do a swap in my opinion, the gain if any is not worth the cost.
 
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