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Im a samarai owner since 1987 when I bought her off the showroom floor. She is in desperate need of a facelift/Makeover! It has sat in my garage for ten years for the time for me to do it and Im ready.. Can anyone help me on suggestions for a cheap small lift but want a better ride comfort wise. Weve lost all our four wheelin spots to new homes so I want to make her road worthy but still be able to go off road here and there with the excellent results Ive had in my past where this lil thing went through anything.. fun times.. Im leanin towards the spoa , but really need help here!!! Lookin for maybe 3-5 inches lift? whatever I can get away with so im not messin with it to the danger area... Ive heard about cj springs,, theirs alot of options? Help!!!!
 

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I didn't want to mess with steering upgrades or gearing problems so i went with "Old Man Emu" Samurai Spring under axle lift with 29" tires (235x75x15)..... the springs alone gave me about a 2.5" lift plus whatever size tire upgrade you do..... the ride is definitely much better but i lost some top end on the Interstate with the bigger tires and it was much better with the 26" tires (215x75x15)
Joe
 

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nice ride

I just put a OME lift on mine, new springs, shocks, steering damper. This lifted it about 2 inches and made the ride much better. I am impressed with this system. I have the stock size tires not wanting to loose any speed it has. :(
 

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The OME springs are a great upgrade and gave me just enough beef in the trails to go most anywhere...... I'm not crazy about the 29" tires as i justcan't get up enough steam on the highway to keep it in 5th gear. so i may drop back down to 26" tires as my top end was better then or find some money and get a transfer case with reduced gears but which ones exactly still has me confused.
 

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The OME lift is a good entry level lift.
I'd recomend it over a SPOA.
Especially for you're needs as you described them.
(Any SPOA lift is going to require steering, shock , axle rap, brake and stability corrections....)

You should also look into the YJ in a spua set up.
A bit more lift and a much better ride. And of course more $$$$


The OME springs are a great upgrade and gave me just enough beef in the trails to go most anywhere...... I'm not crazy about the 29" tires as i just can't get up enough steam on the highway to keep it in 5th gear. so i may drop back down to 26" tires as my top end was better then or find some money and get a transfer case with reduced gears but which ones exactly still has me confused.
4.6:1 is perfect for tires up to 31".
 

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The OME lift is a good entry level lift.
I'd recomend it over a SPOA.
Especially for you're needs as you described them.
(Any SPOA lift is going to require steering, shock , axle rap, brake and stability corrections....)
Where i go the SUA is perfect..... If i was rock climbing etc i would go differently


You should also look into the YJ in a spua set up.
A bit more lift and a much better ride. And of course more $$$$
The YJ setup surely would be better but it looks like i would have had to re-fabricate the front bumper to get it to fit......some underside body armor would help relieve the tension of cracking open my transfer case




4.6:1 is perfect for tires up to 31".
4.6:1 sounds good as my transfer case is the only old part i have in there and could use some updating...... thanks for the numbers
 

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The YJ setup surely would be better but it looks like i would have had to re-fabricate the front bumper to get it to fit......some underside body armor would help relieve the tension of cracking open my transfer case
Don't know. Havent seen you're bumper.
Body armor is a big YES. ALLWAYS... JMHO
 

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I have the stock bumper up front and the YJ springs stick out forward so would need a newer style bumper...... maybe down the road but the OME's are fine for now.
I remember seeing your build of that zuk......first class job you did
 

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I have the YJ conversion and the ride is very improved over the CJ RUF it had when I got it.

It seems to be ridiculously capable, I run out of balls before it does.

I did just install a Subspeed bumper & Engo winch and that did require a mod to the missing link stop. Sawzall, welder and 30 minutes to move it over.

I have 4 leafs but I hear 3 gets you an even better ride and crazy flexy for a leaf setup. I needed the capacity to put more weight onbaord though so its right for me.

Any samurai I own in the future will get the YJ setup as a high priority, even for mostly street use the improved ride is great.
 

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I took a better look at my front stock bumper and it has the spring shackles sitting below the stock bumper so the YJ springs would fit without modifications...... I use my zuk for gold prospecting so when i ordered the OME springs i got the extra heavy duty for the rear and i've loaded it up to the ceiling inside with gear and took it thru some really bad terrain and never once bottomed out. the spartan Locker i threw up front was a big improvement to get me over the rough spots. i would like to get a two stick transfer case as i do a lot of riding in 2 wheel low with the hubs unlocked til i need them (hope i'm not hurting anything)......and i do tow it behind my Ram Pickup occasionally
 

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I use the Twisted T kit for hitting low range w/o being in 4x4. Works well, I have heard that a standard twin stick can occasionally pop out of gear. I have never had one on a Zuk so others might be able to chime in. I didnt want to be descending a grade and have it snap into N.
 

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I use the Twisted T kit for hitting low range w/o being in 4x4. Works well, I have heard that a standard twin stick can occasionally pop out of gear. I have never had one on a Zuk so others might be able to chime in. I didnt want to be descending a grade and have it snap into N.
I'm not all that familiar with a twin stick but when i was on the low range site it said something about you have to fabricate /bend and weld your own twin sticks??______ I learn fast and can do just about anything with the right tools but would like to just get basic info on that setup as i am thinking about buying a whole new transfer case from them with the twisted T kit installed.
thanks for any help.
Joe
 

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I have the OME combo on my 86 Samurai and just the springs on my 87. I really like the little bit of lift and improved ride. Its a very quick and easy way to improve the ride. I can tell you that the OME shocks work well in combination with the springs. The 87 has stock style Gabriel shocks and they suck. Boxcar suggested the ProComp budget priced shocks as another option with the OME springs.

I looked at the Twisted T transfer case set up and I like it! Having the detent ball still in the system would be an good thing. I think my spare TC will get this system during it's rebuild. I will be flat towing my 86 and like this over the driveline disconnect, or, twin stick.

I did a "twin stick" conversion to my 78 Chevy, years ago. I always thought there was something wrong with the TC on that truck. You would have to kick it hard to get it into gear. I had the linkage off the TC, when I took the transmission out for a rebuild. That's when I discovered it wasn't the TC, but GM's crappy shifter set up. After I built my own shift system, the TC was a pleasure to change gears in.
 

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I really like the twin stick setups but 2x on keeping the detent ball. I installed the Twisted T when I did my 6.4:1, no regrets, clean simple look. It's different shift gate but it has NEVER chosen a gear on its own. It has a good solid feel to it but does take some getting used to. I recommend this, especially where interior space is at a deficit. With this setup it really doesn't feel like it could be bumped out of neutral easily.

I STILL will not chance pulling w/o drive line disconnect, especially at highway speeds. The damage that happens if it slips into gear is pretty far from ok. I plan on flat towing it when I go back on the road, unless I want to drive to work in a 30' motorhome I need it with me and working, I'm just not willing to gamble.
 

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Twisted T Setup

So with the detent ball left in on a twin stick setup can you still run in 2 wheel drive low?________

I was looking at the low range site and i desperately need lower gearing and they offer the twisted T double stick.
do you know if it can be installed by them to leave the detent ball in?_____

This is what i found online and he took the detent ball out and not being familiar with a zuk transfer case wasn't sure with the ball in if it would shift independtly and still give me a true neutral and a 2wd low range?______
I appreciate the help and happy thanksgiving

http://shopngarage.com/2012/02/suzuki-samurai-twin-stick/

One more question: when i bought this sammy from an 80 year old that towed it behind his motorhome he had a special rod that held down the clutch pedal..... I never used it and am kind of iffy but it sure would save the engine if it slipped into gear while towing. what do ya think?_____
 

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The Twisted T allows me to select HI or LO in either 2wd or 4wd without the two sticks cluttering up the interior. I have never done a Suzy twin stick but its my understanding that you have to remove the detent ball for it to work properly.

Re gearing is a perfect time to throw in the TT kit.

On a side note I really reccomend the shifter knob as the gate is different. I bought both knobs for the trans and Tcase in the Twisted T, they look good, feel pretty decent and have the correct gate. Pic later when my cam battery is charged.
 

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So the twisted T is only one stick?_____ how do they accomplish hi or low in 2 wheel or 4 wheel?______
you got me really interested in the twisted T now as you say "without the two sticks to clutter the interior"
this is probably an upgrade i will do about spring time when income tax comes in. LOL
Joe
 

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I STILL will not chance pulling w/o drive line disconnect, especially at highway speeds.
I wouldn't worry about that.

The teeth on the shift collars and corresponding gears are pretty tough to engage while turning at high speed. Just try sticking your transmission in reverse, without pushing in the clutch, at 3000 rpm and you have the same action going on. Small teeth, with chamfered edges will not engage at high speed (not easily). The chamfered edges bouce off eacth other and wont engage. I'm more concerened with the possibility of them disengaging under power. An example of this is the transfer case front output shaft, which will pop out of contact with the shift collar under load, as these transfer cases get more torque put on them and things wear over time.

I don't like the driveline disconnect idea on an everyday driver. Just more to wear out and go wrong. The bearing, shift collar, shift fork and linkage are just hanging out in the elements, gathering dirt and water.

I got interested in these Suzukis, because they are simple, basic and easy to work on. Plus, parts are cheap. I'll keep mine close to stock, for those reasons.

The only thing wrong with flat towing these things in nuetral, as they are stock, is that the front driveshaft is engaged. That's just more parts wearing out, as you go down the road. I've seen transmissions that have come out of Samurai, where the owners have decided to tow with the TC in 2H, transmission in nuetral, thinking that would be better than having the front driveline spin. This burns up the mainshaft bearings, because without the engine running, turning the transmission input shaft, which in turn spins the countershaft, the countershaft isn't spinning and throwing gear oil around to lubricate the mainshaft.
Everything in the TC gets oiled, when the rear output shaft is spinning (provided you have enough oil in it).

I like to keep things simple, cheap, lightweight and easy to maintain, on my Suzukis.
 

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So the twisted T is only one stick?_____ how do they accomplish hi or low in 2 wheel or 4 wheel?______
The kit comes with a new set of shifter rails. I don't have a set in my hands, to compare with the stock ones, but from the pictures online, it looks like they cut the detent and shifter engagement slots differently, to make it all work.
 

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The kit is shift rails and instructions, there is very little else you have to do to make it work. Its been a while but I think I had to clearance something with my dremmel. I took a pic of the shift knob with the gate to try and give you an idea how it works.

As for simplicity, I do embrace it as well. A nearly stock Samurai should last pretty much forever. Simple and clean is the way to go, which is one reason I spent the little extra for a single twin stick to do what I need. The only part of this vehicle that lacks simplicity is the 16v part. I know the trans wont go into gear with out some grunt but I think the transfer case can under the right circumstances. I was warned against flat towing from folks that know more than I do. It takes me 5-10 minutes to disconnect the rear U joint and hang it up under with my homemade hook, then I have peace of mind. When I leave in the motor home I am giving up my home, selling all but my portable tools and stuff, there will be no place to perform major repairs so for me that extra 10 minutes spent is ok, even if the chance of a failure are remote if I do not do it. I will be on the road for several years, then retiring outside the USA and working with a friend to have the Samurai shipped to me at that point.

The other thing with the Twisted T is it is supposed to give you a true transfer case neutral in 2 or 4 wd, again, if my memory is correct. I got the kit and the matching knobs from Trail Tough so hitting them up for the specifics is good before deciding, they have great customer service.

I threw a few pics showing the gate and how the knobs look, forgive the filthy interior, I'm about 95% done with homemade dash to so some other stuff out of place but you get the idea with the knobs.
 

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