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Finally. Sorry about that guys. They will be $299 for the kit with belt and step by step instructions. I'll likely have pre-buys for less early next week. Probably Monday-Wednesday and pre-buy price would be $249...less if you purchase other things. Then they would ship out about 10 days later. I'll post back if I decide to do this for sure but it probably will happen. Wanted to give you guys a heads up to try to scrounge up some money before then.
 

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Anyone happen to still have the part number for the UD pulley belt? It'll save me about an hour looking through emails. Lost that info when my comp was stolen and hadn't needed to buy more since.
You wouldn't happen to have an o/d pulley for the alt, would you?

I run a pretty powerful sound system and need that thing spinning pretty good.
 

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U/D pulley will hurt your alternators performance.

How many watts RMS are you running?
That's why I asked if you have o/d (overdrive) pulley to replace the stock alt pulley. U/D pulley on the crank and O/D pulley on the alt to keep output up at idle and low rpms. Would still see an overall performance gain having the power steering and a/c underdriven.

Say you get a net gain of 3 (generic units) for each accessory, for a total gain of 9. Then put that o/d on, you lose 3, resulting in a net gain of 6.

Not real numbers, but it's a good illustration.

I'm running ~2700wrms, per MidwestSPL's clamp/multimeter test method. Yes, I have a second battery in the rear. No, it's still the stock alternator.
 

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hmmm I thought the UD pulley doesnt have any negative side effects?
It doesn't; but when your amplifier is pulling more amperage than your alternator supplies at full load and your car consumes, together, you need every bit you can get. I blew a 150A inline fuse at the last competition. You'd have to understand my setup to understand why it hasn't hurt the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UD pulleys are available! ... email me at [email protected]

hmmm I thought the UD pulley doesnt have any negative side effects?
The alternator put out slightly less power but you won't notice anything unless you're running a very large system. I have 4k watt max stereo that I push far more than I should for my hearing sake. I'm at ~90k now and my alternator still tests "good" according to autozone, checker, ect

That's why I asked if you have o/d (overdrive) pulley to replace the stock alt pulley. U/D pulley on the crank and O/D pulley on the alt to keep output up at idle and low rpms. Would still see an overall performance gain having the power steering and a/c underdriven.

Say you get a net gain of 3 (generic units) for each accessory, for a total gain of 9. Then put that o/d on, you lose 3, resulting in a net gain of 6.

Not real numbers, but it's a good illustration.

I'm running ~2700wrms, per MidwestSPL's clamp/multimeter test method. Yes, I have a second battery in the rear. No, it's still the stock alternator.
Oh I thought that was just a typo. Still that kinda defeats the point of the UD pulley since an alt OD will hurt performance. There isn't any demand for something like that so I don't have any plans on doing it. Maybe a slightweight alternator pulley though.
 

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UD pulleys are available! ... email me at [email protected]


The alternator put out slightly less power but you won't notice anything unless you're running a very large system. I have 4k watt max stereo that I push far more than I should for my hearing sake. I'm at ~90k now and my alternator still tests "good" according to autozone, checker, ect


Oh I thought that was just a typo. Still that kinda defeats the point of the UD pulley since an alt OD will hurt performance. There isn't any demand for something like that so I don't have any plans on doing it. Maybe a slightweight alternator pulley though.
Surely your "90k" is a typo, otherwise I wanna know what and how many you have.

The OD won't hurt more than UD would, so there would still be some gain.

Please explain slightweight. Lighter than stock, but not quite lightweight?

I'm not trying to be an ass, really; I just lack the ability to be kind. You know, get straight to the point, get it out, get it done.

Thanks,
Lee
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Surely your "90k" is a typo, otherwise I wanna know what and how many you have.

The OD won't hurt more than UD would, so there would still be some gain.

Please explain slightweight. Lighter than stock, but not quite lightweight?

I'm not trying to be an ass, really; I just lack the ability to be kind. You know, get straight to the point, get it out, get it done.

Thanks,
Lee
90k miles on the car?

lightweight*
 

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That's why I asked if you have o/d (overdrive) pulley to replace the stock alt pulley. U/D pulley on the crank and O/D pulley on the alt to keep output up at idle and low rpms. Would still see an overall performance gain having the power steering and a/c underdriven.

Say you get a net gain of 3 (generic units) for each accessory, for a total gain of 9. Then put that o/d on, you lose 3, resulting in a net gain of 6.

Not real numbers, but it's a good illustration.

I'm running ~2700wrms, per MidwestSPL's clamp/multimeter test method. Yes, I have a second battery in the rear. No, it's still the stock alternator.
Why dont you get the u/d pully and while you are installing it take the alternator to an electrical specialist and have them add more windings to the armature and replace the brushes while you are in there. Or just get a better alternator. it will probably be cheaper than trying to machine a o/d pully, plus you have to do less calculations on what size to make the pully to get it to do what you want it to do.
 

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I was running a JBL GTO1201.1 and a GTO74.4 with a 180 A of max total use. 0 gauge wiring and the big 3 as well. My lights would blink like an ambulance when I turned the bass up. I could tell that my alternator would go down from there if I didnt go smaller amps... So I bought 2 smaller and more efficient amps MRV-345 and a MRD-M605 with max use of 120 A. I cannot get the light to blink again and SQ wise is far superior. So ppl with sound systems should look into more efficient amps if you want the UD pulley.
a good example would be the class D ice designs like PDX and ECLIPSE... Or the kenwood excelons + a lot more out there now...
 
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