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Discussion Starter #1
So long story short is that my wifes battery died. I go to replace it and like I idiot its pitch dark outside I put the better in backwards and the terminal fuse is fried.

Didn't think this would be a huge deal but, I'm living in America and apparently getting this thing is impossible. I simply cant find it anywhere and the only place I found to buy it was $160 shipped. If that's what I've gotta do that what I will do however, is there any other advice.

Can I re solder the blown fuse? Can I get another batter terminal fuse and pull the actual fuse out of it and put it back in the kizashi casing?

Is there away to forgo all of this and go right to the terminal wires themselves?
 

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Is this the main line to the alternator? The line to the starter has no fuse..

Get an inline maxi fuse holder and a 60 amp maxi fuse, about $13.00
 

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Discussion Starter #3
95098
95099
95100


You know what they say, picture is worth a 1000 words. You can see on the battery terminal fuse the 120 amp blew. There doesnt seem to be away to pull that fuse it seems to be all as one piece. The biggest pain is that it has that connector on the bottom for something, so nothing else is like it.
 

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As getting a replacement seems to very difficult I'd be tempted to fit something like this across where the fuse was. Doing so would keep the other supplies fused accordingly.
95101
95102
95103
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Eh its worth a shot for sure. I also thought about high temp soldering the broken fuse too but, the fusable link idea you have is much better and something I can get locally.
 

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you will need to head for a large stereo amplifier type fuse, the one Darrell has shown in his pic tops out at about 30 Amps, you need 120 A or thereabouts from memory
 

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I am looking at the 6 gauge wire and wondering how long thats going to last at 120A, considering its rated at 95A for a foot.(at 30C free air, under the bonnet at battery, more like 45C so that drops it to 80A continuous which is still probably ok)
If it works tho, its an easier thing to fit. They are not readily available over the counter here, but the big soddin power amp ones are with 35 mm2 wire (6 awg is 13 mm2) are easy to get.

Either way, its way easier and cheaper than the $160 for the factory unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Right now i've got a fusible link the one posted with a 40amp as its the highest I could find locally. Car totally works fine and all features work fine. The fuse is only there to blow on an over load if im correct so realistically do I need to replace it with a 120a eventually? I'm running a very small sports battery in all my cars if you didnt notice. They're only 380CCA Lithium ion and weigh around 2 pounds.

BTW thanks so much for all the support guys.
 

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the whole electrical load and charging current runs thru that fuse, so expect about 35 A one way or another most times, will be more noticeable after a cold start. Change it ASAP to a bigger unit, or put 2 x 40A in parallel (not best practice but in a pinch it will be fine). If youturn a/c on and wipers and headlights at idle, alternator won't keep up and with everything running, additional current comes from the battery. It hasn't blown yet, but it will when you least expect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Absolutely appriciate that. I went ahead earlier this morning and ordered the 120a maxi inline fuse. We've got 5 cars so its not the biggest of deals i'll just go ahead and move that car to the top of the drive way and not use it until i've properly taken care of it.
 
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