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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright, I just picked up a '91 2dr 4wd tracker in pretty solid condition. The guy said the transmission had been rebuilt within 20K miles, and the vehicle has a total of 136K on it.
That being said, I have a few questions.

1) It seems somewhat loud and throaty... hole in the exhaust system? Also, when I let off the acceleration I smell a exhaustish oily smell... could this also be due to a possible hole?

2) I looked after I drove it an hour home (smooth enough, handled great) and it seems like the driveshaft running from the transmission is oily... is this normal? I don't think it would be.

This is my first vehicle, but I'm a handy engineering student with several friends who have finished automotive school... So I'm pretty confident I can get any issues fixed.
 

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First, repair the leaking exhaust, before you suffocate yourself..

Second, No the drive shaft should not be oily, locate the leak, it could be blow back from a leak forward....

..... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is pulling the exhaust system much of a pain? I tried searching, but couldn't find anything. It's dark outside now, but I'll look at it in the morning.
 

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Congrats on your purchase!! You have the same car as I do, and, if you care for it, it will last you a lifetime (as long as you are not in the rust belt).
Regarding the exhaust - yes, you have a hole somewhere - muffler, cat, pipe, connector, etc. Now, a little secret: are you in a state where they check emissions?? If not, you will be happy to know that the early cars came in carb and fuel injected, and there are resonators for your car (rather than the expensive cat). Frankly, while there has been much discussion about the amount of backpressure that this car needs (and the theory that you can do anything you want from the cat back), I have been running with a resonator for years. However, while the 8v is a bit of a 'smelly' engine, I would also recommend that you lift the carpet and look at the floorpan - it is very possible that you are getting a good whiff of exhaust if there are holes in the floor pan. Are you in the rust belt? When you looked at the car, did you get under it to check the chassis, particularly in the rear by the rear suspension and gas tank? This is a known rust area, as, frankly, is the floor pan, as the carpet and insulating holds in moisture and allows the floor pan to rust away in horizontal places.
Regarding your leaks - as this car is new to you, it is a good idea to change all fluids - tranny and transfer case (GL-4 - safe for yellow metals), front and rear diff (GL-5). By the way, the filler and drain plugs are 10mm sockets, not 3/8" as some people think. This entire car is metric! If you do the diffs, make SURE that you are able to get the filler plugs off, before you open the drain plugs.
Just for your info, there are o-rings on the distributor that leak after time (after all, your car is 23 years old) that drip down on to the transmission. Aqua's suggestion is good, that you need to clean all up in order to see exactly where the leak is coming from.
There is plenty of info on the forum to help you (or ask). For example, that the check engine light must be on with the key on, and off once the car starts (and how to check for computer codes with a metal paper clip); that spark plugs need to be gapped at .028" and not just used out of the box, etc.
Put a little maintenance into the car - tune up, compression test (to check engine timing), all new filters and fluids, new coolant, etc., maybe cleaning the EGR valve, etc.
Just for your info, your car should cold start at about 2000 or so rpm, have a 500 rpm drop in idle after about 5-10 seconds, and then, after warm up, have a steady 800 rpm idle. You don't advise if your car is manual or the 3 speed tranny, but either way, enjoy. I have had mine for 19 years - changed the oil religiously every 3000 miles, maintained it well, and, sadly, with the exception of rust, it runs now like it did 19 years ago.
Oh, also, if the capacitors in the ECU have never been changed, this will be part of your future - a $5 fix if you know how to solder......
Enjoy.
 

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Crude but works,for the exhaust leak, stuff a rag in the end of the pipe, this will force more exhaust out the leak. For the oily driveshaft, from here would vote for the rear seal in the trans, pretty easy to change.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks guys! Thanks for the info, I appreciate it greatly! The only part of this car that's all that rusty is the top of the wheel wells... the two in the back have rotted out in a 4"ish area where the rear seatbelts bolt in. The rest of the wheel wells are solid completely, I think it's probably from the carpet padding that's there that would hold in the water. Also, the area below the drivers side rear light has rusted out some. The frame itself is solid, even by the rear shocks. I live in Southern IN, so I assume I'm in the rust belt, yes? The paint is in incredible condition, so I think it was taken care of by the original owner... The guy I got it from, maybe not so much.

So I crawled under the tracker today, and the seal from the muffler to the tail piper is for sure shot, and I can't seem to get the silly hanger bracket bolts loose... I sprayed it with some penetrating oil, so we'll see if those work loose. If not, could I just cut the bracket and rehang it with those muffler rated zipties?

What I did notice, is that it sure looks like this Tracker has already had the cat removed... it should be in the straight section of pipe between the muffler and the header pipes, right? Mine is straight all the way down from the curvy sections to the muffler with no big bulges or anything. It seems like the joint where the two pipes come off the header then merge into one has been welded, and since I think that's where the cat should be it would make sense.

EDIT: I also took a closer look at exactly what is oily... and it looks like the top of the trans (Auto, 3 speed, sorry I forgot to mention that originally!) is oily as well. Sounds like the distributor o-rings then. Are those replaceable or do I have to replace the entire thing?
 

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Yes, its the exhaust header, cat, muffler, tailpipe, with connecting pipes in between each. I have never used muffler rated zip ties, so can't comment on that....
 

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Yes, you need to do that immediately....So far, it's taken about 14 years to replace mine....;)
 

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The o-rings are replaceable. Do a search -- there was a guy who had a pictorial guide hosted on an external site a while back, but it appears to be gone now.
 

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Thanks guys! Thanks for the info, I appreciate it greatly! The only part of this car that's all that rusty is the top of the wheel wells... the two in the back have rotted out in a 4"ish area where the rear seatbelts bolt in. The rest of the wheel wells are solid completely, I think it's probably from the carpet padding that's there that would hold in the water. Also, the area below the drivers side rear light has rusted out some. The frame itself is solid, even by the rear shocks. I live in Southern IN, so I assume I'm in the rust belt, yes? The paint is in incredible condition, so I think it was taken care of by the original owner... The guy I got it from, maybe not so much.
I think if you start lifting the carpet you will see if this rust area has spread. Also check the area above the gas tank and under any side molding trim pieces for more surprises.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I was told the engine was replaced at some point, but I'm not 100% sure on that... How can I check? I'm looking at dist. o-rings and there two different sizes for both the 8v and 16v depending on the year.

EDIT: It seems like the 8v has the air intake closer to the driver, while the 16v has it up behind the headlight. Is this the case? Mine's up towards the rear of the engine bay so I'm assuming it's the 8v... Also, seeing how there's a decent amount of stuff that has to get shuffled around, I can't imagine someone swapping my 91 8v for a 16v.
 

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There would be no doubt, if you have a 16V, it would be molded into the cast valve cover...

.... Philip
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Oh, well, that was a rather silly question then. :blush:

I've spent my day googling and searching this forum, and this thread: http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki...ker/46640-distributor-o-ring-replacement.html is what seems to have the most information. Unfortunately, with no pictures trying to figure out what it all means is somewhat difficult for me with the, ahem, somewhat eccentric grammar heehee. I also cannot seem to find the sticky that he referenced at the beginning of his post. I mean, I can change an o-ring, but I don't have a way to re-time it so I need to keep the stock timing.

As far as the o-ring itself goes, the info listed on this section of this website:
http://www.fixkick.com/buy-parts.html#Dizzy-rings
suggests some standard Viton replacements that I ought to be able to find at Oreily's or the sort... Do those seem like they should work?
 

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Crude but works,for the exhaust leak, stuff a rag in the end of the pipe, this will force more exhaust out the leak. ....
Easier (if you have an air compressor) and a LOT safer... before stuffing the rag in the pipe, stick an air hose from your air compressor in the end of the exhaust. It should then be "leaking" clean cool air without the motor even running. Without the motor running, you can hear most leaks. Also: No burned hands and no headaches from car exhaust!

Blast from the past:
1st dog: "Brain damage from car exhaust???" :huh:
2nd dog: "No, brain damage from having your head ran over by the rear wheels!"
 

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Welcome to the wonderful world of Trackicks. I'm basically a newbie to them myself. Here's what little advice I can offer so far:

If you've already found rust out in the open you'll find it elsewhere. My Kick (and I assume most others) have some sort go thick, spray on lining in the floor pans. I've discovered my windshield leaks on the pass side. Water worked its way under that coating. Both causing the coating to pop loose & make the rust work overtime.

Check where your door hinges mount to the body. My top driver side hinge is torn away. Granted mine just rolled 300k so that's a lot of slamming. The panels are thin in general & prone to cracking. Also, check behind your spare tire if it's hanging from the rear door. My rear door is cracked so badly that I don't carry a spare (which I don't recommend).

If you have any electrical probs be aware that the system is switched to ground. That caused me some headlight grief.

I've worked on everything from Harley-Davidsons to heavy equipment. I'm no mechanic but rather someone that likes to fix things myself. I find my Kick to be rather peculiar and very light in terms of construction. But that's the point & the fun of them. Truthfully I find my '94 very simple & generally easy to work on. Don't be afraid to try fixing things but be cautious. If you don't know, ask. I've gotten a lot of good info from this forum & the people have been nice. I love my little Kick & think you'll enjoy yours too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks guys!

I think I've found my bigger oil leak issue, and I pray to heaven it's not what I think it is... On the drivers side of the engine, below the area where the exhaust manifold mounts is all oily... I'm really hoping it's something along the lines of the valve cover gasket and not the head gasket (is it even possible to have oil leaking there? I've seen mixed opinions...) What are some common seals to leak that would cause the upper driver side of the engine to be oily?

The thing isn't leaking like a sieve, I checked the oil before I bought it, and checked it once I drove home (hour and a half) and it hadn't really changed any, so I'm guessing it's a slower leak.

EDIT: After some searching around (Sorry guys, I really have to put words down on paper-err, computer, to really sort my thoughts out. I promise I search!) It sounds like it could definitely be the VC. Also could be the cam shaft and crank shaft front gaskets.

EDIT2: I realized after thinking it over that I'm long overdue on just cleaning the oil off and figuring out exactly was is leaking... Sorry guys, I haven't been able to tear into it yet so I'm just trying to figure out what to expect. You've been super helpful! I'm starting an internship tomorrow, but I figure I'll be able to work on it in the evenings.
 

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The valve cover leaked like a sieve on my 8v when I got it. It's probably due for a valve adjustment anyway, so now's as good a time as ever to open it up and do both those tasks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
So I changed the valve cover gasket... I'm not sure if I can say "change" though, because best I could tell there wasn't one there before... Surely it hadn't been compressed to nothingness, right? I was sure there wasn't one there, now looking back, how sure was I? Guess I'll know when I run it for a bit...

Also, this very well may be a dumb question, but should there be a little open, err, hatch in the bottom of my transmission bell? looks like there should be a cover there but there isn't, I can see a gear. is this normal? (3 speed auto)
 

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... should there be a little open, err, hatch in the bottom of my transmission bell? looks like there should be a cover there but there isn't, I can see a gear. is this normal? (3 speed auto)
There is a square "inspection" hole in the bottom of the bell housing. There is a flimsy plastic cover for these but do not worry (much) about it. If you happen to be in a self serve junkyard, see if one finds its way into your pocket.
 
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