Suzuki Forums banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I Live in rural Newfoundland, Canada, so coming across a Samurai is tough, let alone one that isn't a rust bucket. But I finally found one to start my project.

Its a 1987 with the 1.3L. The guy I got it from had bought it and stripped it right down. The frame is unbelievable, and the body is about 95%. He just did all the body work and its currently has primer on it, awaiting paint. Its got a SPOA lift plus blocks (i think 2-3 inches). It's currently got brand new 35" tires (not aggressive) on those little stock axles. It is regeared to 5:29 and has a detroit locker in the rear. Other than that it is stock.

Been reading a ton lately for research but want your opinions. I want to know what you guys would do to this current set up to make this the best machine possible. I will be using the machine for just around my small town, very minimal highway. Most of the offroad will be for hunting and a little mudding but very little rock crawling. So i'm not worried about highspeeds or being a hardcore rock crawler.I have a good job in the oilsands so cost is not a big issue without getting crazy.

Like to keep these axles at least for a bit because of the money already put in them, although i know a toyota swap would be better. Been reading about the longer springs, changing the gears of my transfer case and maybe changing the engine.

Any and all info is appreciated. Sorry for the long post but i'm pretty excited to get this project going.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
go to lowrangeoffraod.com they got all you need and want and good prices. i would get the transfer case cradle for that. its 200 or 209 bucks and a whole they to install it and will help especialy since you got the super high gears in the case already you can break the housing on the transfer case.without it.looks sweet.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
First thing I would do is get rid of those lift blocks... They are an accident waiting to happen. THey might 'get the job done' for the street crowd, but if you get on any trail that has off-camber situations you become a hazard to anyone and anything around you. (stepping down from soapbox...)

Mods, depends on what you want to do.

Here are the specs for my trail Zook, but you don't have to go as wild to get through most of the trails out there, mine is probably an exception.

Year / Model - 1992 Samurai Convertible (soft top)

Drivetrain - 1.6 ltr, bored 40 over w/shaved head, EFI,
Doug Thorley Header, 2" exhaust, Stock 5 speed tranny
TwinStick 6.4:1 transfer case in a Mighty Kong skidplate/mount
Heavily gusseted stock front axle housing stuffed with 26 spline Chromoly shafts from Spidertrax.
Spidertrax Sidewinder Full Floater Rear axle w/ Track/Kick center
5.12 R&P gears and Warn Premium Hubs
ARB Air Lockers front and rear
Tom Wood's CV drive shaft out back and a Tom Woods HD shaft up front

Suspension - SPOA Conversion,
Up Front: YJ springs with Trail Tough Missing Link Shackles
Panhard Bar, OME Steering Stabilizer
Shock Hoops with Doetsch Tech 8000 Pre-Runner Shocks

Out Back: YJ springs with Trail Tough Missing Link Shackles
Rear disc brakes
Rancho 9000 shocks moved inboard

Wheels / Tires - 33x12.50" Swamper TSL Radials
on 15x8" American Racing Rims (AR 767's)

Bumpers - ShrockWorks Winch bumper w/ Warn i8000 winch,
ShrockWorks rear bumper w/Swing out Tire Carrier and Fuel Can


Additional Accessories -- Six point Roll Cage, Fold-down/Removable windshield, Z-bar Eliminator Steering System (knuckle-over), H/D gas tank skid plate, custom heavy duty rocker skids (1/4" wall throughout), pumpkin hats, Dual Optima batteries, Spidertrax battery tie downs, 108 amp GM alt, removable doors, 48" Hi-Lift® Jack, Viair compressor for On-Board Air with air tank, RCI Racing Seats with matching rear seat upholstery on stock seat, Tuffy® security console, Sun Tach, 26" brake lines up front, Safety Brake Electric Line Locks f/r and a seperate Hydraulic line lock for the rear, Fully sprayed Vortex tub liner, in-dash remote winch controls, Hellroaring Battery Isolater/Combiner.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Interesting they're difficult to buy? Maybe just in your town?
Anyhow Canada is pretty awesome, in my quest to find a mercedes 300GD two door g wagon I found there are more there than here in the US. When I get a good job, I may import one directly from Germany. It's like a german version of the tintop.:cool: The convertible tops are probably more expensive. Will have to look into that when I have the money..


Update the grill if you want it to look newer..
Here's mine..


For paint if you even care to paint it or maybe yourself. I was thinking of doing mine that mercedes matte grey.. Here a good example of the paint.. I'm guessing it's a single stage.. I saw a 60's bronco with the mercedes matte silver and it looked pretty good.
My car has dents and stuff so I don't know if I will paint it because the original paint is still pretty good but that's the color I would choose.
Mercedes-Benz CLS sixty three AMG by SR Auto | LuxuryModified

For the Engine I would go TDI, I think they're easier to get in Canada.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hey so my buddy wants to buy my 35's so I was wondering if dropping down to 33's is a big enough drop? I was also wondering what gear ratio I should go with in the tcase with the current 5:29 R&P? It will be used around town 50/50 on off road never going more than 50 mph.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
X2 on ditching the lift blocks, their use is never ok. X2 on Tcase cradle for anything other than gentle street use.

Without doing much highway or serious offroad you might be good with the 1.3L, you'll have to drive it and see, with reduced gears in the diffs already you might not need to re-gear the Tcase depending on how you drive. I would def see how livable it is. Mine is not geared as people recommended but it fits my needs perfectly (4.10 diffs, 6.4 transfer case on 35" tires, but will go with 33" when replacement happens)

I would suggest driving it around and seeing how it suits your needs before re gearing and swapping engines. Oh yea, get some better seats!

Enjoy and keep us posted

Tony
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
The last time I killed my t-case, I had to swap in a stock unit until I had a new one built up. Running 5.12's in the diffs and the stock t-case made my speedometer register almost perfectly on 33's. It ran fine on the road and light trails, but I didn't dare try it on the waterfalls until I got the t-case replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I would swap the engine. The 1.3 is underpowered and it will burn A LOT with big tires.
1.9 VW diesel AAZ from 1993-1997 is the best engine. Get a good one with the least mileage possible, new if you find one. You will be happy . For the adapter , get ACME . Is the best.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top