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Discussion Starter #1
I am using a trolley jack.
I don't have a 4x4 Ignis so my question is as far as the rear is concerned on my 2017 do I do as it seems to indicate in the book of words and lift it on what looks like the towing eye?:eek:
I have not tried it yet but as it is nowhere near the centre line surely it won't lift the back end up equally on both sides.:(

As for the front, getting the trolley jack under there is a game let alone pumping up the handle. Has anyone got a solution because the book of words seems to think I can get a floor jack in there.:eek::eek::eek:

I will confess my trolley jacks have seen their use on big 4x4s so rolling one under has never been a problem.:rolleyes:
 

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you need a "low profile" jack to get in there, standard ones are a pain to get to fit and almost impossible.
Jack under the suspension points, such as a link rod or a shock mount or under a spring. Do not try and lift the whole car in one go, bad practice on these things as there is no really solid central jacking point at each end. Lift a corner at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
you need a "low profile" jack to get in there, standard ones are a pain to get to fit and almost impossible.
Jack under the suspension points, such as a link rod or a shock mount or under a spring. Do not try and lift the whole car in one go, bad practice on these things as there is no really solid central jacking point at each end. Lift a corner at a time.
What I found was that the jack would not reach the jacking point at the front (crossmember) as it shows in the book even when I got it under there. I have seen long reach low jacks in workshops but never owned one.

There is a crossmember at the back which I used to lift both wheels for a try out.
In the book I was looking at what is a diff for the 4x4 which it says to use but didn't appreciate it was particular for the 4x4 and the cross member on a 2WD is not the same sort of proposition.

Book also points to the towing eye at the back and I was not happy to try that being well off centre, then it began to pour down with rain - rain stop play.

For years I used my ramps until one time a few years back I drove my Mitsubishi Junior straight off and just missed a brick wall.:eek: Now ramps almost frighten me.:(

Even this one needs a 17cm clearance and I am going to check to see if it will go under weather permitting.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181172807071?ul_noapp=true
Also there is a rubber deflector on the bottom valance which gets in the way and needs to come off.

This one looks to be even higher.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic-Floor-Trolley-Jack-2-5T-Ton-Low-Profile-Car-Van-Garage-Tool-New/123858193836
 

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Get some bits of wooden plank and drive it onto those - simples and cheap. I have an old car hoist with a hump between the posts in my shed. When lowering a car that does not start, wooden planks and blocks make a ramp to lower it onto a temp ramp to allow gravity to roll it out of the shed. Same cheap principle will help you get a standard floor jack under if you drive onto some planks, at least for the drive wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Get some bits of wooden plank and drive it onto those - simples and cheap.
Yes I am working on those lines
I think I am going to go plastique.:huh: Nice and light and effective. My steel ramps just weigh too much these days.:eek:
What height to get is what I need to decide.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-3-Ton-3000KG-Home-Low-Rise-Wide-Car-Van-Workshop-Plastic-Strong-Ramp/223329553188

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Car-Ramps-2x-Garage-workshop-Car-Van-max-2-5-t/333073320160
 

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Discussion Starter #8

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Lazy, jack and axle stands......can't check suspension off ramps.....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lazy, jack and axle stands......can't check suspension off ramps.....
Once up on ramps if I need to to I can get the trolley jack for more lift - that especially applies at the front. My T/jacks are high lift 3+ tonnes. It is really the front that started me off on this but lightweight ramps sound appealing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the ramps, came next day. Thing is, one was broken with part of the end sticking out of the box.:mad: The box they came in was not really much protection but then again how weedy are these things if they cannot stand up to DPD? I loved the weight or lack of it but don't like the short platform at the top. The flat bit is hardly enough and as I mentioned elsewhere with an AGS auto running off the end is highly likely. Even with SWOM signalling to stop I could not react fast enough for my liking. One minute the auto is creeping up the ramp's incline then it zooms off when the car hits the level bit.:eek:

They are going back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have ones which look like these - though haven't used them yet with the Ignis.

I have had this set for years - they have a bit at the front to help grip so the ramp does not shoot away - in theory. lol Nice long platform but very heavy to hump about.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have ones which look like these - though haven't used them yet with the Ignis.
I have a set of these but they are really bloody heavy.They use a screw scissor jack which is slower so I use an air wrench but they will last forever. They have a detachable ramp to make access easier once lifted.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I find with that exact design, there is damage caused on front approach to the lower front plastic garnish (some people call this a bumper bar).
There is a 'pain in the neck piece' of rubber there which I intend to remove.:cool:
Often the run up is too short so ramps are too steep.;)
Back to lifting with a T Jack then.:eek: I see the one I liked has just gone up by 23 quid.
So I tried lifting the rear with the trolley jack I have and one wheel (N/S) only just comes off the ground so that's not a lot of use. Looks like I need super high lift, super long and super slim jack - all for 50 quid.:rolleyes::rolleyes::D
This one needs 19cm at the pump end and there is only 15cm under Ignis front end.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SGS-1-5-Ton-Long-Reach-Professional-Service-Trolley-Jack-For-Garage-Use/170972431353
 

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Discussion Starter #17
you need a "low profile" jack to get in there,
It is 80cm from the "official" front trolley jack point to the front of the car and the entry height at the front is 15cm. Low profile alone won't reach and many low profile are only low at the saddle.

I got a set of these today - saved a few quid with an offer - and they are almost fine for creeping an auto on to them alone. They give a bit of clearance to see underneath.:cool:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-3-Ton-3000KG-Home-Low-Rise-Wide-Car-Van-Workshop-Plastic-Strong-Ramp/223329553188?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Jack under the suspension points, such as a link rod or a shock mount or under a spring.
Talking of part lifting from the side, what about jacking on the 'chassis' rail? Looks nice and strong to me and runs all along.
 

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Talking of part lifting from the side, what about jacking on the 'chassis' rail? Looks nice and strong to me and runs all along.
Depends - jacking points vary in as far as Lifting Efficiency Targets. Lifting a Wheel or lifting the Body is two different stories. Obviously lifting a wheel lifts the body, but we gotta consider suspension travel. One can lift the body 6 inches and not lift a wheel on some cars!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Depends One can lift the body 6 inches and not lift a wheel on some cars!
Oh been there got the T shirt for that!:D

However, still on side lifting, the chassis rail is just a few inches inboard of the "jacking point " which is used with the car's scissor jack (if you have one and not one of those awful gas inflator things)!! So if the one lifts the wheel the other should especially with a high lift trolley jack don't you think. I'll try it but only when I hear the chassis can take it - when compared to a puny reinforced sill/rocker it should.;)

I am wondering if I am almost the only DIY person on the forum Ignis wise.:eek:
 
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