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Just what the title says, is that the timing cover gasket peeking out there? It is likely that the source of my oil leak is the cam seal-what is the difficulty rating on replacing that? Yes the belt had ac marked on it previously to help with resetting it.

I also have to replace that belt, it does a fair amount of squeaking what the AC is on. Anyone have a brand recommendation? I used to use the defunct gator ones in other cars.
 

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The oil is from one of three sources - crank seal, cam seal, or spilt oil - there is no timing cover gasket as such, just a series of rubber "seals" in the edge of the timing belt cover that help keep dust out, and stop the cover from rattling.

Cam & crank seals are not difficult, for someone with basic mechanical experience - I suggest you turn the engine to line up the marks before removing the belt, and fit a new belt & tensioner whilst you have it apart.
 
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I prefer Gates belts, when given the option.
The crank and cam seals are not too difficult (as fordem stated). I recently completed this service...timing belt, tensioner, water pump, cam and crank seals. Jerry's (fix kick) page has some great information and pdf's.

Cheers
 
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Not saying this is your issue. But, I had a similar looking leak recently and since I had both the oil pump and the pan off (94 into a 96 had to add the crank sensor) I thought for sure it was from that area as well. Pulled the radiator, timing cover, ect.

Its was from the valve cover. Oil running down the block (rear) where it was difficult to see. The car was parked nose slightly lower than the back end, I guess. Apparently oil ran down caught the lip of the oil pan and wound up looking like it was coming from the crank oil pump area.
I was convinced I screwed up the front seal, oil pump gasket, and or CPS seal. I'd recommend taking a clean white paper towel or two and dap around the valve cover looking for fresh (helps if your oil is clean or at least fresher looking than the grim on your block. I'd also recommend looking closely at the seam between the block and the pan (paper towel) all the way around.

By the way my valve cover gasket was the old or cheap stlye not silcone. Probably xx? years old and it was as brittle as a burnt tortilla.
 

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1991 Hardtop 3-door Tracker 1.6L 4WD 5-Speed No A/C
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Made in the good 'ol U.S.A.!

Cheers
Are you sure? The main plant in Denver -- a few blocks from me -- closed over 20 years ago! It was so big, they're still tearing it down -- and putting up condos.
 

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Are you sure? The main plant in Denver -- a few blocks from me -- closed over 20 years ago! It was so big, they're still tearing it down -- and putting up condos.
Second that. Man that Gates facility was huge and employed many people. Lota belts and hoses. The EPA scared them away.
Early NAFTA was when I believe they went south.
Craftsmen tools were also all made in Colorado Springs at Western Forge until some time in the late 80s or early 90s as remember it was shortly before the demise of Sears and the sell-off of the brand. Not sure if they went to Asia or Mexico or both.
 

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Gates Green belts are US made, most of the rest of the gates line look like they are from China, gates hoses are made in Arkansas........all changed when Denver facility closed.
 
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True that the belts are made in many different locations, however, it is printed on the belt. I try to purchase belts made here in the States when given the option.

Cheers
 
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I prefer Mitsubishi belts. Just like on the sidewall of my tires back in my cycling days that triangle instills confidence. Especially on the T-belt of an Asian interferance engine. I think its something about the tooth cut or taper mesh....
 
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