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Discussion Starter #1
Hello.
I am hoping someone can help me, seriously...
I am trying to learn as much as I can about my Suzuki, but not finding much luck or success on the internet so far.
From looking at recent pics it appears to be close to a Samurai, but I don't know?
The "official" name on it it "Suzuki Caribian".
The year is 1993
This is a used vehicle that I bought in Thailand 3 years ago.
I am having your typical mechanical issues, but no where to turn for help.
I'm hoping if I use a name that is recognized by the western world, dark secrets might come to life for me.

Thank you in advance for all that you might be able to tell me about my great little toy.
 

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from pics on the internet i think you could have a sj413 suzuki sierra sj70 thats the oz version and the american version is a samurai
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How do I post pics?

Thank you for the thought that some pics could be a big help.
I do have a couple of pics that could surely help someone wiser than myself.
But... now I need to ask for help in how to post a couple of pictures...

I can get by with a 'puter but don't consider myself thoroughly competant.
I saw a button that said "insert image", but then it requested a ' URL '.
I'm not too sure how to proceed from there.
I'm assuming that URL means I am suppose to send web address where pictures are posted somewhere in cyber space?

I was hoping for the little box where I could guide it through my hard drive & click on the file name...

Any advise is appreciated. Thanks.
(I feel like the newbie that I am <sigh> :( )
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Let's try again...
By the way, that is a really nice looking Zook!



I went to where you uploaded it in the gallery and dugdown to the full size pic.
Then I right-clicked it and selected properties.
The address (URL) is what I copied and put in between the img tags.
 

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Fantastic looking Suzuki!
Wish I had one!
I love the roof
The grille looks like SJ413 or very early samurai
Its got sills like a SJ413, but flush repeater indicators like a Samurai.
never seen those flares before, but could be the plastic SJ413 ones painted.
Did Thailand buy the Suzuki spare parts dept?!
Do you have round or square heater vents in the dash?
Whats the chassis number? Should be stamped in the chassis rail behind the right front wheel
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Secret Samurai is slowly being exposed.

Wow.

Someone knows something!

Gee, thanks for the compliments guys.
They can all look good right after a wash I think. :)

I am just so glad you's were able to recognize different points.
If the 'princess', the 'queen'... & the humble servant hadn't been in the shot you could have had a better look.
I have to start taking more pics.

Right now it seems to sound like I have a hybred cross between a USA Samurai, & an Aussie SJ 413.
Is it okay if I refer to it as a "Samurai" for communication purposes?
(That somehow sounds more adventurous than a bunch of numbers & letters.)

Now that I seem to have it nailed down I will post an immediete "issue" I am having with it.
And no... from my corner it does not look like Thailand has any kind of parts, <sigh>.

Thank you again.

PS: Thanks for the extended effort in digging my pic up & inserting it properly for me BillJohn.
In future pics I will try to remember to bracket the URL address with the img inside a set of square brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Help... my front hub is leaking!

My left front hub is leaking,
It is wet, on both the outside & the inside.

2 miles from home the other night my 'Samurai' suddenly started making a clunking noise up front somewhere.
I slowed down & the noise dropped down.
I chose to hobble home at about 40 clicks.
It was reluctant to turn right into my drive ... & the clunking noise came right back up again.
Gentle braking was also causing it to pull sideways but we made it.
When I went to back into my little shop it was like I had a severe brake locking on, but I did get inside.

I would like to repair this thing myself but am flying totally blind.
Absolutely no manuals, but I do have a ready set of basic hand tools at my disposal.
Any advixe from someone who has been down this road before will be greaaatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance.


*Some added notes*

I found a tag behind the battery box that has some iID info that perhaps someone can interpet & translate...

type: SJ 51

chassis no: SJ 51

engine: G 13 A ( I think that letter is a 'G' ).

model: SJ 413 W

engine no: TH 110122

- This is a 1.3 liter engine (I do wish it had more 'umph', but more on that later).

- This vehicle has full time locked up front hubs.
I wish I could unlock but not set up like that.
I don't need (or use) 4 wheel drive that often & it would save me fuel money if I could unlock...
Also (I believe) would save on parts being worn that aren't being used anyways?

- manual steering.
I do wish to put power steering on it, but the budget says thats a very low priority at the moment.

- This vehicle has the steering wheel on the right hand side.

- Propane.
The 1st thing I did when I got it was make a bee line for the nearest LPG conversion shop.
That was an experience in itself, but with gasoline running almost 4 times what LPG costs, its the only way to fly... I think!

- I had to grin when someone asked me what kind of "heater vents" I have in the dash...
How do I answer that one...?

Living directly on top of the 8th parallel above the equator means vehicles in this neck of the woods don't even have a heater core (in most cases).
But, since I am sure you mean "air vents"... I can tell you that they are round. :)

Thank's again, & I hope I provided enough data this time? :unsure:
 

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I'm sure it was a reference to the shape... technically the heat doesn't switch to the dash vents anyway, even if you did have heat. If your front hubs are trashed I would replace the front axel all together. (that is if there were scrapyards with broken down samurai's in your area) Since there probably aren't any used parts available then rebuilding the front wheel may be your only option. If you're lucky its just a locked up brake caliper. The hubs are replaceable and you can put an aftermarket locking hub in the front. Make sure that the spline count is correct on the axel. The Warn hubs are a 26 spline count and they cost about $150-$200 USD for a pair of them.
 

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The hubs are replaceable and you can put an aftermarket locking hub in the front. Make sure that the spline count is correct on the axel. The Warn hubs are a 26 spline count and they cost about $150-$200 USD for a pair of them.
If you can find a stock replacement, it will be an easier repair. I have used both types of hubs and can tell you marked differences. The stock hubs are held in place with bolts and conical washers. The tighter you make them, the stronger they hold the bolts in place. The mounting holes in the hubs are also conical to make the system work.

The mounting holes in the Warn hubs are straight through, so you can't use the conical washers for extra hold. The stock bolts alone are really not strong enough to hold up against any moderate to extreme trails. The hubs are great, and can take some serious punishment. But if the mounting bolts start to loosen they will snap and the hubs wil just spin until they fall off.
Been there, Done that.

If you go with Warn hubs, I can show you a way to make them almost bullet proof. Otherwise, contact the Zook vendors for stock replacement hubs.
 

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My left front hub is leaking,
It is wet, on both the outside & the inside.

2 miles from home the other night my 'Samurai' suddenly started making a clunking noise up front somewhere.
I slowed down & the noise dropped down.
Clunking sound is probably a collapsed wheel bearing, also reason why you cant back up
Very loose wheel bearing could let the steering knuckle leak, and therefore leak on to the brake rotor thats why its pulling because that brake isnt working
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Where to start? Hmm

Well, well well... where to start?

I should say up front that...
"I have never allowed my ignorance on a subject to stop me from getting into deeper trouble".

While I am working on this, of course, I will look for local parts, but...

To date I have not had good luck with local shops.
They have, on several occasions, taken 2 weeks to do a 1/2 day job, & then it wasen't done very good.
They are very sensitive if you mention, point at, or observe on anything, regardless of how gentle you are in that effort.
I had brakes all done over a few months back.
At that time I noticed the inside of the hub was 'wet'.
I was promptly ignored after pointing to it & asking if they could fix that for me also.

I had the engine replaced 2 months ago. (after searching the whole country for one for 4 months).
Right up front I was advised to change both engine & transmission as a complete unit.
This advise seemed very strange to me but it came at me from everywhere.
I am now assuming they are all afraid of suddenly having to replace extra parts like release bearings or a worn clutch etc, that they have little access to.

This time I want to do it myself, but being very busy with my day job I fear it could easily take me twice as long as it takes them.

I think to start, I would like to ask if anyone has an exploded parts diagram of my hub / axle that they could send me?

I would like to drop the whole front axle & strip it down, (just so I can see whats in there!).
In reality I would really like to drop the engine, transmission & transfer case on the floor & give it all a good inspection.
But I have no torches, air, or impact tools.

To mail order parts into the country I am told I have to slip lots of "tea money" under the table to assure it gets here at all.
I'm also told the 'legal' government taxes can run anywhere from 100% - 400%.

Right now I am thinking my best bet is to bring old used parts to the many local machine shops, until I find one that says they can build up, repair, or machine new for me.

I do have friends that come through, (which is the best way to get things brought in),;) (I live hours away from world famous resorts), but that is sporadic & sometimes they don't even report in until after they have arrived! <sigh> :rolleyes:

I would love to go with those Warn Hubs, but I fear that is not apt to happen this time.

What I do have on my side is the sweetest little shop space anyone could dream of having.
26 feet X 26 feet, with a 16 foot ceiling. (I'm not going to complain about the big support post in the middle).
Walls & ceiling are concrete, & the ceramic floor is done in egshell white square tiles.

I built 2 nice little work benches from 3/4 inch plywood, from the shipping crates I originally built to move here in.
One of the 4 shipping crates was dedicated to a mechanics chest that was calculatedly filled with basic, every day hand tools.
Alas, some of the staples like vise grips & ratchets seem to have disappeared.
This seems to occur just after some of the locals have been around to admire my little shop :)

I also brought a chain hoist with me but hate the thought of sitting an A frame on top of this nice ceramic floor.

Right now I think I would like to start with an exploded parts diagram.

Can anyone help? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
strange...?

I got brave & started to take the left hub apart without a diagram in front of me...
(that is the hub that was 'showing oil' when the brakes were done, & the hub that was wet when I jacked it up in my shop.)

I got down to the bearings, & even have the axle sitting on my bench.

I was quite surprised at a couple of things...
- on 1st blush the outer & inner bearing, & seal, & splines look immaculate.
I somehow anticipated seeing / finding a ton of filings & chunks of bearing retainer, etc in there.

- I should add here that even though things seemed wet, the new rotor (& pads) were always dry & clean.

- The caliper does not seem seized & did come off quite easily.


I have observed that there is a 'big' ball at the end of the axle housing.
And I now see where there is a 'boxy' cast housing around that 'ball'.
Initially I was puzzled as to what those 2 little caps were on the top & bottom of that 'box' casting.
Shortly I ascertained they were the hinge pins that allowed the hub 'box' to rotate around the 'ball'.

Now is where I am coming to a question...
I was contemplating removing that 'box', but (to date) did not.
Closer inspection did show me a felt-like material on the back of that box that surounds the 'ball'.
It appears that this felt seal has been weeping oil onto the 'ball'.
This wet ball is what caught my eye, way back when.
I have to say that the 'ball' on the right side hub is not showing wet.


Anyways, to move on, right now I am somewhat baffled, as, like I observed, the bearings,splines, & wrist-knuckle on the drive shaft seem to be in excellent condition.

I am wishing I could remember which way it was pulling when I was touching the brakes.
I am starting to think it was pulling to the left... duh.

I do remember that the noise felt like it was coming from the right side, but I am equally aware that noise sources can easily & quickly fool you.
Now I am starting to wonder if, in my haste to blame the left hand side, is what caused me to "decide" that the prob must be on the left side?

Right now I am developing a couple of new questions in my mind...

1 ) - Could it be the that the problem is in the center... IE, in the differential gears themselves?

2 ) - Is it possible to take the axle apart at it's wrist knuckle, or is that a sealed / welded / pressed unit?

What I am getting at is... is it possible for me to divide both axles, & leave the long part of each axle on the bench until I can get parts (rebuild) the differential...
Is it possible to put it back together with just the short end of the axles only?

If I could do that, I could put it all back together & drive as 2 wheel drive only, until I get the proper parts?

What do you think?
 

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looks like a sj413 by the bonnet sj410 bonnet is flat looks like a long wheel base sj50 have a look on the suzistore web site it might help go into the 4 wheel drive section of the online shop and it might come up also send brian at suzistore an email asking about your 4x4 with pic he might be able to help more
 

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I have observed that there is a 'big' ball at the end of the axle housing.
And I now see where there is a 'boxy' cast housing around that 'ball'.
Initially I was puzzled as to what those 2 little caps were on the top & bottom of that 'box' casting.
Shortly I ascertained they were the hinge pins that allowed the hub 'box' to rotate around the 'ball'.
Those two caps have machined pins on the inside, they are called "Kingpins" and locate the kingpin bearings, which by the way can only get access to by removing the "Box thing" (Steering Knuckle). To remove steering knuckle first remove the small bolts around the tin cover holding the felt seal to the back, then remove the kingpins. Remember how the felt seal, rubber seal and tin covers go because you will need to replace these seals if it is weeping (should come as a whole kit (if you can get one!) the ball should be shiny steel to let the seals seal properly, if it is not then sand back the rust that builds up. Also remember which kingpin went at the top and bottom these should have thin steel shims underneath and can be added-removed to get the correct preload on the kingpin bearings.


wrist-knuckle
Wrist-knuckle - Constant Velocity joint, or "CV" joint

I do remember that the noise felt like it was coming from the right side, but I am equally aware that noise sources can easily & quickly fool you.
Now I am starting to wonder if, in my haste to blame the left hand side, is what caused me to "decide" that the prob must be on the left side?
Spin the right wheel and reach around and hold the axle shaft behind the spinning wheel, you should feel a vibration or rumble if the wheel bearing is stuffed.


1 ) - Could it be the that the problem is in the center... IE, in the differential gears themselves?
Ok now you got me thinking, it could be the pinion bearings in the diff but that usually makes a rumble you can hear in the cab not a bang. but they usually dont give trouble

2 ) - Is it possible to take the axle apart at it's wrist knuckle, or is that a sealed / welded / pressed unit?
Im guessing you mean CV joint on the axle? Not advisable for a DIY mechanic, they HAVE to go back together exactly as they came apart, and take special CV grease.


What I am getting at is... is it possible for me to divide both axles, & leave the long part of each axle on the bench until I can get parts (rebuild) the differential...
Is it possible to put it back together with just the short end of the axles only?
You should be able to leave the axles out as a whole (short and long) and still drive as the hub is supported by the axle tube on the knuckle. I have only dealt with manual lock hubs and am trying to think how yours work... has the hubcap with 6 bolts on the outside got a spline on the inside that engages with the end of the axle shaft? Im pretty sure it would, so leave the axle shafts out and put the hubcap on (to keep dust out) and it will still be driveable

Ok now that you have it all back together minus axles, there should be no drive to the front wheels in 4wd. But there will be drive to the front diff via the front drive shaft.
I would drive it down the road in 2wd and see if the noise is there, if it is then its in the wheel bearings etc. If not, stop, engage 4wd, and drive again. now the front driveshaft and diff is spinning, are you getting the noise now?
 
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