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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all, FNG here. I recently acquired a 1995 Geo Tracker 2DR 4WD SUV primarily for hunting as many of the trails I run need a 4x4. That and I can't get a deer on the back of my dual sport motorcycle easily AND, the wife won't let me take the AWD Volvo into the woods.:p

I did a lot of searching on tire sizes and types and have determined that the BF Goodrich AT T/A KO or KM2s will fit the bill. Because they are 215s they have a larger profile than the OEM recommended 205s. I've seen some posts where this has not been an issue and some where it has but nothing conclusive. This vehicle is completely stock with no aftermarket mods other than the PO put some stickers on it...don't stickers make it go faster?:D

So my question is, will I have to do any mods or, will the 215/75R15s fit with out any problems? :confused: Also, since I will use this both on and off road, which is recommended, the KO or KM2?

I like the look of the KM2 but not sure how well it will handle on-road as the hunt club is 2 hrs drive from me and I will drive this as a DD every now and again.
 

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I don't know about KO or KM2, but your car will handle the 215/75/15's with no problem, on the stock rims.
You can normally go up to 225/75/15 - although the stock rim is .5" too narrow for them, as per manufacturer spec (although that's what I ride with no problem). Some people have had rubbing issues with the 235's.....
 

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^ Bex is 100% right. I rand 215/75s for winter on stock rims before the rebuild, absolutely no rubbing or problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the responses. Any noticeable changes to steering and handling with the larger tires?

I am hoping to fix my belt squeal issue this weekend as well as track down the 'card in the bicycle spoke' sound from the left front wheel. I did discover that the PO had put electrical tape over the top of the clear instrument cluster visor to block out the check engine light that is on. :mad: Dumbass.

I'll run the OBD checks then re-set it later today. I need to run to Pick N Pull first to pull a window regulator motor and power antenna for my son's Honda Accord. Replaced his steering wheel and airbag yesterday to the tune of $50. Dealership wanted to charge the boy $1100.:eek: I have no confidence in them as the 'technician' didn't know that to change a front rotor on a 92 Honda Accord you have to...wait for it...'1. remove steering knuckle.' :lol: That was a royal PITA!
 

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Personally, I had no steering or handling issues going up to the 225's. The speedometer indicates about 4% slower than my actual speed, and the 225's look nice in the wheel wells (where I think the 205's look a bit small).
Regarding your bicycle wheel sound, do you have manual or auto hubs? Hopefully manual.....these need to be serviced each year. And remember, this car is part time 4wd - it should never be driven on dry surfaces with car in 4wd and hubs locked.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Personally, I had no steering or handling issues going up to the 225's. The speedometer indicates about 4% slower than my actual speed, and the 225's look nice in the wheel wells (where I think the 205's look a bit small).
Regarding your bicycle wheel sound, do you have manual or auto hubs? Hopefully manual.....these need to be serviced each year. And remember, this car is part time 4wd - it should never be driven on dry surfaces with car in 4wd and hubs locked.....
It is a 5 SPD Manual, no, I never drive on pavement in 4wd. I will get my factory service manual tomorrow and look up the servicing procedures for the hub along with some other minor issues. All in all, she runs very smoothly.
 

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... I did discover that the PO had put electrical tape over the top of the clear instrument cluster visor to block out the check engine light that is on. :mad: Dumbass.
I have seen MUCH worse... You have been PO'ed! :p

... that to change a front rotor on a 92 Honda Accord you have to...wait for it...'1. remove steering knuckle.' :lol: That was a royal PITA!
I have seen designs that you need to do that.... I own a few. While I understand why the design ended up like this, it is a very dumb design.

Similar dumb designs are all over the place... For my Malibu, the first step in changing the headlight BULB is: "Remove the front bumper." :eek:
 

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It is a 5 SPD Manual, no, I never drive on pavement in 4wd. I will get my factory service manual tomorrow and look up the servicing procedures for the hub along with some other minor issues. All in all, she runs very smoothly.
The FSM does not give any hub maintenance procedures. The question is whether your hub lockers are manual (you have to get out of the car and turn them) or automatic. If manual, there is a video in post #5 here that shows how to do the entire hub application:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/48360-bad-hubs.html
Or this write up is good just for the lockers:
Manual Hub Clutch Assembly
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The FSM does not give any hub maintenance procedures. The question is whether your hub lockers are manual (you have to get out of the car and turn them) or automatic. If manual, there is a video in post #5 here that shows how to do the entire hub application:
http://www.suzuki-forums.com/suzuki-sidekick-escudo-vitara-geo-tracker/48360-bad-hubs.html
Or this write up is good just for the lockers:
Manual Hub Clutch Assembly
Why doesn't this surprise me...:rolleyes: I'll take a look at the links and yes, it is a manual hub set up, you have to get out and lock them. I put her up on jacks today and discovered a plate between the gearbox and motor that, as an educated guess, protects the clutch assembly. Well, this is the source of the 'rattling' as it was zip tied onto the gearbox where bolts should be. The zip ties were pretty loose. Guess I'll do a temp fix job on this one just to stop the rattle.

I also checked both front wheel bearings, right is definitely bad and left is going out as there is a lot of friction when you spin her and you can here the bearings kinda grinding. This brings me to the next question, is there an alternative method to getting the nut off of the hub WITHOUT the $80 special spanner tool?
 

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Not properly or without running the risk of damage. You can often find the tool on ebay - some aftermarket companies as well, although there have been reports on difficulties with some of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Not properly or without running the risk of damage. You can often find the tool on ebay - some aftermarket companies as well, although there have been reports on difficulties with some of them.
I was afraid you were going to say that.:( Guess I'll go and find one since I plan on keeping this car for a while. I was watching a youtube video of a guy replacing a bearing on a 94 Tracker. He pressed out the race as well for the repair, is this necessary? I would assume if the race is torn up then you should replace it but I would rather not go through the hassle of pressing one out and then pressing a new one in.
 

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The FSM does not give any hub maintenance procedures.
It should be in one of the supplementary manuals but its often difficult to work out which one. Elsewhere in the world its included in the same supplement as the 1.9 diesel engine:

http://www.rhinoman.org/manuals/Vitara/A01251.pdf

Its not up to much though. The diagram isn't great and it just tells you to grease them lightly with lithium grease if they give any trouble.
 

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Also, since I will use this both on and off road, which is recommended, the KO or KM2?

I like the look of the KM2 but not sure how well it will handle on-road as the hunt club is 2 hrs drive from me and I will drive this as a DD every now and again.
I would recommend the KM2. I had sets of both the KO and KM's, both of them were excellent tires, however for off road driving the KM's were much better. A little louder on the highway but not too much in my opinion. I had about 60k on them. Two still had 9/32 tread, the other two were bald only because I ran them on the front axle while out of alignment for a while. The KM2 that replaced the KM should be even better, if that's possible.
 

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I was afraid you were going to say that.:( Guess I'll go and find one since I plan on keeping this car for a while. ....
If you are going to keep a TracKick for a while this might be a good thing to pick up... it looks to be fairly complete:
Kent Moore Geo Tracker Tool Kit J 37775 1A Professional Tools | eBay
(Kent Moore Geo Tracker Tool Kit J-37775-1A) it looks to be missing the brake bleeding adapter, but most kits do not have this.

I have two (incomplete) of these kits. Some of the tools are nice to have, but a lot are for things like transmission and differential work. Also year to year changes might change the tool needed for specific jobs... For example, I understand the "98 Tracker uses a different "nut" on the front bearings.

The tool for the front bearing "nut" is in the upper right corner. A tube with pins on one end.

OBTW: I changed the front bearings on my Sport without any special tools... I had to, it was broken down a few thousand miles from home! :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Manual Body bolt torque - 106 ft lbs?

OK, so I got the special tool for the locking nut yesterday and tore into both front hubs today. After pulling the wheels, caliper, rotors and manual locking hub assembly I was able to get the retaining washer off without a problem.

Then I put the tool on the hub locking retainer and...she spins easily BY HAND!:eek: BOTH SIDES! The FSM says they are supposed to be torqued at 155 ft lbs, these weren't even close!

Pulled both hubs, they came off way too easy, and cleaned them up and lo and behold, we have an issue with the left hub.
View attachment 31418
As you can see, it is a bit deformed. This makes getting the new seal in damn difficult! No, I ain't gonna replace the assembly if I don't have to. If I can get the seal in without damaging it then we'll keep going until next time I gotta do this.

So now to the question, FSM says the hub body bolts are too be torqued at 106 ft. lbs. Is this correct? This seems awfully tight for these small bolts. Can someone confirm for me? Last thing I want to do is strip these suckers in the hub.
 

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Double check that isnt Inch pounds, that would be 8.83 foot lbs..


.....Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Double check that isnt Inch pounds, that would be 8.83 foot lbs..


.....Philip
Nope. Per page 3C-9 of the FSM
"Tighten.
* Manual locking hub body bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb.ft.)

* Manual locking hub cover bolts tyo 12 Nm (106 lb. ft.)"

As you can see the second set of specs is off. 12 Nm is actually only 8 lb. ft. NOT 106 lb. ft.! Anyone got a Haynes or Chilton and can tell me what it says?
 

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Haynes and Chilton are noted for being mostly incorrect, beware..

I would use the 8'#, setting...

....Philip
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Haynes and Chilton are noted for being mostly incorrect, beware..

I would use the 8'#, setting...

....Philip
Never had a problem with Haynes or Chilton being incorrect, usually, they don't give enough info. I did the calculation to inch lbs and 12 Nm is 106.21 inch lbs soooo, I am guessing the lb. ft. is a typo in the FSM. I'll go with 8.

Before I finish that off though I'm gonna have to clean up the locking hubs. They have all kinds of grit and metal rust in them despite being covered in grease. It's like the PO drover her into a salt lake then let her sit for a salt bath.:huh: Guess i'll work on that today and then get it all put back together...in the rain.:( Not like I haven't worked in crappy conditions before, 30 years in the Army has had its challenging work conditions:D
 
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