Can anybody help with a possible electrical fault. Engine starts missing, rev counter starts twitching, then cuts out. All this happens when engine gets warm, but will restart after a few minutes, but then reoccurs after a few more miles.
Intermittent fault
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Still have problem with with intermittent fault reported earlier, Main Dealer has poo pooed idea of Cam&Crank sensors as the Inst pack lights dont flicker with these sensors faulty. Its getting worse now weather has warmed up, Main dealer cant help unless it breaks down completely. Is there help out there?
reply to your issue
Hi Les,
I had a similar problem with my 2001 ignis and replaced the Crank and Cam sensors. The problem went away after this. I was told by a Suzuki dealer that this problem described was the chip in the ignition key. A month or so later the problem returned and got more frequent as the weather got warmer. I got onto this site as I was reluctant to turn my car over to the dealer for a week at a potential cost of $300 just to find the fault. At least 2 other members registered the same problem on this site and I followed their threaded suggestions. So far the problem has not returned and it is a month since I got the sensors replaced. My mechanic showed me the crank sensor and pointed out a scar on the unit that he thinks caused the circuit to fail. Hope this helps. Wswitzer
Hi Les,
I had a similar problem with my 2001 ignis and replaced the Crank and Cam sensors. The problem went away after this. I was told by a Suzuki dealer that this problem described was the chip in the ignition key. A month or so later the problem returned and got more frequent as the weather got warmer. I got onto this site as I was reluctant to turn my car over to the dealer for a week at a potential cost of $300 just to find the fault. At least 2 other members registered the same problem on this site and I followed their threaded suggestions. So far the problem has not returned and it is a month since I got the sensors replaced. My mechanic showed me the crank sensor and pointed out a scar on the unit that he thinks caused the circuit to fail. Hope this helps. Wswitzer
... well poo poo the dealer. If the car has to break down completely then, in my opinion the dealer is not doing his job. A (wildly) fluctuating tachometer when the problem is occurring is the key. This indicates that the ECU can't determine engine speed and thus can't get the timing and injection right. The engine will sputter and eventually die.
The crank/cam timing is the one input that your engine can't run without. It will run without O2, MAP, TP and IAT inputs but not crank/cam timing.
Ensure positive connection for the cam sensor (gray with a right angled connector at the top right of your engine). The crank sensor is tucked away such that you'd have to access it from below the car.
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Is this a big job requiring special tools and can you btest existing sensors to find out which one is faulty?
You can test them but i don't think it is worth the effort. You can measure the impedance (don't have the values right now ) and see if the removed sensor produces a voltage in response to a magnet being passed in front of it. These are rudimentary tests to see if the sensor id 100% dead or not. A marginal sensor may pass when removed and is COLD but fail again when the engine is hot - the usual time.
No special tools are required to remove and replace. It is just that the crank sensor is tucked away in a spot that requires you move the alternator out of the way. It's not really a big job but it does make you wonder what the engineers were thinking.
PS: If you think the crank sensor placing is bad on the M series engines look where it is at on the J20A. The manual does make a statement about "if fitted". Sit down for this one - It is at the flywheel end of the crank and requires engine removal. Consider that engine removal also requires front diff and transmission removal ... When I get back from vacation I will post the relevant page from the manual for the M series and J20A engines,
No special tools are required to remove and replace. It is just that the crank sensor is tucked away in a spot that requires you move the alternator out of the way. It's not really a big job but it does make you wonder what the engineers were thinking.
PS: If you think the crank sensor placing is bad on the M series engines look where it is at on the J20A. The manual does make a statement about "if fitted". Sit down for this one - It is at the flywheel end of the crank and requires engine removal. Consider that engine removal also requires front diff and transmission removal ... When I get back from vacation I will post the relevant page from the manual for the M series and J20A engines,
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Sensors
Cheers Mate,
Many thanks for the advice. Have had a real struggle to get a workshop manual for Australian imported Ignis. Have a 2003 1.3L with about 240k on the clock. Just changed out gearbox and clutch, but the problem with it breaking down at highway speed after about 1/2 hr running has had me foxed. The local dealer only wanted to change all the EMS and needless to say I was not too happy with that!
Thanks again!
Doug
Cheers Mate,
Many thanks for the advice. Have had a real struggle to get a workshop manual for Australian imported Ignis. Have a 2003 1.3L with about 240k on the clock. Just changed out gearbox and clutch, but the problem with it breaking down at highway speed after about 1/2 hr running has had me foxed. The local dealer only wanted to change all the EMS and needless to say I was not too happy with that!
Thanks again!
Doug
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Hey, you look nice, hope we could be friends!
_______________________
Please contact me
[email protected]
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