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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
100747
100748
have some questions. Not sore what all has been done other than the lift, wheels, weber carb and some stickers. The clutch cable looks to be adjusted all the way down, and it doesn't feel like it engages or disengage until almost the floor. Is it worn out? What else should I look for on this sami?
 

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Not much we can tell you other than it looks nice & clean.

Regarding the clutch, on two of the three manual transmission Suzukis I have own, one of which is less than two months old, the clutch engages/disengages "until almost the floor" - it may not be what you expect or what you're accustomed to, but it's not indicative of a problem.

You should be able to download factory manuals at Ack's FAQ, download them and check the alignment of the release levers at both ends of the cable - there are a couple of dots that needs to be lined up - make sure they are correctly located on the splines and then adjust the cable to spec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After driving it some the shifter is sloppy. Hit 3rd instead of 5th sloppy. Just had to be careful after that. It floats at higher speeds. No sure what speeds cause the speedometer is definitely way off. Played with the clutch cable some and its improved. Still need to do some more. Not sure I'll ever be able to drive it to see my family 3 hours away
 

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After driving it some the shifter is sloppy. Hit 3rd instead of 5th sloppy.
Google "samurai shifter sheet".

Just had to be careful after that. It floats at higher speeds. No sure what speeds cause the speedometer is definitely way off. Played with the clutch cable some and its improved. Still need to do some more. Not sure I'll ever be able to drive it to see my family 3 hours away
I'd start with a visit to an alignment shop - not so much to have it aligned as to determine what the numbers are - it's a solid axle vehicle so only toe is adjustable, but, depending on how the lift was done, caster could be affected and insufficient caster will allow a fair bit of "vagueness" in the steering.

A Samurai will never be a comfortable long distance cruiser, so three hour road trips will always present a challenge, but, if there's a good 4WD trail at the end of the three hour drive, it's worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I doubt I will ever use this samurai for what it is good at. Like hills mud and rock crawling.
The lift on the rear is spring over axle and shackles. The front is spring over too, but not sure what else. Don't know what I'm looking for to be certain.
It needs better gearing too. But haven't decided on ring and pinions or transfer case.
I've still got to finish my other project car before I can get on this one.
 

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Just a suggestion - if you're not going to take it mudding & rock crawling, rather than re-gear it, consider returning it to stock or a little closer to stock than it is.

A spring over lift is probably good for 3~4 inches of lift, and it needs to be properly done or you'll lose quite a bit of stability, the steering especially needs attention to avoid bump steer and general vagueness which may be what you're describing as "floating".

I'm no Samurai expert, but take some pictures and post them, someone here will give you an idea of what's under there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
By float i mean, I'm cruising 60 on a straight road and all the sudden I'm a foot and a half in oncoming lanes
 

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There could be quite a few different reasons for that to happen, starting a gust of wind (Samurais aren't the most aerodynamic of vehicles and side winds do affect them), and perhaps ending with "bump steer", which is what I'd like to talk about right now.

Live axle vehicles like the Samurai have a tie-rod linking the front wheels, and a drag link to the arm on the steering box. In stock form the drag link is as close to horizontal (parallel to the ground really) as the manufacturer can get it, but on lifted vehicles, it's often at an angle, and the greater the lift, the greater the angle - the problem with this is, as the suspension moves up & down, to go over a bump, the "effective length" of the drag link changes and this can cause the steering to "twitch" - essentially the bump steers the vehicle rather than the driver, and that's where the term "bump steer" comes from.

There are ways to "combat" bump steer, and the person doing the lift can choose between doing nothing, moving the steering box end of the drag link down using what is known as a drop pitman arm, moving the wheel end of the drag link up using what is known as a "high steer" kit. From the picture you've posted, the Samurai does not appear to have a "high-steer" kit fitted, I can't see pitman arm clearly, it may may be a drop pitman arm, and there appears to be TWO steering dampers fitted, which I think is unusual, suggesting the previous owner may have had steering/stability issues.

Vehicle design is often a compromise, engineers compromise with accountants to keep the costs affordable, they frequently trade ride comfort for off road capability (just look around you at the "cross-over SUVs with all wheel drive rather than four wheel drive - you can even buy the legendary Jeep Wrangler Rubicon or it's less capable sister, the Wrangler Sahara), in a similar fashion, when we modify our vehicles we have to make compromises, we weigh ( or we should weigh) the pros & cons of our choices, generally speaking more lift = less stability unless we're willing to invest enough to correct the flaws our modifications introduce, and that can become a very expensive spiral.

My daily drive is a Grand Vitara, I chose to go with a moderate lift, dug a little deeper in my pocket for OME which I consider the best, and run just enough tire that re-gearing is not an issue for highway use (I have yet to make a decision on a "lower" low range). I've never owned a Samurai, I'm not against acquiring one to build a "toy", but good, unmolested one are rare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
I thought it was odd to have a stabilizer on the pitman arm.
Looks like stock replacement pitman arms have holes for a stabilizer. Maybe thats factory?
Maybe I should look into something different for the lift. Yj doesn't sound to bad.
Looked into many options. One company has a panhard bar and another recommends a 4 inch drop pitman arm. May just start over all together.
Looks like the options are a drop pitman arm, because this one isn't a 3 inch drop. Not even 2
A z-link. These seem to get mixed remarks about them.
Panhard bar. And drop pitman arm. These are probably the most likely options
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Pretty expensive options for a project I didn't plan on or even have a use for.
 
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