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Discussion Starter #1
2003 2.0 auto 4x4 Tracker almost overheated on my daughter. Towed home.
Flushed entire system. The flushed individually (heater core, block, rad.)
Tested t-stat, seemed slow to open. Bought new, same thing.
New radiator, water pump, t-stat, no apparent external leaks.
While at idle in garage, temp goes to and remains at normal range and has interior heat. Drive car for a mile or so and engine begins to overheat and I lose interior heat. Pull into garage and sure enough, lower hose is cool upper hose is hot.
New battery last year with me alternator. Replaced timing chain and valves (lapped) about 2-3 years ago with new head gasket. At a loss.......No engine codes.
Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How can I tell if the pump is cavitating?
Next thing to try is to take t-stat out and see what happens....
 

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How can I tell if the pump is cavitating?
Next thing to try is to take t-stat out and see what happens....
  1. Remove rad cap, watch as you raise RPM, do you have good flow? or,
  2. Use an IR gun and check temps fore and aft of the pump and thermostat..
 

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Head gasket leaks can result in overheating too.
 

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You can get a defective t-stat.
Did you test it in a pot of water on the stove?
Good insurance & easy to do, if the wife doesn't catch you.
Bottom hose cold seems to indicate bad t-stat.
Might have gotten lucky on the first test in the garage, removing it like mentioned would be the definitive test.

My 2 cents.
Don

.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I tested both the old one and the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
94945

So, I assume I have a flow issue but rather than remove the thermostat and semi block the radiator, I'm going to test this.
 

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View attachment 94945
So, I assume I have a flow issue but rather than remove the thermostat and semi block the radiator, I'm going to test this.
adding holes will add to overheating believe it or not. too much bypass and the wax pellet won't get hot enough to open the thermostat. Some have a single bypass hole with a "liggler" poppet so they seal, and only allow any trapped air to get out so the thermostat is fully immersed in water where there is a chance they may be in a location where air may gather.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just don't like the idea of taking the stat completely out and blocking the radiator so I was looking for a middle ground/compromise. That pic is of the old stat, I haven't tried this yet. I have marked the harmonic balancer to make sure when I'm under load (which is when the overheating occurs) that the balancer is not freewheeling and reducing power to the water pump.
 

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for the purposes of experiment you don't nee to block the radiator air flow. remove thermostat, start, do you have flow in radiator? yes, then pump is good. Bubbles? suspect head gasket.
Drive it for a day or 2, yeah mileage will be crap and no heater in cab to speak of but if it still looks like overheating, then you have bigger issues to chase down
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, harmonic balancer is good/no separation. Started in garage to normal operating temperature and waited until gauge stopped rising and stabilized. Drove it about 2 miles around the neighborhood and started overheating. Pulled back into garage with cold lower hose hot upper hose and recovery tank filled to the cap. Letting her cool down right now.
??????
 

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Ok, harmonic balancer is good/no separation. Started in garage to normal operating temperature and waited until gauge stopped rising and stabilized. Drove it about 2 miles around the neighborhood and started overheating. Pulled back into garage with cold lower hose hot upper hose and recovery tank filled to the cap. Letting her cool down right now.
??????
faulty thermostat, or its in the wrong way round?. Somethings blocking the flow path from radiator back to engine
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Both thermostat (and bolt, lol) are installed correctly.
Today I purged every hose and pipe individually to make sure no blockage exist. Even took the water pump off and purged block. Just put everything back together and I'm calling it a night. Will fill and bleed in the morning and try again with new thermostat. If that doesn't work, I'll try with thermostat removed. If that works, I'll try another (3rd) thermostat.
 

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If you are getting good flow (as Philip asked) and your replacement rad is good (I have had a bad new one in the past), and there really is no air trapped in the system, then I suspect a head gasket. Are there any bubbles in the rad? any milkiness under the oil filler cap? I once had a Rabbit diesel ( stop laughing) that had the same symptoms and at the end of the day it turned out to be a cracked head gasket.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Hard to tell about flow with brand new antifreeze after purging everything yesterday. No milkiness in or around oil filler cap. No bubbles while running with cap off. I'm currently bleeding system again after all the purging yesterday.
I have no SES light on but for the heck of it I wanted to see the actual temperature of the coolant so I hooked up my scanner and found that I have a P0117 code for "engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit low input".
Could this be the source of the problem or just a residual effect of no flow?
 

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Hard to tell about flow with brand new antifreeze after purging everything yesterday. No milkiness in or around oil filler cap. No bubbles while running with cap off. I'm currently bleeding system again after all the purging yesterday.
I have no SES light on but for the heck of it I wanted to see the actual temperature of the coolant so I hooked up my scanner and found that I have a P0117 code for "engine coolant temperature sensor 1 circuit low input".
Could this be the source of the problem or just a residual effect of no flow?
if bottom hose is cold, top hose is warm, sensor won't be the cause, but probably a symptom .
 
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