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A little mid range valve clatter. Downloaded the manual. Thought I would check the timing. I cannot locate the "Duty Cycle Data Link Connector". It's supposed to be next to the battery.
Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I was going to give that port a try. Two different manuals talk about a "4 port" and a "6 port" link. The 6 port manual stated 5 points of contact. Mine only uses 4.
Thanks, Lars
 

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I’m assuming that your ‘1986 Geo Tracker’ is a typo. So I imagine that this is a 1996. Is that correct? If so, you need to have a scanner (or at least a code reader) in order to get your codes. From 1996 on, the Geo is OBD2.
 

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I’m assuming that your ‘1986 Geo Tracker’ is a typo. So I imagine that this is a 1996. Is that correct? If so, you need to have a scanner (or at least a code reader) in order to get your codes. From 1996 on, the Geo is OBD2.
True, but even OBD2 needs a jumper to get static timing when you put a timing light on it.
 

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True. Regarding the original poster’s issue, he would need to jump the blue/red wired pin to the black wired pin in the diagnostic connector - immaterial if it’s 4 or 6 pin - it’s still the same wires that are needed to isolate the ECU.
 

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What I'm curious about is why would "mid range valve clatter" prompt anyone to check the ignition timing.
 

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Inexperience thinking clatter to be related to advanced spark induced ping.... or just plain guess work..
 

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I’m assuming that your ‘1986 Geo Tracker’ is a typo. So I imagine that this is a 1996. Is that correct? If so, you need to have a scanner (or at least a code reader) in order to get your codes. From 1996 on, the Geo is OBD2.
Had a hard time figuring out how to make my "Signature". Title of thread is correct. Thanks for the heads up. I have a scanner but there are no Codes to rectify.
 

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Had a hard time figuring out how to make my "Signature". Title of thread is correct. Thanks for the heads up. I have a scanner but there are no Codes to rectify.
Fixed Signature.
 

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What I'm curious about is why would "mid range valve clatter" prompt anyone to check the ignition timing.
Received this car in bad shape. Replaced Cam and Crank seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump,fuel regulator and rodded out the EGR system. After replacing the Timing Belt I wanted to check the timing. The EGR system was a clogged up mess. Clatter may be due to a carbon issue. Shade Tree mechanic since 1964 but I still have room to learn.
 

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True. Regarding the original poster’s issue, he would need to jump the blue/red wired pin to the black wired pin in the diagnostic connector - immaterial if it’s 4 or 6 pin - it’s still the same wires that are needed to isolate the ECU.
The manual I downloaded made no mention of "blue/red". The diagrams showed which pins to jump. The 6 pin diagram used numbers to show which pins to jump. The 4 pin diagram used letters to do the same. The port I used did not have one of the wires as indicated by the diagrams. My experience with Timing Smog Motors is varied. Some remove an existing jumper. Some move an existing jumper. Some use a jumper wire.
 

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Ah! but a Live Data Scanner would give access to all OBDII pids, which would put you at an advantage to chase down anomalies..
Great minds think alike. My scanner does have a Live Data Scan option. I was thinking of doing this as my next step. It's just something I rarely use because most problems are in my wheelhouse and easily (yeh right) remedied. The last time I used a live data scan was about 5 years ago on my fathers jeep. That's my next step...
 

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Inexperience thinking clatter to be related to advanced spark induced ping.... or just plain guess work..
Read on and learn. "When you ASSUME, you..."
 

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Slightly different than my wifes Xterra. Base timing was good, distributor was shot. All good diagnostics start with knowing the condition of the basics.
 

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Received this car in bad shape. Replaced Cam and Crank seals, timing belt, tensioner, water pump,fuel regulator and rodded out the EGR system. After replacing the Timing Belt I wanted to check the timing. The EGR system was a clogged up mess. Clatter may be due to a carbon issue. Shade Tree mechanic since 1964 but I still have room to learn.
You have timed cam correctly? very easy to get cam and ignition timing out by 180 degrees as many have found out
 
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